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Fish eyes in Clear coat

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R.R. Bridge Fisher

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I'm sure this has probably been discussed already but I figured I'd give it a go again. 

First I'm using system 3 two part clear coat.  I'm sure I mixed thoroughly at 2:1.

 

I did have a heater going right at my spinner , but  it still maybe might have been too cool in my garage..

 What are some of the causes of this  and what can be done to prevent this?

I'm going to put Second coat on tomorrow, and possibly a third if needed..

I'm not sure if this is temperature related or if there are other things I should be doing or not doing?

Thanks for any feedback..

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troll #122  <*)))<

 

 

 

 

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I've had that same thing happen to me with etex, and I think it was temp related too. I added a bulb to my spinner, with a lid to hold some heat in my cool basement. I can maintain 75-80 degrees with a 40 watt bulb.

I would swear that etex has changed their formula too, I went years with no topcoat issues, the bam 2 years ago, nothing but issues.

"Can You Hear Me, Doctor?"

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53 mins ago, Ed White said:

I've had that same thing happen to me with etex, and I think it was temp related too. I added a bulb to my spinner, with a lid to hold some heat in my cool basement. I can maintain 75-80 degrees with a 40 watt bulb.

I would swear that etex has changed their formula too, I went years with no topcoat issues, the bam 2 years ago, nothing but issues.

I think they just changed it again .. it in a new bottle and the B part looks more clear then I ever seen it..

 

did ya spray matte clear before ? And no touchy touchy after .. but could also be too cold .. I never messed with system 3 but would imagine it’s similar and needs to be between like 70-85 ideally 

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I didn't spray it with Matt Clear.  What's the purpose of that step?

Second coat looks a little better,  I'll hit it with a third and I think I will have to be Done in the garage until it warms up or I get a better heater. 

I put my heater right at the spinner .

 

troll #122  <*)))<

 

 

 

 

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Been down the miserable road twice

First time was silicone contamination. Somehow I was picking it up on my hands and transferring it to the plug.

Took me a week of scrubbing every inch of my shop until I found the spot that was slick with it - on the edge and partially underneath, one of the benches that run up the length of the garage.

 

Second time was particularly difficult to figure out.......

 

Post from way back...................

 

Sudsy, on 23 Jun 2012 - 3:34 PM, said:
The scientific term that plays into this is "Surface Tension"
It has to do with the ability of one layer to adhere to the one below. The more dramatic the difference between the surface tension of one layer to another the more likely one of the layers is to separate. Example: the surface tension difference between an oil paint and an acrylic paint is very large, which is why they won't adhere well to each other.

I learned all this the hard way, all trial and error - rattle cans, airbrush paints, different finishes - overall many more problems then successes.
Did a run of plugs using a different type of paint, one none of us here had played with yet. I had a huge problem with my Etex peeling. The chief engineer over at the paint co was kind enough to explain the hows and why's of the whole surface tension thing to me - I took notes.

The reality is that 99.9% of us don't have the equipment to be able to determine the tension difference from one material to another so we have to learn by trial and error. I have it narrowed down to a few paints and finishes that from experience I know will work well together.

There are a lot of guys out there who have jumped into production plug making without having given themselves the time to make the mistakes (and there are sooooo many to make!). I would wager that many of those peeling plugs in your collection come from those types of builders.

The other thing to keep in mind is that surface tension changes with the amount of time given to cure.
I never rush to epoxy after paint and I never rush the second epoxy coat
(I also wipe the haze from the first coat off with an alcohol dampened paper towel before second coating)
Everything needs time to fully cure or adhesion issues can pop up - even using materials you've used successfully dozens of times in the past.

Edited by Sudsy

I just wanta play everyday despite small nagging injuries --

and go home to a woman who appreciates how full of crap I truly am. ~ Crash Davis

 

Social Distancing since 1962

 

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8 hours ago, Wire For Fire said:

but could also be too cold .. I never messed with system 3 but would imagine it’s similar and needs to be between like 70-85 ideally 

That's pretty much all epoxies that I'm familiar with - they need to be in a specific temp range to cure perfectly

I just wanta play everyday despite small nagging injuries --

and go home to a woman who appreciates how full of crap I truly am. ~ Crash Davis

 

Social Distancing since 1962

 

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4 hours ago, R.R. Bridge Fisher said:

I didn't spray it with Matt Clear.  What's the purpose of that step?

Second coat looks a little better,  I'll hit it with a third and I think I will have to be Done in the garage until it warms up or I get a better heater. 

I put my heater right at the spinner .

 

The matte clear makes a barrier between the paints and epoxy . Some paints don’t play nice with some epoxy.. I was having tons of issues between some  createx paint colors and etex epoxy .. same issues like your plug looks.. I was told here by sparky to rusto matte clear after done painting and it pretty much cured all my issues .. used to be such a crap shoot if it play nice or not and pretty frustrating after all that work to bunk the epoxy ..  now epoxy my fav part watching the paint pop and getting that nice glass even coat 

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if you spray anything other then paint in a different part of your basement or shop  its in the air landing on what, if the surface of your plug is cold and not up to warm temp your going to fight with it if your paint in your airbrush is cold you will fight with it brushing paint or clear on a cold surface will fight back i tell my wife all the time everything has to be warm before you even start...warm wood warm paint warm clear warm room.

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5 hours ago, capesams said:

if you spray anything other then paint in a different part of your basement or shop  its in the air landing on what, if the surface of your plug is cold and not up to warm temp your going to fight with it if your paint in your airbrush is cold you will fight with it brushing paint or clear on a cold surface will fight back i tell my wife all the time everything has to be warm before you even start...warm wood warm paint warm clear warm room.

Thanks Steve, 

Yes I think this is my problem as well as contaminating my plug with oils. 

I'll definitely move in the right direction in the future.

My second coat looks a lot better today..

troll #122  <*)))<

 

 

 

 

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I use createx matte clear over the paint then the better boat over the matte clear and it bonds great with no fish eyes. It can be tough to use though, it’s very thick and there’s a ton of bubbles when mixed. I wrap some thin plastic over a foam brush and that gives me a nice smooth finish but it takes a little practice. It’s a nice hard durable epoxy too. Just gotta follow instructions and keep temp over 70. For 30 bucks it’s worth messing with I think 

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