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About HillTop

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    1,000 Post Club!


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Kayaking, Fly Fishing, Basketball, beginner rod builder, Fly Reel Design.
  • What I do for a living:
    Manufacture Precision Metal Stampings & Components & Assemblies

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  1. I understand the convenience for traveling as the world is a lot smaller now and what once was an exotic trip maybe not so much anymore but it's a shame that the value of two piece rods have dropped to the point you can't give them away. I probably have 12 to 15 Orvis graphite rods left me by my dad all two piece, except one, and are all in great shape. All 8 to 12 weight he used mostly for salmon fishing. Never used them all. With virtually no value I guess I should look for up and coming young fly fishers to possibly donate them to. BTW, I have the following 3 piece rod and the only 3 piece I've seen. It's an Orvis 10 ft 3 piece "Salmon" for a 9wt at 4-3/4oz. Must be fairly old as the ferrule construction is not integral to the rod blank. Appears to be new and never used. I'm assuming the rod industry just jumped over the 3 piece design and went right to 4 piece ? HT
  2. Bob, You can get up to 2,000 feet of chain on a spool if you're so inclined. A centuries worth of tying just go to ballchain (dot) com and have a ball. HT
  3. Chuck Fabio? I was thinking more like the actor Niki Smith Hope to see you there. HT
  4. Stopped by Capt. Ray Stachelek's tying booth at the Marlboro Show today. Capt. just happened to be tying Squid-sicles and showed me some of the finer points of tying this fly. I know have an original Squid-sicle of my very own to use as a pattern. Thank you Capt. Ray ! HT
  5. Not nearly as nice as anything posted to date as this was a quick tie experiment from last spring that was pretty simple. I wish I had tied more of these as I caught plenty on this fly and saw it get destroyed in short order. Body tubing is the Cyberlox Crin tubing available online for cheap money and used in ethnic hair styling. HT
  6. Hey Chris, It would be nice if those one-way bearings had the properties of titanium as titanium alloys have some very useful properties, including a high strength-to-weight ratio and excellent corrosion resistance, but exhibit very poor tribological characteristics. (ie: Tribology is the science and engineering of interacting surfaces in relative motion. It includes the study and application of the principles of friction, lubrication and wear. ) You probably won't get more than a Rc36 with titanium so it's relatively soft. The other thing with titanium is that it doesn't dissipate heat very well. Great for some things but lousy for others. HT
  7. Sorry, duplicate post after editing ?
  8. Thanks Esa, Having the correct tools for the job make things so much easier and much more fun ! In preparation of getting ready to test my yoga block machined blanks I experimented with another way to machine my rough cork and rubberized cork blanks to near finish sizes from my CAD model using the same CNC router instead of the way I did it originally with a lathe and Dremel grinder. With the right fixture I'm able to machine both the tapered outside and tapered inside, (ie: tapers in opposite directions), with just one setup / one fixture. When completed I'll have a way of easily making any cork combination for any grip from a master model where I can machine individual corks to close to finish dimensions in under 5 minutes per cork, ready for gluing. My video shows 2 roughing cuts and one finish cut but I was overly conservative with this setup. One rough and one finish cut should do the trick. I know Billy, the rod Guru over on the Rod Building Forum, suggested that, (paraphrasing), I'm silly doing it this way but I the sense of satisfaction I get from overall results makes it the right choice for me. I did an experiment with both a rubberized cork and a natural cork with this setup and results were very favorable per the video below. One nice aspect of prep'ing this way is that I can control the ID very closely, matched to the blank ID to control the gap and thus the amount of epoxy layer between cork & blank. Controlling the glue gap and eliminating voids from hand reaming will minimize excess epoxy on the two grips and I'm sure will negate the minimal increase that might be incurred in weight should I decide to build with composite cork from my yoga block. Once I purchase a new "lollipop" cutter with a longer shank I'll be able to tackle machining my new 1 inch long test composite cork blanks to see how this process works with composite cork.. With a total of 45 combination 1/2" cork and rubberized corks to get ready for my new TH build I'm excited to think that the grunt work might end up being a "piece of cake" for this build. HT CorkShaping_02.mp4
  9. Hi Killie, Thanks for posting this. I like the look and will continue with my experimentation for compressed cork composites to see where that leads. HT
  10. Mike, Bob was nice enough to get back to me. Basically what I had surmised, he found a source for natural cork and let the development of his compressed cork lapse. Per his PM. " I ended up finding a good source for floor grade and never went further with expanded cork. " HT
  11. Thanks Mike, The bottle I soaked in hot water a week ago is still pretty clear and viscous so it looks fine but yes the hardener has turned a little darker in color with time. I also found a small bottle of each of the LS Supreme but it's not the high build stuff. The hardener from these other (unopened bottles), appears to be the same color as purchased. For a test I may do a couple of wraps with either batch on a white or very light colored thread and coat with product from each just to see if the end results give me a different colored finish. In the overall scheme of things the cost is not that great so I'd probably opt to purchase a fresh batch for this next build. Maybe save what I have for coating flies/making Candy's..... HT
  12. GS, Not sure I'd ever tie up and fish one of these but I certainly give you a lot of credit for trying something new and innovative as my gears are always turning about how to do things differently and hopefully better. Question, for your large flies rather than tie each with a custom tail have you ever tried using the Brine Fly Pulse Disc ? I bought a kit but honestly never took the time to do much experimenting with them. I did find a way to make my own Discs that fished just as effectively (fly action) as the one's you buy so for cheap money I could make all I wanted but for some reason I just never followed through. These are some of the posts I saved about the Pulse Disc. In one even Bob Pop rates them highly. Thinking this might be a solution so you don't have to tie individual flies to get action but just apply a Disc in front of any of your large flies to impart additional action and push additional water ahead of the fly. HT Dan, Also when it comes to those tails, if he still frequents here you should PM CaptKenRoy as he seems big into this type of fly. He may be able to offer some insight as to what has worked for him. I know he was looking for cutting stencils and I mentioned when he found the holy grail design I'd cut one in stainless for him to use as a master.
  13. Sweet....Thank You!
  14. Ray. Nice SBS. Bg chance any photos to go along? Thx, HT