Deactivate auto bail trip on Clash and Slammer

[LI_Angler]

I have a Penn Clash 4000 and a Penn Slammer IV 4500.  Both have auto bail trip features.  Since I always flip the bail manually, I am wondering if there is a way to deactivate the auto bail trip mechanisms in these reels.  If so, is it also reversible if I decide to convert back?  As it gets colder and the off season has arrived for me, if it is not too difficult, I'd like to try this as an off-season project for next year. 

I had posted this in the main forum but an SOL member suggested posting here as you may be able to give me the specific part identification from the schematics for these reels that I'd need to remove/modify.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks.

 

[PENN Fishing]

Hello,

 

For the Slammer IV, you can remove #1E and it will convert to manual bail.  You can also remove the #28 trip lever, however it will throw a little bit of a wobble in the rotor.  

 

 

 

For the Clash. I assume you have a first gen and if so you have to remove the #28 trip lever because there is no body slope to be removed.

 

 

 

You can put the parts back and convert to auto any time you wanted.  

 

tony 

[LI_Angler]

Thanks Tony.  My Clash is a first gen so I should be good with these instructions.  I found a YouTube video showing removal of the body slope on a Slammer III, so between your detailed instructions and that video, looks like this shouldn't be too difficult.  Thanks again.

[Nabobish]

Tony, it appears to be the same process on the Clash II 1000, as the Clash 4000... is that correct?

 

Thanks in advance,

M

[PENN Fishing]

M,

 

Looking at the schematic, the Clash II 1000 also has a 1E body slope that can be removed.  

 

tony 

[Nabobish]

Thanks, Tony!

 

Happy Thanksgiving,

M

[LI_Angler]

On 11/16/2023 at 2:26 PM, PENN Fishing said:

Hello,

 

For the Slammer IV, you can remove #1E and it will convert to manual bail.  You can also remove the #28 trip lever, however it will throw a little bit of a wobble in the rotor.  

 

 

 

For the Clash. I assume you have a first gen and if so you have to remove the #28 trip lever because there is no body slope to be removed.

 

 

 

You can put the parts back and convert to auto any time you wanted.  

 

tony 

So I made this modification and it went well with one caveat. Once I removed the trip lever and reassembled,  I felt like the rotor was a bit out of balance. Not quite a wobble but almost.  It was enough that I restored the trip lever and the rotor seemed to rotate much more smoothly.  Maybe it was something I did improperly?  Regardless, I think I'd rather the smoother rotor rotation and deal with occasional inadvertent bail trip which I can probably mitigate by more careful casting and paying more attention to my casting mechanics.

Haven't tried the Slammer modification yet. I am a little hesitant, but the modification for that is not to the rotor, so I suspect it may not induce any such issues.

 

Thanks.

[flies-n-plugs]

I removed the trip lever in my first generation slammer 360 and detected a wobble as well.  I ground the short end off the arm, reinstalled it and the noticeable wobble was gone.  IIRC, I ground the rotor end leg off of the trip lever.  Never another unintended bail trip.  Still love that little beast.  Did break a couple teeth off the main gear, so need to replace that, but that little 360 has managed 40” + fish easily 

[KennebecJake]

On 11/5/2023 at 1:09 PM, LI_Angler said:

I have a Penn Clash 4000 and a Penn Slammer IV 4500.  Both have auto bail trip features.  Since I always flip the bail manually, I am wondering if there is a way to deactivate the auto bail trip mechanisms in these reels.  If so, is it also reversible if I decide to convert back?  As it gets colder and the off season has arrived for me, if it is not too difficult, I'd like to try this as an off-season project for next year. 

I had posted this in the main forum but an SOL member suggested posting here as you may be able to give me the specific part identification from the schematics for these reels that I'd need to remove/modify.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks.

 

Is it possible to damage the reel if someone repeatedly closes the bail manually? (without disabling the automatic feature?)

[LI_Angler]

On 5/7/2024 at 7:48 PM, KennebecJake said:

Is it possible to damage the reel if someone repeatedly closes the bail manually? (without disabling the automatic feature?)

Interesting question.  I am not sure why that would be the case.  I  think there is less impact when manually closing a bail with an automatic closure feature than letting it happen it automatically.  However, I am certainly no expert (don't even qualify as a novice in some cases  ) so that is simply conjecture on my part.

 

I hope one of the Penn reps sees this and can provide a qualified response.  It would certainly be good to know since it would be an important consideration.  I will add that I have a Slammer and Slammer DX.  The more I use them and do not experience unintended bail trips, the more I shy away from attempting the modification.  Hate cliches but, "If it is not broke..."

Edited May 15, 2024 by LI_Angler
clarity

[bellows]

How would this be done with a Battle 3?

 

Thanks