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Price of small boat ownership.

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On 9/13/2023 at 7:35 AM, Lateral Line said:

I've purchased older, used boats and motors with good results.

But, I've learned... older used boats use wood in construction. Look carefully for any soft spots, transom spider cracks, etc. Wood rot under fiberglass is a common problem in old boats. I'd research boats made with no wood in construction. 

 

^^^^^

This is real good advice.

"A GAMEFISH (which striped bass should be) Is too valuable to be caught only once"...Lee Wulff

 

When the people fear the government, there is tyranny. When the government fears the people, there is liberty" - Thomas Jefferson

 

"I'm from the government, and I'm here to help." Most dangerous words in the English language...Ronald Reagan

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12 hours ago, Bigred78 said:

So I’m not too worried about working on the moter as I am somewhat mechanically inclined and I love to learn lol. What I do not know anything about is fiberglass work. I’ve been reading some more and I keep seeing quite a bit about rotted transoms and stringers. That’s making me a bit worried as it seeems way above my pay grade to fix

Don't worry about fiberglass work, it's surprisingly simple as long as you aren't getting yourself involved with structural repairs (transoms, decks, etc.).  Look for an all-composite fiberglass boat, stay away from wood (some older fiberglass boats used wood for coring, do your research), find a boat with an above-deck tank so you don't have to worry about an old fuel tank replacement (20yrs+ old just assume the tank needs to be replaced). Bad stringers have warning signs; soft deck and cracks in hull... a bad transom is a bit harder to diagnose but look for cracks where it joins with the deck or cap.  A nice whaler 15 or 17 is an excellent choice. 2 strokes are cheap up front and cheaper to maintain, and MUCH easier to wrench on (as long as it isn't all corroded). I grew up on a 15ft boston whaler and we'd take it on 40 mile trips to the Vineyard sometimes, always made it back despite it always being windier in the afternoon. A good captain can handle a small boat in seas, slow down and know your angles of approach on bigger waves, but you WILL have to pick your days regardless and some days you WILL get wet (that's boating!). Judgement is something you'll build up over time with experience.  Budget for at least $1,000/yr in maintenance, you will have years where nothing goes wrong and that cost is much less, some years you may have to fork it over, depends on your luck and commitment to regular upkeep. Forget the inflatable idea, you definitely will not be inflating/deflating in your backyard, that will get old FAST.  Aluminum is not a bad idea as they're cheap and easy to fix but there are MANY reasons why they're less popular, also think about what your lady would like to ride in.

 

Look for a good deal, be patient, don't overthink it but be diligent with your research. Buy from someone local, a friend, or a friend of a friend. Know what YOU want and what will make you happy. Worst case, you sell it down the road and hopefully had a great time.  You'll always hear boat-ownership horror stories and people do get ripped off on used boats, it happens, but be ready with questions and trust your gut.

Edited by Wizumz
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As said above by many get a aluminum boat 16 ft or more with a deep v and a good aluminum trailer 

 

leaving a 12 to 14 ft boat in the drink is hard on it and unless you are checking it often a worry at best

 

theres an aluminum boat at the top of this forum mentioned that would be a good start in your price range 

 

 

Edited by Joe Paranee
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I love aluminum boats but they can corrode  pretty fast when used in salt water if you don’t pay attention and take action. ..and even then. For those that know what I’m talking about, I’m sure that like me, you can spot a saltwater aluminum boat by looking at a couple of rivets on the transom or even the power head.
 

Glass boats obviously don’t have this exact issue with the hulls but still need some upkeep. Some things to consider for all boats include:

  • Making sure you have the right anodes on the outboard. Zinc for saltwater. These will need to be inspected and replaced from time to time. 
  • Keep all greased component loaded with grease or saltwater will get sucked in. 
  • Flush the power head at the very least after each salty trip. I use salt away from time to time as well. 
  • Only use an aluminum or galvanized trailers and rinse it with fresher water after saltwater use (if at all possible). I have a lake .5 miles from my house so this has been my regimen. 
  • Wash or at least rinse all salt splashed metals (rails, steering wheels, attachments, etc). SS can and will still rust in time. 
  • Ensure all wiring is sealed well and if you replace anything, use tinned wires and silicone in any exposed terminations or splices. 
  • Be ready to replace parts on everything at a more aggressive pace. Anodes, water pump, thermostat, trailer brakes, etc.  
  • Plan for the worst. Keep all safety gear on board and know where it is. An anchor is a must (for safety). Subscribe to an on the water emergency towing service. A VHF can be an important form of redundant communication. 
  • I know you said you kayak but may need this depending on your plans and reach. Learn how to navigate the ocean. It’s obviously not a lake or pond. Rarely are hazards marked and tides are always changing what’s underneath you. Even year to year we see new or changing structure from weather events. 
  • Know your limits and when to call a trip. I usually feel safer in rough seas in my kayak as I have less people and boat to worry about. I can also recover and have practiced this. 
  • Don’t be cheap and invest in good equipment. A solid running outboard, electronics, and components will go a long ways and be less frustrating.

 

Be careful. A 5 year old boat driven hard and put away wet can be in worst shape than a 30 yo boat babied by the original owner. Some issues may be hidden in plain sight and either not literally seeing them or being too excited with finding a newer boat at a lower pr price causing you to look the other way. Most boats older than 5-6 years likely have wood transoms. Wood can get wet and will stay wet until it’s removed. Not an issue for many years but can be corroding from within and a slow but certain ticking time bomb, add weight, and could trigger other issues. At the very least, it can affect your resale when someone like me comes along. 
 

Good luck. Prices have been coming down and dealers are now getting stuck with overpriced inventory. During Covid I would tell them their prices are too high but is way more fun now that the entire market is stopped and they are not moving boats. They doubled in price and while some of that was from supply issues, there is mostly screwing going on. Time to unscrew or get hammered in debt (most don’t own them but have to finance  them and pay on the interest). Even some used boats are just sitting with high prices, likely from a pandemic shopper that paid ridiculous money a new or used boat just to be a part of a fad.

 

Good luck!

Edited by NHAngler
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A couple of additonal thoughts:

 

Sometimes you can find a boat that was only used on freshwater lakes.  If you can do that, you will run into far fewer corrosion-related problems.  A friend of mine bought a 31-foot fishing boat from a Great Lakes seller at least 20 years ago, and is still fishing it offshore today.

 

Cost doesn't only come in the form of money.  It also comes in the form of time.  There are only so many good fishing days each year when you can get out--weather and work both take their toll.  So when you think about doing your own repairs, the question is not whether you can do it, but when you can do it.  Spending good fishing time dismantling an engine or doing fiberglass work  Sure, you're saving money, but you're spending time, and after close to seven decades on this planet, I've learned one thing:  You can always make more money, but no matter how much money you have, it's impossible to make more time.  So choose carefully when you make your decision.

"I have always believed that outdoor writers who come out against fish and wildlife conservation are in the wrong business. To me, it makes as much sense golf writers coming out against grass.."  --  Ted Williams

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2 hours ago, CWitek said:

Cost doesn't only come in the form of money.  It also comes in the form of time.  There are only so many good fishing days each year when you can get out--weather and work both take their toll.  So when you think about doing your own repairs, the question is not whether you can do it, but when you can do it.  Spending good fishing time dismantling an engine or doing fiberglass work  Sure, you're saving money, but you're spending time, and after close to seven decades on this planet, I've learned one thing:  You can always make more money, but no matter how much money you have, it's impossible to make more time.  So choose carefully when you make your decision.


..second this and today is a great example. Balance is important. Nobody wants to look at an expensive recreational asset sitting int their driveway while only being able to use it so often. Likewise, having to fix things while not using it may only further the pain. 

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On 9/10/2023 at 8:36 AM, Bigred78 said:

I think it’s might be time to bite the bullet on a boat. I’ve been kayak fishing for years but that really isn’t cutting it anymore. My wife actually like to fish but every time I go out with her be charter or party boat the price is double. The saltwater kayak isn’t really practical for her because it’s really hard for me to help her with anything and there is the added danger of flipping. I’ve been looking into some small skiffs. I’ve been seeing some 13-15 foot skiffs tri hull with a steering console 40ish horse for between 4-7k they run at that price range but are old. I’m hoping that would be good enough to tool around the bay and make it ocean side if you pick your days. I’m trying to figure out the other costs to make sure I can justify the cost. I want to get a slip somewhere along raritain bay. It seems like there summer rates are 1800 for a boat that size but I would need that boat in the water from late March through December. I also need insurance and registration. The fuel economy would be pretty good I would imagine considering it only has a 12 gallon tank. Then there is also winterization and maintenance. I know the matinince will vary wildly and so will a lot of the other costs but I was hoping someone with a boat that size could help me out and give me a breakdown of their cost. Thanks, John

Boat you want is a little small for Raritan Bay.  There  are days that size would work but for safety and comfort I would got larger.

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I'll say this: The summer of 2004 I bought a 2002 Triumph 170CC/50hp Mercury and without question, it is by far the best investment I ever made. In terms of enjoyment, reliability, going places I probably shouldn't have been.

The boat is lightweight, flexible, and INDESTRUCTIBLE (not kidding). A literal zero maintenance alternative to aluminum and fiberglass.

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  • 1 month later...

So I wound up doing a ton of research on fiberglass boats. Everything I was looking at for the most parts had soft spots in the deck. Found out that was pretty much a death sentence. I was bailing on the idea for a while until I started looking into the aluminum boats. Saw a bunch of older star craft and seanymph center consoles for sale. Didn’t really know those were a thing. I also found a place to store it so I can trailer it in the beginning. Looking at a 1987 17’ StarCraft center console right now. 60 hp mercury outboard and a Minkota spot lock trolling motor with trailer titles and all. $3200. Think I’m gonna go take a look at it this weekend.

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16 hours ago, Bigred78 said:

So I wound up doing a ton of research on fiberglass boats. Everything I was looking at for the most parts had soft spots in the deck. Found out that was pretty much a death sentence. I was bailing on the idea for a while until I started looking into the aluminum boats. Saw a bunch of older star craft and seanymph center consoles for sale. Didn’t really know those were a thing. I also found a place to store it so I can trailer it in the beginning. Looking at a 1987 17’ StarCraft center console right now. 60 hp mercury outboard and a Minkota spot lock trolling motor with trailer titles and all. $3200. Think I’m gonna go take a look at it this weekend.

Repost this in the tin boat mafia thread. Those guys will tell you all the pitfalls to look out for. Afaik aluminum isnt foolproof either.

the human race has proved darwins theory of evolution wrong. we let the dumb survive. 

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17 hours ago, Bigred78 said:

So I wound up doing a ton of research on fiberglass boats. Everything I was looking at for the most parts had soft spots in the deck. Found out that was pretty much a death sentence. I was bailing on the idea for a while until I started looking into the aluminum boats. Saw a bunch of older star craft and seanymph center consoles for sale. Didn’t really know those were a thing. I also found a place to store it so I can trailer it in the beginning. Looking at a 1987 17’ StarCraft center console right now. 60 hp mercury outboard and a Minkota spot lock trolling motor with trailer titles and all. $3200. Think I’m gonna go take a look at it this weekend.


I am all in on Aluminum Boats. For inshore fishing. I prefer tiller style and wide open decks. 16' modified or deep vee. These boats are wet. Believe me when you are getting slapped in the face with sea spray and soaked to the bone you will do something about it. Spray rails and console with tall wind shield. That's what I did and it works. I even built a side console but still stay tiller. Maybe someday we will see a boned out 16' Aluminum DV with a flared bow to help with splash and come in at under 500lbs. You will want to go at least 20 knots or faster in the tinnys. Like a kayak, you can rig it how you want. Most used? Rip the old wood out and start over . You don't want a water logged tin boat with water logged flotation. I even run two pumps in the back on separate switches just in case. 

 

 

 

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