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Everything posted by HillTop

  1. Nice video Ray. My first ever Striper was caught on a worm fly that I tied during this program 3 or 4 years ago. Dave pointed my out to the same point in the opening of your video and I nailed two or three nice fish before the guys around me started catching. I still remember the adrenalin rush of this first Striper as the bass were sipping worms all around us. As exciting as a June may fly hatch with brookies and landlocks all around the canoe. You folks run a great program. Thx, HT
  2. Dan, What's the status of the club you started and are you meeting during the summer months (many do and have outings)? Have you established an e-mail list system is so I'll PM mine along for updates as would like to make it to a meeting or two at some point. Anyway, best of luck on your goals. Nice to have a sense of accomplishment while crossing items off a goal oriented To-Do list. HT
  3. Maybe Phil swift can use this SBS to make. New Flex Seal commercial
  4. Google is my friend By Tim Surgent One of the most versatile patterns I tie and the only pattern that I can completely say was entirely my design. Even that wouldn't be 100% true, I used the silicone techniques learned from some of Bob Popovic's patterns like the Silicone Mullet. This fly has not just taken a multitude of different species, but it's done so when most other patterns have failed to do so...that makes it special in my book. Personally, I've caught stripers, weakfish, bluefish, fluke, sundials, false albacore, bonito, Spanish mackerel, star gazers, and sea-run cut throat's on it...and not just one or two, but tons of each! I just made them available to the public about 12 months ago and hundreds of folks now can't be without them. Materials: 34007 hook, size 1 to 3/0 white bucktail - non flaring hair preferred peacock herl pearl flashabou or crystal flash silver mylar tubing for body silicone Photoflo 1/8"-3/16" prism eyes, silver w/black pupil Start the thread just forward of the bend of a 34007 hook, size 1 to 3/0. I prefer white or clear monofilament thread. The monofilament doesn't make as neat a finished head as the white thread, but it does look nice. Wrap a small, fairly straight bunch of white bucktail in at this point. Make sure to keep the hair on top of the hook and tie it so as not to flair the hair. Trim the butt ends flush and wrap over them so as to not interfere with the mylar tubing for the body. These hair should be should be about double the length of the flat part of the hook. *You can either add two pieces of flash on each side of the tail now or you can add them just prior to the peacock herl step. Take a proper length piece of silver mylar tubing with the cotton core removed and slide it over the hook so the rear of it reaches slightly past the thread wraps for the bucktail. Carefully make 4 or 5 wraps over the tubing as shown in the photo to the right. Whip finish at that point and cut the thread. Restart the thread at the head of the fly on top of the mylar tubing. You will twist the mylar tubing in doing this, just twist it back once you get 4 or 5 wraps on it to hold it in place. Trim the mylar that will extend beyond the thread taking care to never let your materials clutter up the eye of the hook. This is a full view of the fly up to this point. Note that all materials are on top of the shank and the head is neat and the eye clear. That's all important. One of the keys to this fly is that the shiny silver mylar body shows through the silicone unobstructed...just like it does in a real spearing. For an even more realistic spearing, you can pull and shape the mylar body before tying it...but that's an advanced step, don't worry, they'll eat this one fine! ;-) If you were looking to add another color to the fly, add it here, before the herl! I like olive sometimes...just a little. I suppose yellow, pink, chartreuse, blue, or green would work. Keep all materials on the top! This is a full view of the fly up to this point. Note that all materials are on top of the shank and the head is neat and the eye clear. That's all important. One of the keys to this fly is that the shiny silver mylar body shows through the silicone unobstructed...just like it does in a real spearing. For an even more realistic spearing, you can pull and shape the mylar body before tying it...but that's an advanced step, don't worry, they'll eat this one fine! ;-) If you were looking to add another color to the fly, add it here, before the herl! I like olive sometimes...just a little. I suppose yellow, pink, chartreuse, blue, or green would work. All set for the peacock herl. Now for the peacock herl or topping. I have always used and will likely always use real peacock herl. Yes, it's probably one of the most frail materials regularly used. It's also the one that is absolutely magic. Peacock herl isn't one color, it's many - from blue to olive to metallic green to drab green and brown...and when wet, the tiny fibers come to life. I tie 90% of my flies with peacock herl and I've seen many flies stop working once the herl is gone. Lay 6-10 pieces of herl, somewhat evened at the tip end but not so much that it loses the taper. Tie them in on top of the flash or bucktail...keep them on top of the hook. Clip the butts of the herl neatly. Wrap over the butts with the thread to make a nice neat head, whip finish and cut the thread...this one's ready for the silicone! All done tying, now for the silicone! **There are many types of silicone out there, I prefer DAP or Cinch....but Cinch is an expensive aerosol, DAP is fine. Working with silicone is not that difficult...it's not easy, but it's also not difficult. You must use something to keep the silicone from sticking to your fingers, if it sticks to your fingers, you'll never get the proper shape. I prefer Photoflo, it's available in any camera/photography supply store. I think it's about $8-$10 a bottle. Don't let that scare you, I've had my original 16oz bottle for about a dozen years now, it lasts. Dish soap and water will work I'm told, but for less than $1/year, I'll take the Photoflo! So, you put the Photoflo in a jar large enough to stick a couple fingers in so you can reapply when needed...and now you start applying the silicone to the fly. I generally put the silicone right on the fly as shown here. A little silicone on one side and the top... Then I'll put some silicone on the other side of the fly as shown here. Then dip your fingers, I dip my pointer and middle finger and then rub those together with the thumb on that hand...those three fingers are all you will use. The first thing I do is lift the herl some and then squeeze the silicone from both sides of the fly into that area...then put the herl down and begin shaping the spearing. This is where you'll need the trial and error lesson. You're trying to make this thing look like a spearing from the sides, from the bottom, and from the front. Shaping it is up to you. I don't let much silicone get beyond the hook bend, just a little to help with fouling on the cast. and a little silicone on this side.... Here's the finished shape that I shoot for. This one actually is far from perfect, but the general shape is good. At this point, stick an eye on each side and poke it slightly into the silicone with something sharp like your scissors or bodkin. I like my eyes placed just behind where the thread wraps are visible under the silicone and slightly above center. Dip your fingers again, lightly, and smooth over the silicone covering the eyes. Now smooth the whole fly again...you may even have to reshape it some, depending on how well the whole eye application went. That's it, you're all done, now keep it away from the bluefish if you can! Now it's time for the eyes!
  5. Does anyone else get the "Link Not Found" message when clicking on the SOL link in Gilbey's post at the top of this thread? HT
  6. All, Thank very much for your nice compliments. This was my first attempt at a shrimp fly and I guess I'm hard on myself but I wasn't overly happy with the results and plan to change up a few things on my next attempt. I think the silly legs are out of proportion and I'll try something a little smaller in diameter next time. maybe try to make it a little more translucent as well. FYI for the mouth area between the silly legs I tied in a small amount of Cortland mono braid and picked it apart with a bodkin and I did the same for the under legs, using 50lb Gudebrod braided mono, where the fibers are a little larger in diameter than the Cortland braid. I made up my own shrimp foils by printing a pattern on our color copier using overhead transparencies paper. (mylar sheet). I've got a number of different colors to try for my next go around. Salvadore, Never fished shrimp flies so not sure what is the best hook size. I wouldn't think that a 4 would be an issue as one night last spring when our group was fishing with the @The Fisherman he was having great success with very small flies about that size, with bass slurping on the surface and assuming now they may have been shrimp. HT
  7. My feeble attempt at shrimp flies last year. Forgot t to use them as they got buried in my gear. I believe I tied them on a size 2 hook. Maybe this spring. HT
  8. I've never fished a sinking line before but would like to try doing so this spring for a couple of crab patterns I've been playing around with. Wondering if anyone who uses a TH'r who throws any significant grains has an opinion on the SA Deepwater Express Shooting Head? My TH casts quite well with between 550 & 650 grains, I tend to like it on the heavier side. There's a particular stretch of water with a very sandy bottom that we fish each spring that rips pretty well at mid-tide and in some places there's some decent depth involved. Rather than putting a ton of weight on my fly I'd like to have a sink line solution to keep fly weight reasonable. Recently saw the SA Deepwater and thought this might work. Obviously with a sinking line, especially a fast sink, I need to strip more into the rod before I unplug to start my cast so my typical 34' - 38' foot head may be too long. In this instance thinking that I should go with the 700 or 850 grain line and per the instruction chart, (cut to match rod), included with the line, trim to an acceptable casting grain weight whereby I can reduce the head length to a more manageable casting length, in essence killing two birds with one stone (appropriate grain weight to head length ratio). Since I have no experience with a setup like this does this sound like the right approach ? This is the line in question. HT
  9. @flyrad10, to answer your previous question it's the PowerPro Hollow Ace product that I'm using. Yes I've read quite a few of Max Garth's posts on the subject over the years. I'm not overly concerned with the grit aspect as 1, the dilution of Liquid Fusion coating fills some of the materials pores, 2, I have SIC guides on my rod, and lastly, I unfortunately don't get to fish that many days during the season so any guide erosion is going to be minimal if at all. I built my own rod so if I have to I'll replace the guides. This is something I've always wanted to try as I like to tinker and I wanted it for use with a sink setup and since I'm going to be purchasing either a fast sink head or some of the T17 material to experiment with why not go the full monty and get this out of my system. Will be doing it in spite of the ridicule from one of my spring fishing companions. HT
  10. No you're right and I'm wrong. Not mono core just mono. Has some neat qualities but after using it for awhile I liked it less and less. Maybe I need to give it another try. They say virtually no memory but I found if I didn't stretch it enough I didn't like the way it behaved. Hey, once in awhile even a blind squirrel finds a nut. I keep trying things and once in a blue moon I hit on a good one I'd be a long shot in Vegas though. Can't have another kid (tubes tied), too old to adopt, I already work 55 hrs a week so I guess it has to be special brownies for me. Can you bake a batch for this spring? HT
  11. Mike Techno Devices are here to stay, and by the way, bread and jam are out! Too much Gluten and too much Sugar. You have to get with the times my friend
  12. Thanks for the heads-up on the meeting....... Now you probably understand why I don't sleep at night...... HT
  13. Dan, I'm experimenting with a custom running line right now. I like the OPST Laser line for how well it shoots but have had some difficulty with it easily tangling and knotting up. It's mono core and should be stretched before use but I'm usually lazy and don't stretch it like I should but it's got some body to it and it flys through the guides better than a conventional running line. My custom experiment, done on only on a couple feet of material so far, is taking 20lb monofilament folding it over and twisting it like is done to make twisted leaders (similar to furled leaders). This method takes the set out of the mono and the mono tends to want to lay nice and flat/straight. Also by twisting the mono it tends not to take much of a set after being spooled on your reel. Really nice for leaders too. I then take the twisted mono and using it as the core in for 200lb Spectra Braid, (by PowerPro), I'll stuff the braid with this twisted mono. It fits nicely inside the Spectra Braid which has near zero stretch as it's selling point. Then I just smooth out the Spectra, whip a couple of loops on either end and then I coat the entire braid with diluted Liquid Fusion penetrate and to seal the surface (fill the pores to minimize grit accumulation and keep it smooth). I love the initial sample I did. It has some nice rigidity to it yet it's flexible enough to be somewhere near the Laser line in structure but tends to want to lay straight due to the twisted mono. The finished diameter is about 40 mils. (0.040") Comparable to many commercial running lines. Planning on making up a full length runner this weekend of ~ 100 feet to see how it casts. The other idea I played with for this setup is after I finish the line per the above, I then twisted about 15 feet back on itself in a like fashion to making the twisted mono, in essence doubling the diameter and using this new 15 foot end as my "handling" line, (ie: connect this end to my shooting head), since I strip my shooting head in to just outside my tip top this will give me a more manageable line for casting, ie: a better grip (due to the larger diameter), and tactile feel (braid is now twisted, having a textured feel ), for handling the line prior to shooting my next cast. If I can get this done this weekend and it looks promising and if I can find the time to also get over to your meeting next Wednesday I'll bring it along. HT
  14. Okay, another question regarding fishing deep and needing fast sinking lines to bounce flies on or near the bottom. When selecting a line setup does one take into consideration the weight of a fly when said flies intended to be fished are very large and/or heavily weighted ? ie: Should the grain weight of the fly be taken into consideration with the grain weight of the shooting head when talking about cast-ability and keeping grain weight near an optimum weight for your rod "sweet" spot ? Or, in other words, go with a lighter line to compensate for throwing heavier than run of the mill flies like Deceivers, etc. HT
  15. Yeah thought about buying some T material to play with but can't get the grains to length ratio I'm looking for and like the idea of the heavier UST lines that have some taper to them thinking they would cast better. Being able to trim them a little to fine tune is appealing as well. I think worth the investment to experiment with. HT
  16. Mike, I suspect you know the stretch of water we fish that might be fun to bounce a crab along. That water is pretty deep at the beginning of the trek but thins out in some places to maybe 5 or 6 feet deep. Current can rip pretty well there and as evidenced by some of the sand pockets you see at low tide thinking possibly a good spot to pick up a few fish with crab flies. HT
  17. SS, Not sure I understand your logic. If a rod casts well with with "xx" amount of grain weight for a given length of head why would it cast better with a sinking line at a significantly lower grain weight just because it's a full sink? If anything a sink line is typically smaller in diameter, offers less resistance to air when casting and on a very micro level, should load the rod less not more. Needed grains that a rod handles well are just grains and the type of line, floating, intermediate, or sinking should make no difference if I follow what's been preached on this site over the last few years. Can you explain the physics of your statement ? Thanks, HT
  18. Actually those are the larger Valentine Classic models, Model 400 Anti-Reverse. HT
  19. Good Luck tomorrow Dick, hope all goes well and wishes for a speedy recovery. HT
  20. @Crazy, This can also happen when you wind your line onto the spool with very little tension and then apply more tension later in the retrieve and bury the line under the looser wraps. Another possible cause is winding the line tapered on one side of the spool and then because of the height mismatch the line on the high side slides down over the other wraps causing this same type problem. HT
  21. @Graveyard Shift, Can you show me a photo of how you incorporate a rattle in your crab flies ? I can't visualize doing so unless it's a really large crab fly or fairly small rattles. Thank you. Also I can't see where your technique of deadsticking for 30 seconds gives you a corresponding rattling action on your fly for 30 seconds. It's just hard to imagine that shaking the rod tip will transmit like energy all the way down the fly line, leader & tippet to actually move the fly any appreciable amount. Once you start the technique you've probably moved the fly initially, set slack in the line and subsequent shakes probably don't affect the fly, at least as how I'd visualize it. Having never done this it's only an uneducated guess. I think I'd want to try it parallel to the beach somewhere with varying lengths of line out to see if I could actually see the end result for the applied effort. Now short quick strokes of your line, yes I see that as activating the rattles. This is one of my re-purposed rattle/hook combinations from a crease fly that got destroyed and one of the few rattles that didn't break. I like tying these on a popper hook as the offset bend allows angular placement of the rattle so the balls run up the ramp on a quick strip movement and then gravity does the rest. Noise easily verified by holding this in my hand resting on the desktop and quickly moving my hand flat against the desk in a quick linear fashion with an abrupt stop. Sound is quite evident. I try to place all my rattle in a like angular fashion to take advantage of the stripping motion. HT
  22. SF, Just about what I'm going to do. I have a few hundred 6 inch long very thin walled (only .005" thick) Stainless tubes that are the same diameter as the large Pyrex Rattles (5/32"). Had these at work for a project that never took off. I think for a given length the SS tubing is actually lighter than the Pyrex but much stronger. Found a discount ball bearing store online where I can buy oddles of all size stainless ball bearings for about a dime each in 100 pc quantities. So I've ordered up 2 different diameters and will start testing when they arrive. Nice thing is I can make a rattle as short or long as I want (entire hook shank on inverted fly possibly). I'm thinking the sound, metal on metal, will be better than the Pyrex but time will tell. If this works I'll have a lifetime of rattles at my disposal and eliminate the breakage problem. HT
  23. Cool, a lot of $$ in flies there. May I ask what is in the bottom of the fly boxes to hold flies in place? Haven't seen that system before. HT
  24. Unless you're in back of a shrimp trawler I suspect the best way is by chumming. We did that back, I think in the 80's with a Captain Dave Prebble out of Snug Harbor in RI. A very knowledgeable captain who did a lot of shark charters. I believe he wrote a number of articles on shark fishing, etc. I've done it twice with him and we ended up about 8 miles east of Block Island chumming for a hour or so and then next thing you know there's dozens of blue sharks all around the boat. Not used to that and at first it was a little disconcerting bobbing around with no where to go with that many sharks. We caught dozens of sharks one trip, averaging from 8' to 10' in length. A decent tug with a couple of 100 yard runs each but then that's where the fun ends and the battle begins. My largest, about 10' took me an hour and 15 minutes to bring to gaff and I spent the rest of the day sitting on the bridge watching everyone else fish. Method was chumming with 4 to 5" strips of chum and then fishing with white streamers/deceivers of about the same length. Sharks don't appear to be too swift and you didn't need much for movement to entice a take. Fun for the experience but not sure I'd to it again. Found these photos in my desk drawer. Phone shots of 4x6 prints. Myself and my dad (since passed). Some great memories fishing with him. HT
  25. Ferret, I'm working on a shatterproof solution now. Have ordered up some materials and once I build and test I'll post here. The Pyrex rattles make a great sound but every fly I've tied with one the rattle has broken after less than a half dozen fish no matter what technique found and used to secure them to my flies. Nature of the glass I guess. If my idea works I'm hoping they'll be virtually indestructible. Primarily looking at the larger size for large Crease / Poppers and large nighttime bait fish imitations. HT