Bait Tailer

Spiral for heavy parabolic plugging

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I'm debating how to rebuilding an os gsb 1201m or maybe 1321m and want to try a spiral wrap.  I've enjoyed the benefits on shorter blanks, but curious how it works without a clear shut off point.  Are there best practices for parabolic blanks or just O'hearn, static load and hope for the best?

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It may look strange but its definitely worth trying.    Load the rod and let the bend dictate where they need to go.  You may need to add a transition guide to make up for all that real estate or use a higher stripper to push the reduction train further away from the reel.  Once your close, tape the guides on with electrical tape and load it.  The tape will likely let the guides move a bit around the axis to where they "want" to be. 

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Please forgive my ignorance, probably need to break some spinning layout impulses.  I was thinking about using a high frame stripper, assuming that would allow me to move the reduction and transition closer to the reel.  on a parabolic blank wouldn't the first 180 guide need to be closer than on a faster action blank?

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*Oversight.  Obviously high frame will do a better job of keeping the line off the blank for longer straighter path.

 

Will be using a lexa 400 and saw kw 20 12 10s or 8s was standard. have a RV16 and few others I'll play with.

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Posted (edited)

I love how this cancels out the twist and feels even better on heavy rods. 

 

I loaded up the 10' in a 45° stand so tip was also 45°.

 

Attempt 1: complete 4 guide spiral transition by the peak. KW 20, 12, 10s.  Static load looked great but test casts sucked.  Stripper too close and transition was too tight. line was not happy and backlashed as soon as I started hitting it hard. 

 

Attempt 2: pushed the kw20 and transition out so line crossed under the blank at peak with same 4 guide transition.  Line much happier.  launched 3oz bank sinker no problem but line hits the blank on both sides of the kw20 under full load (10# drag)

 

I'm planning to split the difference tomorrow with an extra 10 in the transition, then RV16 and kw12m if I'm feeling splurgy. 

 

Saw O'Quinn started at 45°.  Maybe a high frame stripper at a slight angle to get the transition going sooner?  Does that really cause level wind issues? would solve a lot of problems.

 

 

Edited by Bait Tailer

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Posted (edited)

What does a shut off point have to do with it? Every blank has a point where the tip bends to 90 degrees. I never had a problem because the difference is non-existent whether the guides are on top or the bottom, after all spinning guides are also on the bottom. I believe you are talking about the O'Quinn wrap method.

Edited by spoonplugger1

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Posted (edited)

3 hours ago, spoonplugger1 said:

What does a shut off point have to do with it? Every blank has a point where the tip bends to 90 degrees. I never had a problem because the difference is non-existent whether the guides are on top or the bottom, after all spinning guides are also on the bottom. I believe you are talking about the O'Quinn wrap method.

Yeah O'Quinn. Don't know how O'hearn came out.  There's a lot of references here and elsewhere to the "shut off point" for all rods from Belmo, Charlie2 and O'Quinn himself. I assumed that had something to do with realizing the benefits of the spiral and where the line should transition based on the action.

 

I'm probably overthinking it but can't be that simple or entirely academic. 

Edited by Bait Tailer

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If anyone gives it a go and finds this helpful. it was a fun build and ended up on a 120MH nightshift.  Better tip for jigs and big plugs and still moderate in an uneven way - kinda like the jigster. 

 

I dug up the rodmaker articles today and got it casting well enough. I had to lean the 20 a bit to get it going then tight spacing to the 12 with an extra 8 in transition before 180.

 

Thanks @tbush for the electrical tape trick.  Guides ended up where they wanted. Line path is straight and smooth. 

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