Van Staal VR50 Schematics

[Julian.]

Hi,

 

the drag of my VR50 is a bit sticky and i would like to grease it a bit, i have some shimano DG1 drag grease which should be fine, im just having a hard time finding schematics for the VR50, there also wasnt one in the box.

 

There is a c clip on the top and the bottom of the spool and i would really like to know the right way of taking that drag stack apart, i dont want to force anything and damage a seal.

 

I would love to have the schematics for the whole reel if possible but what i need the moat at the moment is the schematics for the drag.

 

I wasnt able to find the schematics for the VR50 anywhere, i found some for the bigger sizes but nothing for the VR50 or 75, i looked for a while now, my last resort is asking on here, thanks in advance for the replies

[PnoT]

I'm attaching the VR50 gen 2 schematic... hope that helps.

VR50_Gen2.pdf

[Julian.]

9 hours ago, PnoT said:

I'm attaching the VR50 gen 2 schematic... hope that helps.

VR50_Gen2.pdf

Thank you very much

[LB]

Remove C shape clip on top of drag stack part #2C, the drag system is like what used in the VS100 line of reels or the VSX.

You should be able to push down on the shaft that the C clip is attached to and the clip should slid off, l know l do it that way on my VS100-150 spools.

Hope this helps you.

 

 

Edited July 23, 2022 by LB

[LB]

12 hours ago, PnoT said:

I'm attaching the VR50 gen 2 schematic... hope that helps.

VR50_Gen2.pdf

What do you see when you try to open the PDF file that you posted? are there other PDF files on that page? 

[PnoT]

4 hours ago, LB said:

What do you see when you try to open the PDF file that you posted? are there other PDF files on that page? 

There are two pages included in the pdf I uploaded.  I just downloaded it from here just to make sure and everything looks good.

[LB]

35 mins ago, PnoT said:

There are two pages included in the pdf I uploaded.  I just downloaded it from here just to make sure and everything looks good.

Thanks.

Edited July 23, 2022 by LB

[Julian.]

On 23.7.2022 at 3:17 PM, LB said:

Remove C shape clip on top of drag stack part #2C, the drag system is like what used in the VS100 line of reels or the VSX.

You should be able to push down on the shaft that the C clip is attached to and the clip should slid off, l know l do it that way on my VS100-150 spools.

Hope this helps you.

 

 

Yea it wasnt that hard to remove, i got the small c-clip off which was pretty easy with a small needle point tool, then i took a medium sized flathead and pushed on a steel drag washer, alternating sides so the top seal does not get pushed out from one side, that was also pretty easy, but its definetly that hardest drag stack to take apart and i serviced a lot of different drags.

 

After that i greased all the crabon drag washers with some shimano DG1 drag grease and put everything back together, the drag feels much better after greasing those dry drag washers but its still not perfect.

 

Im also gonna change out the clicker, its not really a good design and V shaped clicker like on a lot of older reels like Penn 420ss is much better with basicly no ressistance while still being lound enough and very reliable (picture attached).

The ressistance of that original drag clicker is just too much, it takes a lot more pressure for the spool to start going and that is very noticable with every drag setting low to high.

 

It basicly feels like the drag is sticking but its not really the drag its the clicker, i also tried making the clicker less agressive but its eighter you hear it or you barely hear and the the less tight setting would basicly be silent with ambient noise when fishing but the drag feels so much smoother when it doesnt have to overcome that clicker to start going.

 

So a new drag clicker is a much needed upgrade, thanks for the help so far i just recently made an account on this forum but it seems like this is the place to be

 

Edited July 25, 2022 by Julian.
spelling

[LB]

Julian.

Was there drag grease there when you took it apart? l just did my VS reels drags cleaned and regressed them that made it worse OK at light setting started to get jerky as l tighten it. 

l took them out again washed them clean with VMP (lighter fluid) dried them in the sun reinstalled now there fine smooth at light setting to all most lock down.

Edited July 25, 2022 by LB

[Julian.]

7 hours ago, LB said:

Julian.

Was there drag grease there when you took it apart? l just did my VS reels drags cleaned and regressed them that made it worse OK at light setting started to get jerky as l tighten it. 

l took them out again washed them clean with VMP (lighter fluid) dried them in the sun reinstalled now there fine smooth at light setting to all most lock down.

No the drag washers where completly dry, its a bit smoother now but the clicker is still a problem, its so bad and it makes the drag very jerky and there is way too much resistance because of the clicker when the spool starts to turn, its fine without the clicker now with the little bit of grease, what drag grease did you use for your reel ?

 

Maybe the drag grease had something to do with the jerkyness of your drag.

[LB]

4 hours ago, Julian. said:

No the drag washers where completly dry, its a bit smoother now but the clicker is still a problem, its so bad and it makes the drag very jerky and there is way too much resistance because of the clicker when the spool starts to turn, its fine without the clicker now with the little bit of grease, what drag grease did you use for your reel?

 

Maybe the drag grease had something to do with the jerkyness of your drag.

The drag clicker could be fine tuned some but then you lose some of the clicking noes that it makes, l have about 50% of my hearing so fishing on the beach l would hear nothing from the drag.

The Teflon grease l'm using was made up specifically for the company l was working for it's a Teflon base grease light weight to be used on bushings and friction fiber discs plates, l have had the grease since 1995, l'm down to my last baby jar and its half full.

 

Show me how the clicker sits mounted on the spool and position the arm to be dead center between the teeth, if the arm is sitting tight at the bottom of the V that could make the spool hard to turn on a light drag, if that is the case leave a gap between the arm and the bottom of the V between the teeth, clicker might not sound loud but that should make the spool turn easier.

 

[Julian.]

6 hours ago, LB said:

The drag clicker could be fine tuned some but then you lose some of the clicking noes that it makes, l have about 50% of my hearing so fishing on the beach l would hear nothing from the drag.

The Teflon grease l'm using was made up specifically for the company l was working for it's a Teflon base grease light weight to be used on bushings and friction fiber discs plates, l have had the grease since 1995, l'm down to my last baby jar and its half full.

 

Show me how the clicker sits mounted on the spool and position the arm to be dead center between the teeth, if the arm is sitting tight at the bottom of the V that could make the spool hard to turn on a light drag, if that is the case leave a gap between the arm and the bottom of the V between the teeth, clicker might not sound loud but that should make the spool turn easier.

 

Ok sounds like that grease is pretty good for reel drags, weird that greasing the drag made it jerky.

 

Yea i already messed around with clicker tension, and yea its pressed against the bottom of the teeth, it was like that when i got it and i made it a bit looser but there is basicly no middle ground, eighter the drag sounds like a normal reel drag or you are barely able to hear it and even in freshwater applications at lakes and stufd like that i would not be able to hear it with all the ambient sounds.

 

It would be even worse in saltwater, with waves and maybe some wind it would be impossible to hear the clicker.

 

Thats why im gonna change out the clicker, im just honna remove the rod and the flat spring and im gonna clamp down a one piece flat clicker under that little block that holds the clicker assembly.

 

I really like those old style clickers, they sound pretty good and they dont break, atleast i never had one break (picture attached).

[LB]

Take a picture of the underside of the spool with the clicker in place, the VS100 looks about the same shape but with a different type of mounting.

 

l made these clickers and spring holder when l was still working to replace the OEM clicker the VS clicker spring would often break l made the springs out of Titanium.

 

 

5 hours ago, Julian. said:

I really like those old style clickers, they sound pretty good and they dont break, atleast i never had one break

Way the old clicker sounded good was because most of the spools were cast alum. they had a loud ring to them, and most spooling are still made that way today other than VS, VS spools are made from solid bar stock alum. it will not ring like cast alum.

[Julian.]

22 mins ago, LB said:

Take a picture of the underside of the spool with the clicker in place, the VS100 looks about the same shape but with a different type of mounting.

 

l made these clickers and spring holder when l was still working to replace the OEM clicker the VS clicker spring would often break l made the springs out of Titanium.

 

 

Way the old clicker sounded good was because most of the spools were cast alum. they had a loud ring to them, and most spooling are still made that way today other than VS, VS spools are made from solid bar stock alum. it will not ring like cast alum.

I was thinking about making a clicker from spring steel or just from a piece of feeler gauge that you can snap off from a roll that would probably work too and i could also try titanium i just dont have a thin titanium plate to make one i would have to order some, what thickness was the titanium you used for the clicker? 

I will do that if the feeler gauge steel doesnt work, it should work i will do a little bit of testing with different thickness of that stuff.

 

I really dont like the design of the original VR50 clicker (picture attached).

[LB]

Yep, now l remembers the clicker l did some services on the VR50 reels, so what spring are you changing? the one that is showing in the pic. that looks like a bow tie?

Play with it but from what l see there's not much you could do with the way it's made to get the sound you're looking for, that pin clicker is always riding on the teeth if you know that in mean.

 

l have seen this clicker before but l can remember on what reel, simple and it sound good.

Do you have this clicker? if so try mounting it on the spool and see what the sound would sound like or make one.