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overindexing on flyrods and technical data

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puppet

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On 11/15/2023 at 1:59 PM, smath said:

Mike, thanks for a very interesting discussion.

 

I've never heard of a hair rig. Is that where the bead is anchored a couple of inches above the hook? I've heard this called an Alaska rig.

 

I'll be interested to hear more from you about the lines you like for this kind of fishing. I've been fishing an SA Skagit Lite integrated line with a sink tip for single-hand casting for steelhead. It's got a short head and works great for me on smaller streams. Roll casts and single hand spey casts are effortless with weighted flies. I tried the SA Scandi Lite line but it didn't have the mass to turn over weighted flies. These lines have a light running line and have the same problem you had with mending. I fish a Rio Switchchucker on my two-handed rod and like that quite well.

It’s called the moffit system normally used with pegged beads. Pinners love it and it offers nothing unethical. 

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Fergal agree. Drives me nuts. It is dissengeneous what the fly industy is doing.

How are you finding NFC blanks. Are they true to the rating. My interest in this company is growing. My Dage 10' 7 wt R8 is really an 8 wt. But it has been fitted with guides more suited to a 6 wt. This is an issue I suspect with other makers to. Puppet's post resonates with me strongly. Why not design with a view to real function. Not to just reduce weight or make.look pretty. Slip n slide is.putting size 5 Rec SL wires on his next NFC 11' 6 wt to improve line feed into the drift.  These guides sged ice easier just by  flicking them. Now how about.this for thinking 

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The moffitt system is nothing like a hair rig. I just googled it up. The hook is placed 5 inches from the first fly above it. The rig which includes a wire section is designed to hook fish on the outside of the mouth.  Or head or wherever. It can be used as a snagging rig if fished that way. It is illegal in many states. We don't need to fish all that ironmongery to nymph fish. As explained to hair rig your egg you tye on the hook first and then to the bend of the hook a short length of line to fit your fly or egg. You can adjust the position of a pegged egg easily by sliding it up or down from the hook bend. The fish takes.the egg and the hook which will connect.in the inside of the mouth.  I like this system better than the typical fit the bead first and then mount the hook about 1.5 inches away. 

The Moffit system in my opinion should be considered unethical and is illegal on many states. Good for them. 

Mike

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1 hour ago, Mike Oliver said:

Puppet's post resonates with me strongly. Why not design with a view to real function.

 

I revisited reading my opening blurb and it definitely was not until I posted a response in reaction to yours when I parphrased what you were noting.  I obviously agree.

 

In surfcasting rods the trend also went to lighter, faster, rods, with tiny guides.  The nerds gobbled it up and drank the koolaid.  Had to go custom with a gsb 1231m with oversized running guides.  The problem with tiny guides is that mung and eelgrass will cling to the line and jamb the guides. Large guides solve this issue. The 1321m is a heavy rod and not as good as CTS or Century for casting, but is a better fish fighting powehouse and so much more durable.  I have fallen on mine serveral times without penalty.  Again, application needs are contrary to the market direction.

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3 hours ago, Mike Oliver said:

Fergal agree. Drives me nuts. It is dissengeneous what the fly industy is doing.

How are you finding NFC blanks. Are they true to the rating. My interest in this company is growing. My Dage 10' 7 wt R8 is really an 8 wt. But it has been fitted with guides more suited to a 6 wt. This is an issue I suspect with other makers to. Puppet's post resonates with me strongly. Why not design with a view to real function. Not to just reduce weight or make.look pretty. Slip n slide is.putting size 5 Rec SL wires on his next NFC 11' 6 wt to improve line feed into the drift.  These guides sged ice easier just by  flicking them. Now how about.this for thinking 

The 9wt PSI is pretty much a true 9 imho. The 8wt, I need to play with that more but it might be more of an 8.5wt or light 9. Right now, I’m happy with it with a Rio Bonefish 9 on it. I’m thinking it’s more on me at this point. I haven’t been casting as much lately. I think with some use I will end up with a 8wt line on it. I tried a 8wt SA Grand Slam and Rio Flats Pro on, I liked the rio better with the longer (and heavier) head.

 

FWIW, there are some comments on other sites about PSI’s being mislabeled. People order an 8, get a 9, etc. I have not yet seen that personally.

 

I have the 12wt PSI on the lathe now. I’ll finish the handle today and get the strippers on it. I’m revisiting using the single foot torzites on the 12. I’m concerned about the leader going back and forth thru the guides during the end game and causing a problem. I will likely use them on it though and if it’s an issue re-do it.

 

I have PSI 10 & 11 up next and I made an order for some 4 piece rods. God willing, I am going to the Seychelles in 2-3 years and I’d rather buy and build on $112-170 blanks vs drop a grand plus on finished rods. I plan to focus on building thru December then get some tying done for my Feb KW trip.

ASMFC - Destroying public resources and fisheries one stock at a time since 1942.

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On 11/21/2023 at 10:54 AM, Fergal said:

 

 

I’m revisiting using the single foot torzites on the 12. I’m concerned about the leader going back and forth thru the guides during the end game and causing a problem. 

 

I’ve not found this to be an issue although the heaviest line I use is a 10 wt.   

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1 hour ago, Running Ape said:

Puppet- I’m in the process of taking the tiny guides off my tfo surf rod. I hate them for those reasons exactly.

Hahahaha. I wonder these days if any engineers at tackle companies actually design anything useful or it is all snake oil. Sometimes it seems like we are sold the emperor's new clothes.  We pay more for nothing at all.

 

I think I recall that you fish glass rods. I recently bought an iconglass. Time will tell if it holds in terms of durability, but it us a 75 dollar blank and as good if not better than any of the more expensive blanks I own.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I don't buy fly rods that often anymore...I personally ascribe to practice, practice and more practice (I used to be that guy who practiced 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year even when on vacay unless I was sick or injured).  I rarely find a rod that tickles my fancy enough for me to buy these days.  And when I do find a rod I want to buy it isn't because I think it'll allow me to cast further (I can cast an acceptable distance even when I'm away from the game for the entire winter) as the rods I have have plenty of performance to reach out as far as is reasonable to hook a fish.  I buy a new rod simply because I like the way it "feels."  I admit when I pull out rods I bought 20+ years ago and cast them back to back with my current favorites I can feel the difference very easily and part of that can be attributed to improved technology but I think more of it has to do with how my casting has evolved.  More than one top notch angler has commented that I have a fast casting stroke and were of the opinion that very fast action rods suited me best...and that has where my rod choices have evolved, although I can also cast moderate action rods but they don't give me any joy to cast.  

 

As well, if a rod doesn't perform the way I want, I do the same thing I did in my racing days when a recalcitrant car would not drive the way I wanted after multiple practices and setup sessions, I grab it and wring it by the neck to get the performance I need on race day.  It isn't text book but I can make it work when the rod doesn't suit me (or like the time I got to a nice bonefish flat and by mistake took a 10 wt rod with my 8 wt reel...no choice but to wring that rod's neck to make it work with 8 wt line while the bonefish were feeding on the rising tide...).

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  • 2 weeks later...

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