Lacquer Sealing Anyone

[drawshot]

I'm relatively new to plug making . Someone who had been turning plugs for a while that I met, suggested sealing with lacquer. He told me that is what many of the commercial plugs were sealed with, so that is what I have been using.

 

I have a deep jar that holds about two quarts of lacquer with room for five or six plugs to be submerged on the end of stiff wire to hold them down for about a 1/2 hour. I finish with running a pipe cleaner thru the holes.

 

They dry quickly and I have not had any problems with splitting in salt water.

 

I'm following the vacuum with e-tex thread with interest as I think it would work well with lacquer.

 

Anyone else using lacquer? Are there any disadvantages using lacquer?

 

Thanks to all who contribute here. It really shorten the learning curve for us newcommers to plug making.

[IslandSurf]

I've had zero problems using fast drying polyurathane the miniwax brand ,also miniwax sanding sealer has also worked well

[Fuzzytrout]

Quote:

Originally Posted by drawshot 

I'm relatively new to plug making . Someone who had been turning plugs for a while that I met, suggested sealing with lacquer. He told me that is what many of the commercial plugs were sealed with, so that is what I have been using.

I have a deep jar that holds about two quarts of lacquer with room for five or six plugs to be submerged on the end of stiff wire to hold them down for about a 1/2 hour. I finish with running a pipe cleaner thru the holes.

They dry quickly and I have not had any problems with splitting in salt water.

I'm following the vacuum with e-tex thread with interest as I think it would work well with lacquer.

Anyone else using lacquer? Are there any disadvantages using lacquer?

Thanks to all who contribute here. It really shorten the learning curve for us newcommers to plug making.

 

my vacuum with etex thead is all but dead until this winter...  why?  because sealing with straight etex and heating up your plugs does a pretty damn good job.  in order to do the etex with pressure and not waste a ton of etex, you would have to use a vacuum bag, but then you run into the problem of the etex getting into your pump as you suck the air out. So you would need to go to some kind of jar in between the bag and pump to catch the etex before it got to the pump.    not really difficult to figure it out, but i'll save it for the winter.

 

the jar method would work great with lacquer though.  i would try it if I were sealing with lacquer.

[richie c]

Quote:

Originally Posted by IslandSurf 

I've had zero problems using fast drying polyurathane the miniwax brand ,also miniwax sanding sealer has also worked well

I've been using the Zinsser sanding sealer myself, working good so far.

[DreamsOfHatteras]

Not to thread hijack, but I used the zinnser sanding sealer.for 6 months this spring and had all kinds of problems with primer adhesion and bleed through once clearcoated. Could be it just didn't work in my system, but i'd keep a close eye on it if you haven't been using it for a while. Ended up back at spar/ms.

[Andy B]

I haven't tried lacquer but I have been sealing with polycrylic since day-1 because that I what I had in the house. Seems to work great. Never had any trouble with bin primer sticking to it either.

[IslandSurf]

The good thing about the fast drying polyurathane is you only have to wait about 4-5 hours sometimes longer to start priming and I've never once had any bleeding or swelling I go with Flex Coat epoxy and I like this system so far, never had any swelling ,I recomend trying it

[richie c]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DreamsOfHatteras 

Not to thread hijack, but I used the zinnser sanding sealer.for 6 months this spring and had all kinds of problems with primer adhesion and bleed through once clearcoated. Could be it just didn't work in my system, but i'd keep a close eye on it if you haven't been using it for a while. Ended up back at spar/ms.

What wood were you using that caused the bleed thru ? RC