AaronWilde

80lb braid to 80lb mono knot to knot

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Posted (edited)

I would suggest no knot and instead use a splice.  A 4' or more section of 80lb hollow braid.  Use a tapestry needle from the  store like hobby lobby or a dedicated hollow braid splice needle.  Run  each line just short of half way  from each end of the HB.  Put a drop of super glue on each end and run it down the hb toward the end with your fingers.  Then use either very fine braid pe#0.4 range or sewing thread and run half hitches on each junction finish with a risotto finish (really snug it down tight) and cut flush.   That will ensure smooth transition and no fraying.

 

Not something you want to do in the field but at home prep it's not technically difficult at all.  No issues with variations in your knot and guaranteed to hold to the strength of the weakest line or tackle knot.

 

It also gives you no knot bump with any wear or issues repeatedly running thru guides or line rollers or reel guides.

 

If your going to be casting heavy weight especially with a spinning reel look into a cast cannon or learn to take the line slack and wrap it around the rod once where you grip above the reel.  The friction against the grip with a couple fingers on it will hold it firm for a power cast and release fine as you lift your finger/s.

Edited by RiverShoulders

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Agree with the hollow core braid suggestion. But if you have to retie frequently in the field, go with nail knot/blob knot.

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Posted (edited)

5 mins ago, Hill said:

Agree with the hollow core braid suggestion. But if you have to retie frequently in the field, go with nail knot/blob knot.

Agreed. Reason suggested is he stated it was for a long wind on shock leader 26' IIRC.  Figure he will tie on final tackle to clip/swivel for bait-n-wait setup.  Fish finder /pulley etc

Edited by RiverShoulders

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Posted (edited)

Bimini twist 

 

Cannot believe no one has recommended that yet. Thrown it through the guides on my larger conventional setups for years. 

Edited by Bubbaluch

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So I tried tying an FG knot today (30# braid to 40# mono) and for the life of me, couldn’t get a consistently good knot. 3 of the 10 I tested failed at <10lbs. Is there any way to determine a correctly tied knot without testing it?

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31 mins ago, RiverShoulders said:

instead use a splice.  A 4' or more section of 80lb hollow braid.

this isn't just the best answer.. It's the only answer which runs smoothly through the guides

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Posted (edited)

22 mins ago, Camhabib said:

So I tried tying an FG knot today (30# braid to 40# mono) and for the life of me, couldn’t get a consistently good knot. 3 of the 10 I tested failed at <10lbs. Is there any way to determine a correctly tied knot without testing it?

With thinner braids not really.  You really need to pay attention as you tie it.  Making sure the line lay is not crossed over or twisted up.  Then as you tighten it do it slowly and progressively tiding up the knot as you go.  Make sure to wet it well..  see that color change as the braid embeds into the mono.

 

Personally I think tge vast majority that tie these knots have far greater variation in the strength do to variations in the tying then is realized.  The fact most all USDM line is severely underrated gives people a false idea of the knots performance. Example 15 lb PP is actually closer to 27lb actual break strength.  Tie a FG and it breaks at 15lb and the person thinks they have to gold standard 100% knot.  When really it's closer to 60% and nothing special beyond being small diameter.

 

There are some that are gifted knot gurus and can tie these things consistently most ever time within 5%.

 

Not knocking the knot.  I use most very frequently with short and small diameter leaders PR,FG SC.  Currently I have been using tge SC as I find I can tie it more consistently in the field and its only slightly larger diameter.  With the half hitch risotto finish ramp it's hardly a difference.  But it's strength is more consistent for me as I can tie it more consistently the same. I actually wet the lines first and again before sinching.

Edited by RiverShoulders

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Posted (edited)

1 hour ago, Camhabib said:

So I tried tying an FG knot today (30# braid to 40# mono) and for the life of me, couldn’t get a consistently good knot. 3 of the 10 I tested failed at <10lbs. Is there any way to determine a correctly tied knot without testing it?

Consistency of spacing and color change goes a long way.  Technique, even pressure and number of wraps for diameters is the hard part.  Takes more than a few attempts. 

 

I do it this way. Consistent in and off the water. 

 

 

 

Edited by Bait Tailer

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I’d go down to 50lb braid, it’s diameter is closest to 12lb mono with most braids @50lb breaking close to 65-80lb anyway. Save the 80lb braid for my conventional trolling reels 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for all the replies guys! There's tons of good information here for me to work with.

 

14 hours ago, GoneCoastal said:

Well 80lb mono coming off of a spinning reel especially 25 feet of is going to severely limit your distance. If you want to keep that set up for abrasion I would by a 40 size conventional reel like a Diawa SLH40. It would be much better for distance. Speaking of which ditch that Ugly Stick and pick up a middle of the road graphite factory heaver. You’ll thank me later and cast twice as far. 

 

You have me thinking about how much distance I am going to lose by using the 80lb mono shock/abrasion leader. I wonder if I kept the length to 5 feet or so if I would still lose a lot of distance. It would be a little difficult (or at least require me to learn a different type of cast) if I were to leave 5 feet of mono leader, a 12 oz sinker, and a few foot leader to bait hanging out of the rod tip so that it's only braid going through the guides, but I think I could manage it. There's not always a lot of room on the river bank for 20 feet of swing lol.

 

I haven't bought the reel yet, and the Ugly stick is an old rod of mine. I have been looking around at the conventional route as well. I am left handed with my retrieve which does limit what conventional reels I can use. I love my smaller round reels (Abu and Daiwa Luna), so I at least have an idea of what I would want for a revolving spool. The problem I have is finding a conventional rod that I would want.. Ugly Stick used to make a rod rated for throwing up to 24oz and ideally I would be using something like that. From my search it seems there's only a few rods around over 10 feet long rated to throw at best 16 oz, and from what I read even those rods don't handle that much weight very well for distance..

 

 

 

 

Edited by AaronWilde

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17 hours ago, Camhabib said:

So I tried tying an FG knot today (30# braid to 40# mono) and for the life of me, couldn’t get a consistently good knot. 3 of the 10 I tested failed at <10lbs. Is there any way to determine a correctly tied knot without testing it?

The key is keeping the braid taught when applying the wraps, placing that first set of half hitches, and then the real key is setting the knot by litterally pulling with almost all your might (especially with 50lb or 80lb braid/mono). The video I posted really does go over that and how to see if you set the knot correctly by looking for the mono to change color across the entire length if the knot.

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Just now, FallenKell said:

The key is keeping the braid taught when applying the wraps, placing that first set of half hitches, and then the real key is setting the knot by litterally pulling with almost all your might (especially with 50lb or 80lb braid/mono). The video I posted really does go over that and how to see if you set the knot correctly by looking for the mono to change color across the entire length if the knot.

The problem is I’ll snap the braid if I do that. I’m having a difficult time figuring out the amount of force required to set (serve?) the knot. The SC knot is a lot easier to tie, but again, I find myself not locking in the knot properly and it sliding off the mono. I ordered some knot pullers (aluminum tubes with rubber) to help pull them a little more carefully, but I can’t help but feeling I’m seriously messing something up considering how hard I’m finding this. 

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Dont see whats the commotion on knots..

 

Heres one of my spare spools.  PE8 attached to 130mono. I can throw it outside of guides or throw it wraps on spool, if the weight is at the end (especially 8+++ ounces) everything will shoot through the guides.

 

Just get a rod and reel and go outside and try it. Then change it up if it doesnt work for you.

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With 80lb line, you should be pulling close to 80lb, possibly more depending on how well the line is rated. 

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