Africaster

PSA: New crack position - Transducer cover suspected culprit

13 posts in this topic

Just repaired a crack in Jlapenta’s PA. Crack was situated directly in front of the forward embedded nut for a transducer cover … exactly the same orientation as the cracks in the front portion of the mirage drive slot. We suspect it’s from the majority of the weight of the yak, when on shore, resting directly on the transducer cover (extra extended due to SI transducer)  …. like the fulcrum of a seesaw.  He’s had the BerleyPro for 3 years … but will be a potential risk for any make of transducer cover that extends below the level of the keel.
 

This is an educated guess and has not been categorically proven.

 

Crack can be seen in the center of the cleaned area …

 

FDC8567E-71DD-4D4A-B3EE-AF0761A4CEFD.jpeg.3be1448480c7b88bb34a8a16529e8663.jpeg

 

 

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6 mins ago, lafalot said:

Dang,  was thinking about getting a SI for my hobie. How bad is a crack in that area? 

Well, if left, you’d probably sink …

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Just now, Africaster said:

Well, if left, you’d probably sink …

Haha I guess I was trying to ask how hard is it to repair and if you think your repair will hold. I've never had to deal with cracks before but I've heard cracks in the drive well area can be "impossible" or at least very difficult to fix. Hoping that this type of crack wouldnt be one of those situations.

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3 mins ago, lafalot said:

Haha I guess I was trying to ask how hard is it to repair and if you think your repair will hold. I've never had to deal with cracks before but I've heard cracks in the drive well area can be "impossible" or at least very difficult to fix. Hoping that this type of crack wouldnt be one of those situations.

The repair is watertight … for now. Personally I think it’s good for at least another 3-5 years depending on how much pressure is placed on that spot. We cleaned the area, drilled a hole at the end of the crack, welded the crack closed inside the hull, embedded ss mesh on the outside and welded in extra plastic from the kit to make the area a little thicker. John is going to cover with marine goop as a “you never know” measure. Repair took about 1 beer, time wise …. although it is my 5th or 6th repair, so am getting a bit slicker each time.

Hardest part was finding the source of the leak … @jlapenta can detail all the steps he took to narrow down the location

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9 hours ago, dbjpb said:

Does JB weld work on plastic? It works well on paddle boards.

Anything that cures hard on a flexible surface is not going to hold well imo.

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Firstly, thanks to Brad for helping me find and fix the leak in my 2012 PA12

 

About a month ago, got back to launch site after 3 1/2 hours on the water and the hull was full of water.  Holy ****!!!!

 

Finding the exact location of the leak was a PITA.

  • Pressurizing the hull, spraying soapy water didn't reveal the leak.
  • Filling the hull with water didn't reveal the leak.
  • Took the boat down to the water.  Didn't leak when I was NOT in the boat.
  • Once I sat inside, after about 5 minute paddling, there was a small pool of water around the column which runs from the transducer mount on the bottom of the hull up to right behind the seat.
  • So, only when my fat ass was in the boat did it leak.
  • I could not see an obvious crack, so I made a visit to Dr. Callaway.
  • Brad's  picture above shows the location.
  • Repaired by
    • laying down a small section of stainless steal mesh on the underside of hull
    • Heated the mesh and pressed it into the hull with a plastic welder.
    • Once the mesh was embedded into the hull, melted some additional plastic rods to cover the mesh.
    • Applied a layer of Marine Goop over the repaired area,  as an additional protective layer.
    • Applied a layer of Marine Goop inside the hull as a protective layer.

We did a swimming pool test after repair, will do a fluke outing in the next days to verify the fix.

 

Brad's theory that pressure on the Berley Pro transducer cover seems reasonable.  I've been using it for 3 years.  

  • When transported in the back of my SUV, there is no weight on the cover, its outside the back of the SUv.
  • Each time its taken out of the car, its set down on the ground,  there would be fair amount of pressure on the cover.
  • I lift the Yak up to move it into the water, but there is definitely times where a bit of dragging occurs.
  • The Yak has been dropped a couple of times off the T-bar onto the ground, which couldn't be a good thing.
  • I'm not suggesting that you'll have the same  problem if you use Berley transducer cover.   When I was searching for "Leaks in Pro Angler Hull", I didn't see anyone else mention the issue.  Further, the crack was small, and relatively easy to fix.  Let's hope it holds up.

 

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On related note, consider stuffing the hull with pool noodles. I think all PAs as naturally buoyant  due to styro blocks inside, but pool noodles can only help

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9 hours ago, jlapenta said:

Firstly, thanks to Brad for helping me find and fix the leak in my 2012 PA12

 

About a month ago, got back to launch site after 3 1/2 hours on the water and the hull was full of water.  Holy ****!!!!

 

Finding the exact location of the leak was a PITA.

  • Pressurizing the hull, spraying soapy water didn't reveal the leak.
  • Filling the hull with water didn't reveal the leak.
  • Took the boat down to the water.  Didn't leak when I was NOT in the boat.
  • Once I sat inside, after about 5 minute paddling, there was a small pool of water around the column which runs from the transducer mount on the bottom of the hull up to right behind the seat.
  • So, only when my fat ass was in the boat did it leak.
  • I could not see an obvious crack, so I made a visit to Dr. Callaway.
  • Brad's  picture above shows the location.
  • Repaired by
    • laying down a small section of stainless steal mesh on the underside of hull
    • Heated the mesh and pressed it into the hull with a plastic welder.
    • Once the mesh was embedded into the hull, melted some additional plastic rods to cover the mesh.
    • Applied a layer of Marine Goop over the repaired area,  as an additional protective layer.
    • Applied a layer of Marine Goop inside the hull as a protective layer.

We did a swimming pool test after repair, will do a fluke outing in the next days to verify the fix.

 

Brad's theory that pressure on the Berley Pro transducer cover seems reasonable.  I've been using it for 3 years.  

  • When transported in the back of my SUV, there is no weight on the cover, its outside the back of the SUv.
  • Each time its taken out of the car, its set down on the ground,  there would be fair amount of pressure on the cover.
  • I lift the Yak up to move it into the water, but there is definitely times where a bit of dragging occurs.
  • The Yak has been dropped a couple of times off the T-bar onto the ground, which couldn't be a good thing.
  • I'm not suggesting that you'll have the same  problem if you use Berley transducer cover.   When I was searching for "Leaks in Pro Angler Hull", I didn't see anyone else mention the issue.  Further, the crack was small, and relatively easy to fix.  Let's hope it holds up.

 

The fact that you have a PA makes me feel slightly better.  I'm on a compass and I'm hoping 100 lbs less yak will be less pressure on that spot. I can't imagine trying to cartop that monstrosity. 

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Good fix description.

 

Recently removed the berley cover AND the transducer (Lowrance Hook 7 side scan) on a 2018 Outback that I purchased used last year.  I often drag the yak up onto docks to avoid concrete ramps.  The extended transducer cover would  get "caught" and I couldn't set the yak down as the rear weight would cause it to slide back in the water.  

 

Also would get stuck when sliding in and out of the pick up bed.  

 

Darn thing drove me nuts and I didn't even use the side scan.

 

Replaced with a Lowrance transducer that fits back into the housing and remains covered.

 

 

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