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Issue when test casting a guide layout

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Kewanee

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EBH,

Thanks for your time and valuable input! What you propose makes sense. It sounds like you, and others, recommend 20, 12, 7. Since I already have the 25, 12 and 6, I’ll try tightening up the reduction guides as you propose, first. One clarification - With the current spacing the reduction guides form a bulls eye pattern when I look through them. Will this still be the case if i decrease the distance between the guides?

I need to reorder the running guides because I lost them in the field when the line broke while test casting. So much for saving money. Since I have to order new running guides, are size 4.5 ok or should I go larger? Also, if I shorten the reduction guides, I’ll probably need to add another running, right? Again, thanks so much for your input. I’ll follow up how it worked out once I get the new guides.

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1 hour ago, Kewanee said:

EBH,

Thanks for your time and valuable input! What you propose makes sense. It sounds like you, and others, recommend 20, 12, 7. Since I already have the 25, 12 and 6, I’ll try tightening up the reduction guides as you propose, first. One clarification - With the current spacing the reduction guides form a bulls eye pattern when I look through them. Will this still be the case if i decrease the distance between the guides?

 

yes, as long as you do it somewhat proportionately.  what is will change however, is the alignment of the "cone" formed by the guides.  if you think of an imaginary line running through the center of each guide and continuing out towards the reel, that line will be farther off the blank if the guides are spaced tighter together, and closer to the blank if they're spaced farther apart.  I like to think of the spool lip like it's a guide, so that "bullseye" extends all the way out to the reel, with (ideally) that imaginary line running through the center of each guide lining up with the spool shaft and the outer edge of each guide in the reduction train lining up with the spool lip.  This is sort of the reason behind the inherent problem with that 25H - it's too tall, so you have to keep the collector really close to the reel.  As I said before, you should be able to make it work, it's just a little tougher than if you were using the 20H, in my experience.

I've done stuff I ain't proud of, and the stuff I am proud of is disgusting.

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1 hour ago, EBHarvey said:

 

yes, as long as you do it somewhat proportionately.  what is will change however, is the alignment of the "cone" formed by the guides.  if you think of an imaginary line running through the center of each guide and continuing out towards the reel, that line will be farther off the blank if the guides are spaced tighter together, and closer to the blank if they're spaced farther apart.  I like to think of the spool lip like it's a guide, so that "bullseye" extends all the way out to the reel, with (ideally) that imaginary line running through the center of each guide lining up with the spool shaft and the outer edge of each guide in the reduction train lining up with the spool lip.  This is sort of the reason behind the inherent problem with that 25H - it's too tall, so you have to keep the collector really close to the reel.  As I said before, you should be able to make it work, it's just a little tougher than if you were using the 20H, in my experience.

Thanks for this. Understood.  The 25h is the issue. I guess I should get a 20h.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/5/2023 at 2:11 PM, Kewanee said:

Thanks for this. Understood.  The 25h is the issue. I guess I should get a 20h.

EBHarvey,

I wanted to follow up with you. The new running guides arrived and I picked up a 20h as well. Followed your suggestions. I did some test casting and the 20h worked much better. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time!

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