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Fly line w/out a welded loop for leader?

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Mark L

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My question basically is there a right or wrong place to whip a loop? I have a Airflo sniper and just whipped the loop at the end a year ago but never thought of my own question. Line appears to cast just fine and leader rolls off fine. Thanks in advance. 

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Lines with factory welded loops are a relatively new thing. Lines used to come without and most came with instructions for needle /nail knots for line to leader and line to backing. my first and admittedly low-end lines suggested a 12-18" "shock leader" of stiff 30lb mono to help with turn over in transition from fly line to leader and prevent hinging.

Looped line connections have also engendered loop to leader connectors made of braided mono because the mono loops can cut the loops, especially in the high-end-8 weight and heavier lines.

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If it is casting fine, why worry. Personally I would have used a nail knot and a hand tied mono leader. I’ve cut welded loops off at times and used nail knots to help with hinginess of loop to loop connections with mixed results

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I have whipped a loop in a damaged fly line but I think it adds unwanted weight at that hinge point. I like the hard mono nail knotted with a loop as on the fly suggests. I prefer welded loops but I have destroyed a few trying to get unstuck in the surf or on mangroves. 

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If I don’t have a welded loop, I add a section of stiff butt material with an Albright and tie a loop at the end of that section. I use a lighter to melt down the tag of the Albright then smooth it over a bit with some super glue.  The nail knot is a great solution too, especially the needle nail knot. 

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14 hours ago, Mark L said:

My question basically is there a right or wrong place to whip a loop? I have a Airflo sniper and just whipped the loop at the end a year ago but never thought of my own question. Line appears to cast just fine and leader rolls off fine. Thanks in advance. 

I think this line was discontinued but I know I had used a few of them.  Essentially you just cut the head to where you want it based on grain wt.

 

“the Sniper 4 Seasons will consistently turn over bulky mouthfuls at range with ease A serious fly line for bad ass fish. Models include Floating, Fast Intermediate, Di3, and Di7 with the added bonus of a custom cut Tungsten (T14) fly line which can be cut back to suit your rod and casting capabilities.”

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12 hours ago, onthefly said:

I don't use welded loops on anything much larger than largemouth, and smallmouth. In the salt nail to short piece of 40 lb mason and attach looped leader to that 

Maybe give them another try?  They aren’t what they used to be.  Can’t speak for all manufacturers but Rio and Cortland both have real good welded loops.  I’ve caught a lot of very large stripers, big sharks, and bluefin tuna on factory welded loops.  I’ve found them to be very strong and they last just as long as any whip loop / nail knot.  Bottom line do what works for you but just something to think about.  

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Use a piece of hollow braid. Slip the end over the fly line, you can glue and or whip finish the section. Form a loop with the remaining length for a leader to do a loop to loop connection. 
 

The loop is easy to form using a hollow needle. Pull the tag end thru itself and out down the length. A quick drop of glue at the entrance location close to the loop . 
 

places like amazon will have them as a small group sold per package,  easier than making your own. Search braided loop for fly lines. 

Edited by saltfisherman
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Dan Blanton was big on the braided mono loop many years ago.  I used them for a long time without issues.  Unfortunately Gudebrod went out of business and there aren't any other products I know of on the market that function as well.  I still have a little bit of their braided mono leftover and I use it occasionally.  More recently I've been using the connection Flip Pallot recommends.  He calls it a snell, but it's very similar to a nail knot.  A couple of videos on YTube.  Mad River Outfitters, "Cut the loop" I think.  Not the best quality of productions, but okay.  Enough info to get it done.

Edited by bmac
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There's an excellent article on Dan Blanton's site detailing how to make the braided loop. As bmac says unfortunately Gudebrod has gone out of business, I still have enough to tie loops and put them onto my fly lines for the foreseeable future.  But...depending on the fishing I tie the butt of the leader directly to the fly line for the slightly better transfer of casting energy.  I cheat a bit though on this, with the welded loop on the fly line.  Instead of cutting off the loop, I thread the butt of the fly line through the loop and use it to tie an Albright to connect the two.  If you cut off the loop you need to fold the line over to create the "U" required for the Albright, but the welded loop serves just fine as that "U" for the Albright.  That way if I ever decide I want the loop I carefully cut off the butt leader.  And if I really want a good loop I use a braided loop.

 

I wonder if any of the hollow braids in larger sizes like 60 or 80# would serve as well as the Gudebrod.  Has anyone ever given it a try?

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I always whip finish a loop on my fly lines (folding it back on itself) and have never had one fail. Years ago I had a simple knot-breaking machine and tested every which way you could make a connection, the only one that never failed was the whip-finished one. I am surprised so many like the nail knot as it failed fairly easily, just by pulling the coating right off the core of the line... In my first year of guiding for stripers, I quickly learned to test that leader to fly line joint any time an angler showed up with their own gear, about 80% of the time a simple pull on it parted the knot... (This was about 30 years ago, I am sure it would be better now.) I will stick with a Whipped Loop.

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