Linesidesonthefly Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 When we're faced with a tough situation at work we pack the areas susceptible to salt water corrosion with a grease by the name of Cosmoline. I'm referring to Submarines. International Association of Machinists and Aerospace Workers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianBM Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 Peter, Bocabearing sells a good many aftermarket bearings for spinning and conventional reels. The firm is widely recommended on the Main Forum on this site. Since they may receive few requests from fly anglers, I'd email them first. It's also possible that you can get the necessary dimensions from the Pate/Tibor reel site, but if not, I'd email them and then follow up by mailing them a bearing, to the attention of whomever you speak with in Customer Service. Keep us posted on how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linesidesonthefly Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 How bout a damn Zirk fitting? International Association of Machinists and Aerospace Workers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XBMX Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 How bout a damn Zirk fitting? Â OMG, think I have some right angled ones in my Farthers tool box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linesidesonthefly Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 Heck it works on bearing buddies! International Association of Machinists and Aerospace Workers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianBM Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Damn. What an interesting thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyQ Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Here are some pictures of the Hardy Fortuna 4X. I know its not a mako I did look at getting one but it was 1200 more the and a very long wait for the 9700B. The Hardy does also produce more drag than the mako(not saying its better) and is very well built. Reel has 900yrds of hatch 68lb backing with Rio Leviathan 550gr floating line. [img= http://www.stripersonline.com/content/type/61/id/1588462/] [img= http://www.stripersonline.com/content/type/61/id/1588464/] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Local66 Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Just me, but I'd have a hard time throwing down 800$ on a Chinese/Korean reel. "Talent does what it can, genius does what it has to" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 I've used anaerobic threadlockers for nearly 50 years and they never failed to maintain fasteners' tightness. Â Try some blue Loctite on those screws. Â If blue Loctite does not prevent the screws from loosening try the higher strength red Loctite. Â If you do use red Loctite try if first on some screws (and nuts) of the same thread and diameter as the Tibor's screws; a bit of experimenting will avoid applying too much red loctite to the reel's screws which could make their removal from the reel very difficult. Â I have to agree with lichum. When I read your comment about loose screws, my first thought was "anaerobic thread locker". I maintained the winch systems on several America's cup boats and if you want to experience shock, vibration, and continual salt water on a complex pawled drag system, those multi speed winches, gear boxes and drive mechanisms are it. We had to maintain thousands of parts and anything working loose would become subject to destruction in short order. The key to success with Loctite is prepping the surfaces with a solvent. The surfaces must be absolutely free of anything. Loctite provides a special purpose solvent but we found that in a pinch, parts washing and then rinsing with acetone to do almost as good of a job, provided we wiped the threads with a coarse clean cloth after applying the acetone. With this parts surface prep and either blue, red, or in some cases the "impact hammer required" green to keep things like ring gears and junction boxes fastened firmly through days of hard use and continual dousing by the salt. Whereas previously we'd discover loosening during our maintenance checks, once we went to this system problems in this area became almost a non-issue. As mentioned though, start with blue and work your way up or you can end up with a real headache. Â With regards to the bearing problems, you might try a Marine specific Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) grease. Moly is pretty resilient and will provide great lubrication under heavy pressure. A bit messy, but its use helped prevent galling problems on needle bearing posts of 17-4 steel that would sometime look like melted candle wax at the end of a heavy-air day of sailing. The MoS2 could withstand those pressures and continue to lubricate. Â Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ham Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 And about ball bearings again.... Those bearings with rubber seals on both side are the most suitable for salty reels...Theory says that rubber it's forced in outer circle and keep some pressure on inner circle, acting like an oil seal from car engine. One ceramic bearing without proper seal became pretty fast equal by zero with sand inside. Have to be also deep grooved for draw bar reels(for axial loading) and (not last) be able to find the right size... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ham Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Just me, but I'd have a hard time throwing down 800$ on a Chinese/Korean reel. This is what the people said about Sage 3300D-3600D and no one was able to broke one in many years...Maybe a couple of very powerful guys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Local66 Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 This is what the people said about Sage 3300D-3600D and no one was able to broke one in many years...Maybe a couple of very powerful guys... Â You should get out more. Issues with the spool release, drag stack, and handle were relatively common with that series. The new ones are pretty sick, but I'm still not buying one. As long as there are better reels being made on US soil, I'll have nothing to do with import reels. If a company wants to move production overseas to produce entry level tackle, I don't have a problem with that, but I'm not paying top shelf prices for a reel that cost 30$ to make. "Talent does what it can, genius does what it has to" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyQ Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 I have a 3600D landed a 100lb+ mako with it with no problems. Its a hell of a reel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HillTop Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Brings up an interesting question:  A recent trip to a local fly shop (Bear's Den) to do a little research asking questions about the most desirable reel features, the first response out of Scott's mouth was that buyers would ask if the reel was made in the USA.  A very refreshing statement by the way!  Curious for those involved in this thread, what importance do you place on your gear, fly reel in particular, being made in the USA?  Thx, HT Currently have aphasia.  Aphasia is a result of my head stroke causing a bleed.  Happened in my Maine vacation in July (2021).  Lucky me less than 1% of people get stroke aphasia.    I'm making project but have been told this is easily 5 months to 1 year for this to improve.  Until then hope you don't mind making sense with what I text.  HT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirdy Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Quote: Originally Posted by HillTop  Curious for those involved in this thread, what importance do you place on your gear, fly reel in particular, being made in the USA?  Thx, HT  None whatsoever.  I am not from North America, so I don't particularly care if my reels are made there. I don't have any problems with reels made in any part of the world: Asian, European or North American - I don't care as long as my reels do their job and don't cost too much.  I'll gladly admit some manufacturers are worse than others. The country of origin matters less than the commitment to quality.  Cheers, Graeme FFi Certified Casting Instructor  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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