gellfex

Door jamb from 1x6, do you round over the corner with a router?

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Don't mean to flood the forum today but got a lot going on!  I'm framing a couple of doors with nonstandard walls so I plan to rip down 1x6 primed fingerjoint board. Leaving the corners sharp seems asking for damage, when I buy primed jamb the corner is rounded over, should I round this over with the router, or just break it good with sandpaper? I have a 1/8 radius roundover router bit. 

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I always break corners/edges. Router is clean and consistent but a few passes with a sanding block is more than enough. 

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3 hours ago, gellfex said:

Don't mean to flood the forum today but got a lot going on!  I'm framing a couple of doors with nonstandard walls so I plan to rip down 1x6 primed fingerjoint board. Leaving the corners sharp seems asking for damage, when I buy primed jamb the corner is rounded over, should I round this over with the router, or just break it good with sandpaper? I have a 1/8 radius roundover router bit. 

I did a job just like this. Used full 1x5 pfj for casing because it needed to cover damaged horsehair from the antique 4" casing that was torn out. Bumped into one of them with my tool belt and chunked the edge. Your instinct if correct.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Always, I mean always ease the edges of any door and jamb material. This includes if you rip a door or especially cut the bottom. Not just sharp edges, but if it's an MDF or even mahogany blank door the chances of a cut toe and or tear out of laminate is great. Even a grab on a carpet can ruin a door real quick if the edge isnt eased.

 

I use a small hand sized block plane, then run 100 grit sandpaper over.

 

Edited by Ben Lippen

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I routed the jambs, but now this project is turning into a complete clusterf**k. I ripped out an old 24-in door and am opening it up to 2 18" French doors. I just discovered the wall is a half inch out of plumb!  I guess the only thing to do is shim and fill under the casing, what a mess!

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