Antique rocker repair, pointers from real woodworkers appreciated

[gellfex]

My wife's rocker from her granny got knocked over and the arm snapped off.  I think drilling out the 2 dowels at the back of the arm and regluing it with new dowels is fairly straightforward, but the front helical vertical seems trickier. the 'dowel' was the turned end of the support. I'd have to cut flat both sides and drill it out freehand to redowel it.

Is it crazy to think about drilling the front holes loose, then using Bondo and a 1/4" steel pin instead of a dowel and wood glue at the front so that it can float into position? It would also be stronger in case of a future mishap. Someone suggested epoxy, but in my experience because it's so much thinner than Bondo it would run everywhere and i'd be refinishing the piece too! 

[Livefreeordie]

Is the left armrest still attached to the top of the helical?

[gellfex]

6 mins ago, Livefreeordie said:

Is the left armrest still attached to the top of the helical?

Yes it broke off as one piece.

[ted527]

Drill out and replace rear dowels as you said. The front I would drill and glue in a slightly smaller dowel. 

[giant basshole]

Have you considered drill into the helical and adding the proper size dowel ?  Your going to cut them both flush anyway. Flush cut both , pilot hole in the center and drill them out. Get a measurement of length of dowel cut it and glue it up.

[Ben Lippen]

For that, yeah ya could cut it off flat on the chair and same on the chair rail. Then drill out below for a new dowel, same as the back. Then use dowel markers to set your drill points.

Free-hand drill the rest after that. Size yer dowels down so there's no force being applied. Make a slurry of sawdust and glue. There ya go.. Ben there, done it. 

[gellfex]

Thanks all, but what concerns me is how weak the helical support will be if it's drilled out. I guess I don't trust the glued in dowel to be as strong as the original single piece, and it obviously wasn't all that strong to begin with! Plus it would have to be a loose fit given both side are gonna be hand drilled.

 

 @Ben Lippen why the woodglue slurry vs bondo? I'd figure it would shrink and be messy anyway.

[Rmarsh]

epoxy would work best........used with structural thickener ....west system 406

[nightfighter]

Bondo is a filler, not an adhesive. I get a fair amount of chairs to refurbish/reglue before holiday dinners....

Drilling out flush cut dowels, start small, and increase size. If old glue in there, the dowel may break up cleanly. When repairing/regluing chairs, I use a forstner bit for the final clean out of the holes. Getting the angle correct on the front seat will take some time so go slowly as you get close increasing drill bit size. You will see a noticeable difference between the two woods. The dowel hole on the helical piece should be centered inline. That dowel can be glued in when you are satisfied you have it right. Let that one dry. Then come back and dry fit the piece in. Should be a little play, or you wouldn't be able to get it in. Glue and clamp. I use brown wood glue and would not be worried about strength. 

 

[nightfighter]

And see if you can get some fluted dowel pins in the size you need. They will give you a little more play and more glue up surface than a straight dowel.

[Joe]

Don't forget there are different epoxies I've had good success with Smith's Fill-it.  It's nice & thick & works more like wood than bondo. It's pricey though...

[bass-o-matic]

use painters tape to protect the finish from the glue up.