PENN Fishing

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About PENN Fishing

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    1,000 Post Club!


  • About Me:
    A proud supporter of Stripers Online to answer any questions about PENN products and provide service
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Helping Stripers Online members with service. Send us a PM and we will be happy to help.
  • What I do for a living:
    Design and manufacture high quality fishing gear for saltwater anglers.
  1. Bluetail, The dog acts as a backup, in the event the main A/R fails the dog and ratchet kicks in. tony
  2. Vee - our European division is planning to launch the Battle III in a long-cast model, but no plans to bring it to N. America at this time. For now, in N. America, we offer 2 long-cast models....a super light model in the Conflict II, and the heavy duty IPX5 sealed Spinfisher VI. Mike
  3. Buckeye, Buying a new reel is always a good option but we are still open and doing repairs in Philly as well. tony
  4. Asrod Is correct. thanks tony
  5. Hello, Yes you can, you would use the Battle 1 part numbers. tony
  6. RCH, Unless you have a line roller failure within the warranty period we are not upgrading at no cost. This was a running change and see link below for more info. thanks tony We are constantly working to make our designs better, and in doing so we make minor changes like this from time to time. Most of the time it is so minor nobody even notices. That being said we saw that in a few rare cases, and under extremely high drag the bushing wasn't working as well as we would have liked. I'll reiterate that this was on extremely large fish, extremely high drags and isolated events. We made the determination to go ahead and make the change to ensure it was the best product out there. Nothing wrong with bushings, in fact in a line roller they are a good option, contrary to what a lot of people think, and we use them in many reels. But being that we are always working to ensure we have the best product out there, we made that change for the Slammers. Nothing wrong with the reels that are already out there with the bushing.
  7. cman - We spec'd these reels for the majority of fisherman with how they fish bait with current, but we included a tool in the box for situations like this. There are 4 settings, that gradually increase the pressure, and they correspond with 25/50/75/100% of the LL drag pressure. If you unscrew the butt cap of the reel (counterclockwise), insert the tool into the two slots and turn counterclockwise. This will lighten the pressure of your LL settings, and test as you are adjusting it. Be careful not to go too far though, as that piece can unscrew completely and expose other internal components. Be sure when putting the cap back on that it is very snug so there is no chance of it coming off while fishing (there are also a few seals that help hold it securely). There should also be a description on how to do this in the owner's manual that came with the reel. Hope this helps, Ben
  8. Really hard to say without feeling it first hand. I would wait until your fishing season is over and send it in unless the reel becomes inoperable, the reel has a 1 year warranty so you have plenty of time. tony
  9. Guys, Pure Fishing acquired Van Staal earlier this year and we just moved the parts from Oklahoma last month to Philadelphia. At the same time we have moved the email and phone number over as well and have had some technical difficulty with the transition. Our IT team is working on it as I type this just please bear with us as we complete the transition. In the meantime, if anyone needs to purchase VS parts we recommend reaching out to one of the 5 VS Warranty Centers or send me a PM with what you need and if we have it in stock we can sell it direct to you. Once the phone and email issue is resolved you will be able to call/email in your parts order and a Customer Service Rep will be able to assist. thanks tony
  10.   On 7/20/2020 at 8:53 AM, PENN Fishing said:



    The stiff bail is on purpose to prevent premature bail flip when casting.  If you wanted to loosen it up you could remove the #28A rotor brake or if you wanted to make it manual bail you could remove the 1E body slope.  If you remove the brake your bail will most likely trip when leaning into a cast.



    Thank you, tony. However it is stiff enough to stop the reeling when retrieving. It trips about 60% of the time - IF the spool turns more than half way in its rotation before triggering the bail. Otherwise it will literally stop the reeling process. It has improved some since I greased it but I don't want to damage the reel by reeling HARD and FORCING the bail to close. 


    Is this something that will correct itself with use?

  11. hhager, The stiff bail is on purpose to prevent premature bail flip when casting. If you wanted to loosen it up you could remove the #28A rotor brake or if you wanted to make it manual bail you could remove the 1E body slope. If you remove the brake your bail will most likely trip when leaning into a cast. tony
  12. Peter, We no longer have the 705z emblems but we do have 704z or 706z if you wanted something on there. tony
  13. On the Rocks, We do not make a bailess kit for the Battle II. If there are any out there they are custom or aftermarket. tony
  14. Joe, I would remove the handle and bearing cap, drop a few drops of oil on the 2 bearings and also a few drops on the spool shaft. Then apply a light coating of grease. Hopefully the bearings will loosen up for you. You can still send it in later in the year. tony
  15. Joe, The Clash II was designed from the ground up to be fished inshore. Saying that, you can still use it in the surf but it definitely can not take a splash without immediately servicing. One or more of your ball bearings most likely needs to be replaced. Turn-around is about 2 weeks currently. tony