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About Hirdy

  • Rank
    Senior Member


  • About Me:
    Serious about fly fishing since late 2011.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Photography, cycling
  • What I do for a living:
    Geologist conducting seismic interpretation and geological modelling in the minerals industry

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  1. Two Gentlemen of the board right there. Great discussion guys.
  2. That's an interesting observation. It works for 11, 3, 4 and 5 weight lines. For the lines 6 through to 10, we need to add 1 to the result. For a 12wt, it's over. Not quite so consistent ... (And of course, it only works in any sense at all for an obscure unit of weight. Grains are what I eat for breakfast. )
  3. And what line weight are you making the leader for? Cheers, Graeme
  4. Good luck Gooner. I feel for you, having been through a similar journey myself. There were no instructors anywhere near me when I learnt. I would suggest learning with a lighter weight rod though. That rod is a bit heavy for the practice you'll be doing and you're very likely to injure yourself (e.g. tendinitis.) A used 5 or 6 weight outfit with a cheap double taper line is very useful for learning with. Cheers, Graeme
  5. This is not just hot air. You're on the right track here. It's pretty common to find the back cast straightening with a head wind and improving the subsequent front cast when the person casting is not normally fully on top of their back cast in windless conditions. The good news is that it means you're doing things just right on the front cast and you don't need to change much there. You can concentrate on improving the back cast now because that's the aspect that is holding you back. You're in a good place! Cheers, Graeme
  6. Maybe Sweden. That's a couple of years away yet, so I'll see where life takes me. I'm not far off the pace already but there's no chance of me seeing the podium. The cold ones sound like a plan though.
  7. I'm jealous Mike. Cheers, Graeme
  8. We had a "knot off" at our most recent club meeting. Triple and quadruple J knots were the unbeatable line-joining knots on the night. In many cases, the line was breaking before the knot did (we didn't know why that was happening). The J knot also works as a loop knot in situations where a bimini twist is ideal but too hard to tie in the heat of the moment. Cheers, Graeme
  9. So true. One just posted here! How are ya Cary? Good to see you back on the board.
  10. True, which is why it’s an estimate. Stiffness and diameter must be played with before we can predict a good outcome.
  11. I find it strange that people are following a formula without any reference to the line weight being used. In a good leader of this type, the butt section must be customised for the line weight. You're aiming to get smooth energy transfer by tapering the mass and stiffness of the line through to the tippet and fly, so we need to take the mass of the end of the fly line into account when making leaders. A fair estimate is to start at the line weight multiplied by 7 (for breaking strain in pounds), so for a 7wt line, try starting with 50lb line. A 9wt line may need a 60lb butt section and a 10wt line might be best with a 70lb butt section. As for knots, I use a J knot (or variations thereof) to join the sections. Cheers, Graeme
  12. And unfortunately, the early haul makes things worse, not better. People who haul early will spend years being frustrated not being able to get the distances or loop shapes they want. ------------------- I teach my students by making them watch their hands (instead of the line) when their problem is something they are doing with their hands. Usually it's early rotation. Their body movements are where the problem is occuring, not the line. Watch any person learn to play the piano or guitar: they will watch their hands very carefully. An expert musician almost never watches their hands because they are indeed playing by feel. Learning to cast by feel won't work for most students. Our reflexes are not quick enough to time the cast correctly without first anticipating when the transition from translation to rotation and the corresponding haul timing will occur. Reflexes are typically effective in the 0.2 to 0.3 seconds timeframe. Any normal cast takes about 0.3 seconds from start to finish. Watching is how humans learn. Only once we've done it correctly a few times do we get to feel what a good cast is and we can then repeat it. If we've never done it correctly, there is no reference to work from. Cheers, Graeme
  13. Hey, I know that bloke too. Here he is with 5 of his mates at the world championships in 2016. I have the exact opposite experience. Every good caster I know aims their back cast using their vision. I do it too most of the time. Cheers, Graeme
  14. Love it.
  15. RedGreen and BillHassen are correct. No problems with their explanations at all. How I teach people to alter their haul timing is to get them to lay about 70' - 80' of line out on the grass behind them and to slowly go through the motions of making a forward cast, watching their hands as they do it. Concentrate on a long translation phase (Bill called it a "loading move" above) with a very late rotation (Bill's "power snap"). Time the haul to occur as you switch from translation to rotation. Repeat on the back cast, where the timing of the haul is even more critical for my own casting style. Here's a video of the drill I give my students for improving the length of their translation and the timing of their rotation. Since the rotation and haul timing are linked, this also works for the haul. Do it like this but add a haul at the point of rotation. In the slow motion part of my video, that would be at 0.08 and 0.19. It is important to watch your hands in the drill. (Not when fishing though.) Cheers, Graeme