ABU Lvl wind parts

[NorsekJ]

Anybody know where I can get a bulk price when ordering Duel bearing Lvl winds, bearinged Cog gears and Carbonex drag washers for ABU round reels?  I get these parts for $25 $10 and $2.50 repectivly.  I would order five to six sets at a time.  Thanks 

[Ken D]

Hi. Pure Fishing used to offer a discount, based on dollar volume. Once they were assimilated into the Jarden group, unsure about amounts, availability, etc. 1-800-abugarcia.

 

Suggest the factory, if you are not into supporting your local dealer/s.

 

If you were not familiar where these parts live in Abu reels, open the C5 MagX schematics for the worm and matching shroud (which you will also need), and the Record RN reels for the bb'd idler gear, and the carbontex washers. PF can work without part numbers, but it's nice to know them for them.

 

If you are upgrading an older reel, that is not using the dimpled idler gear, but affixed with an eclip, or internal plastic tongs, ensure you buy the spool's idler gear as well, to avoid DIN tooth pattern clashes.

 

I'm presuming you are doing a present day ultracast style reel, with the 4 drag washers, and bb's in the spool, not the sideplates?

[NorsekJ]

I'll give them a holler thanks.

 

I've done a few C4s and love the results.  I prefer useing the E clip as opposed to the dimpled cog, i think it offers less friction, and I do replace the idler aswell.  Thank you very much for the info!

[jimmy z]

What I've done in the past, is get a few of the worms with bearings and get a stack of the L/W bearings from one of the bearing sellers. I would have to take off a minute part of the inside edge of the worm housing to accommodate the bearing. But it worked and was less costly.

[NorsekJ]

Thanks Jimmy

That still only gives you only one bearing in the Lvl wind though.  By doing that you end up essentially with a 6500 c4 I do beleave.

What I want is the duel bearing Lvl wind "ball bearing on both ends of the worm gear" and the ball bearinged cog gear.  If you

have never tossed a 6500 with all five ball bearings in it you would drool over it the first time you did.  I've done about eight reels now

for myself and friends and just picked up a couple more 6500s and want to do them as well as a few more for guys at work. 

[jimmy z]

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorsekJ 

 

 

Thanks Jimmy

 

That still only gives you only one bearing in the Lvl wind though.  By doing that you end up essentially with a 6500 c4 I do beleave.

 

What I want is the duel bearing Lvl wind "ball bearing on both ends of the worm gear" and the ball bearinged cog gear.  If you

 

have never tossed a 6500 with all five ball bearings in it you would drool over it the first time you did.  I've done about eight reels now

 

for myself and friends and just picked up a couple more 6500s and want to do them as well as a few more for guys at work. 

 

In my post I said I would buy the worms with the bearing, and than fashion the rest. This was a few years back, but I used to get about five worms with the bearing and a stack of ten bearings for the other side of the L/W for about 60.00 bucks.

 

 

 

And yes, I know all about the 5 bearings. I've done plenty of them over the years.

 

One thing I've been wanting to do , Is get a brake plate from a 6000 tgc reel and build one without an A/R bearing, but build it like the old school Abu's with a stem bearing. This will make it a c6. 

 

[NorsekJ]

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy z 

 

 

In my post I said I would buy the worms with the bearing, and than fashion the rest. This was a few years back, but I used to get about five worms with the bearing and a stack of ten bearings for the other side of the L/W for about 60.00 bucks.

 

 

 

And yes, I know all about the 5 bearings. I've done plenty of them over the years.

 

One thing I've been wanting to do , Is get a brake plate from a 6000 tgc reel and build one without an A/R bearing, but build it like the old school Abu's with a stem bearing. This will make it a c6. 

 

I just reread your post, missed the little part in there where you said worm "with" bearing - ooops.

 

Do you remember where you got the bearinged worms from?  This is exactly what I was looking

 

for.  I wish I had a picture of my face the first time I tossed my first 5 bearing 6500. 

 

 

 

 

 

[jimmy z]

Try Mike's reel repair or Dad's Old Tackle. I used to get 'en for about 10.00 a piece a few years back. I'm sure they are more costly now. I haven't purchased any in a few years.

[NorsekJ]

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy z 

 

 

Try Mike's reel repair or Dad's Old Tackle. I used to get 'en for about 10.00 a piece a few years back. I'm sure they are more costly now. I haven't purchased any in a few years.

 

The last few I have gotten I got from Dads, $24.99 each for the worms.

 

 

 

[jimmy z]

Mike's has the worm's for about 13.00 dollars now. Dad's might be less costly, if he has 'em. The bearing is 3x7x3, and i used to get 'em from VBX or Boca. But there are other bearing sellers out there that have better prices at times. 

[kennyp]

Sorry to jump in but I noticed you guys know what you're talking about. When I took my cog gear out of my 6000, metal post and all came out with my cog. Is this normal or should the post still be in my side plate. I want to upgrade my rockets to but I tried on a 6000 that I'm converting to a CT so I don't junk my sideplates on my rockets.

[jimmy z]

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by kennyp 

 

Sorry to jump in but I noticed you guys know what you're talking about. When I took my cog gear out of my 6000, metal post and all came out with my cog. Is this normal or should the post still be in my side plate. I want to upgrade my rockets to but I tried on a 6000 that I'm converting to a CT so I don't junk my sideplates on my rockets.

 

No, the post is not supposed to come out. There are two ways to get the idler gear off. One way is to cut the small retaining ring off the top of the idler. One will need a sharp Exacto or razor blade for this. If the gear needed to be used again a "C" clip will need to be used to hold the gear in place.

 

The second way to pull 'em off is to use a think mono line. Slip the thick mono under the gear and pull straight up. If is doesn't come off with a little effort, than use the first method. 

 

If your making a Ct out if the reel with the dislodged idler post than it's ok to leave it out. But, if you want to switch it back to a L/W reel you will have to either epoxy that post back in place, with the gear off. You most likely will have to use the second method to get the gear off and use the "C" clip to keep it in place. There isn't any force on the gear so the epoxy use will not be an issue. The post needs to be straight though.

 

I  would opt for a new side plate though. 

 

But since the reel is gonna be a Ct. don't worry about the gear or post!