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Heating oil tank replacement

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DEM Parking Lot

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My oil tank sprung a leak on the bottom after a fill-up.

 

Getting quotes between $3-4000 for parts + labor.

 

It's hard to justify that cost when I can get a brand new 275 gallon tank for about $1,100 delivered.

 

Tank is located in a walk-out basement, would have to go through three doorways measuring 32"x80".

 

Replacement seems pretty straight forward for a potential DIY.  I was already able to get the plumbing to break free which I plan on re-using (unless there is a reason that I shouldn't).

 

Removing the oil from the tank will be the head scratcher (about 3/4 full).

 

Can I use any electric pump to remove the oil?  Or does it have to be a designated fuel transfer pump?

 

Any other tips as well?

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Twin up two 275s, or go 330 gallons if it fits through the door, more  is better. I used a small inline garden hose pump to fill plastic barrels till I installed the new tanks. 
 I did twin 330s under my buds license as the town was involved, it had to hold 3psi during the inspection. You’ll need a new whistle, and new fusible link valves if they are present. Never use Teflon tape on fuel oil. Try to strain any oil you pump.

Tis better to remain silent and thought the fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.

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12 mins ago, cheech said:

Twin up two 275s, or go 330 gallons if it fits through the door, more  is better. I used a small inline garden hose pump to fill plastic barrels till I installed the new tanks. 
 I did twin 330s under my buds license as the town was involved, it had to hold 3psi during the inspection. You’ll need a new whistle, and new fusible link valves if they are present. Never use Teflon tape on fuel oil. Try to strain any oil you pump.

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

I had initial thoughts of upgrading the tanks, such as Roth etc, however, this is going to be a "discreet" replacement so trying to keep everything as "alike" as possible.  In other words, not pulling permits...  yet...

 

And hopefully be able to reuse the existing fill and whistle valve plumbing (Whistle valve and all other components will be replaced).

 

Did you use any kind of sealant on the threads?  Such as pipe dope?

 

So regarding pumps, you used this one below to pump out the fuel?  Just a regular garden hose as well?

 

image.png.f2ff998ea1a60b73fd7527fdc317a54c.png

 

 

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Is the tank supplying the boiler from the bottom of the tank ? If so you should have a valve on the bottom . In which case you probably don’t even have to pump out the oil. Disconnect the line on the valve and drain it into buckets.

 As far as removing the old , you can probably cut it into pieces with a sawzall and some carbide tipped blades.

BLM - Bass Lives Matter 

Race - human like everyone else

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Yup I used that exact pump, I think I wore out the rubber impeller or the oil softened it. I was pumping out of the ground and up a small incline. I  got a replacement impeller at Grainger. An old regular garden hose was used for the transfer.

 I used a sticky blue pipe dope/joint compound, I believe Teflon paste is usable, but I would avoid it also.

Edited by cheech

Tis better to remain silent and thought the fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.

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16 hours ago, giant basshole said:

Is the tank supplying the boiler from the bottom of the tank ? If so you should have a valve on the bottom . In which case you probably don’t even have to pump out the oil. Disconnect the line on the valve and drain it into buckets.

 As far as removing the old , you can probably cut it into pieces with a sawzall and some carbide tipped blades.

Yes, it's a bottom outlet valve.  My thoughts initially but I will be re-using the oil in my current tank so i'd like to avoid the sludge on the bottom.

 

I'll probably pump from the top and use the bottom valve to drain the remainder.

 

14 hours ago, cheech said:

Yup I used that exact pump, I think I wore out the rubber impeller or the oil softened it. I was pumping out of the ground and up a small incline. I  got a replacement impeller at Grainger. An old regular garden hose was used for the transfer.

 I used a sticky blue pipe dope/joint compound, I believe Teflon paste is usable, but I would avoid it also.

Awesome, this info helps greatly.  Thanks!


 

13 hours ago, BLilly said:

Also don't forget disposal of the old tank and whatever sludge is at the bottom of the old tank...Gotta say $3k for dealing with that doesn't sound so bad to me...

Luckily, I work in the Hazmat field so I have the resources to dispose of the oil and sludge in a legal manner.  Regarding the tank, my scrap guy is on stand-by to pick it up for me.

 

Although... that $3K is sounding more attractive to not have to deal with this myself....

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If you do the work you want to stub the copper tubing up in the tanks bottom several inches so you don’t draw out any sludge that accumulates. Also forgot to mention all copper tubing connections should be flared. If there are unions connecting the fill and vent to the tank it should be plug n play.

Tis better to remain silent and thought the fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.

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4 hours ago, Gotcow? said:

Sure a tank full of fuel oil vapors and you cut into it making sparks.

 

What could possibly go wrong?

I don't think heating oil is that volatile/combustible for that to be a concern.  Luckily, I have enough room in my walk-out basement to shimmy the tank out whole without cutting...  Hopefully

 

1 hour ago, cheech said:

If you do the work you want to stub the copper tubing up in the tanks bottom several inches so you don’t draw out any sludge that accumulates. Also forgot to mention all copper tubing connections should be flared. If there are unions connecting the fill and vent to the tank it should be plug n play.

Going to use your garden hose method, i'll fab up some kind of strainer on the inlet/outlet sides as well as keeping it a few inches up from the bottom.

 

Good call on the flare fittings, i'll have to double check when I am in there today.  I believe they are though.

 

No unions on the fill and vent, however, I was able to break all the plumbing free which should just slide out from the exterior wall in one piece or leave in place while i shimmy the old and new into place.

Oil tank.jpg

Edited by DEM Parking Lot
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On 10/5/2023 at 1:30 PM, DEM Parking Lot said:

No unions on the fill and vent, however, I was able to break all the plumbing free which should just slide out from the exterior wall in one piece or leave in place while i shimmy the old and new into place.

Easy enough to add some unions between the elbows and the 45 degree fittings. Measure center to center of the fittings. Get four nipples and two unions of proper size.

BLM - Bass Lives Matter 

Race - human like everyone else

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