tsitsop

Kayak Anchor Setup

20 posts in this topic

Hey All,

I purchased a 12ft Perception Pescador Pro last summer and am gearing it up for the season. I didn't have an anchor but quickly realized I need one. I primarily fish saltwater (Buzzard's Bay, Deer Island, Quincy, etc). Will be fishing all sorts of bottoms depending what I'm going for.  I want to outline my thought process and get any feedback from more experienced guys.
 

  • 3lb grapnel anchor
  • Chain (necessary? was thinking 3ft should be plenty, not sure how thick it should be)
  • Dive reel with 150ft of rope  (should allow me to anchor properly in 20ft water, right?)
  • Buoy (above handle in case need to drop anchor - could probably just use pool noodle?)
  • Anchor trolley
  • Quick release clip (attaching the reel to the boat/trolley)

 

Is there anything else I'm missing? Thanks

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You might consider a DIY reef anchor instead of grapnel. It's virtually impossible to lose it in rocks. With #4 copper arms they hold a kayak but bend if you pull hard enough. This weighs less than 3#. The 3/4 tube is 8" long filled with lead.

 

5f9b2913dd898_reefanchor.PNG.77d49a2a08e4e940d6f27540ee803e45.PNG

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22 hours ago, tcal4404 said:

I don't have much experience anchoring but am working on getting my setup going this year. Looks like you may need a zig/zag cleat as well. Found this guide below which looks helpful

 

https://www.****.blog/blog/a-guide-to-anchoring-a-fishing-kayak

Yeah, I've seen that one as well as this guide. The biggest question I have relates to the necessity of the lower chain, but I'll look around a bit more

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20 hours ago, gellfex said:

You might consider a DIY reef anchor instead of grapnel. It's virtually impossible to lose it in rocks. With #4 copper arms they hold a kayak but bend if you pull hard enough. This weighs less than 3#. The 3/4 tube is 8" long filled with lead.

 

5f9b2913dd898_reefanchor.PNG.77d49a2a08e4e940d6f27540ee803e45.PNG

What would approx cost & tools needed be for this? Is it made up of two 3ft copper arms, the tube, a couple caps, and some lead? 

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40 mins ago, tsitsop said:

What would approx cost & tools needed be for this? Is it made up of two 3ft copper arms, the tube, a couple caps, and some lead? 

Exactly, but no caps, I plugged the bottom end up with "duct seal" electrical putty before pouring the lead. I melted the lead in a dollar store steel ladle with a plumbing torch. Do that outside!

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I don't like anchoring kayaks as I mostly fish fast tidal / moving water and have witnessed how quick control can be lost. 

 

There are lots of anchors available for cheap and they can be even cheaper than what we are paying for some of our tackle. Still, nobody likes to lose equipment. 

 

What to get? Depends on the bottom you are trying to hold to and the force of water / wind you are up against. Some work too well and as a result, subject to loss. 

 

Hard to tell from the pic but you look closely, you'll notice a zip tie used to act as a sacrificial release if ever needed. I have honestly never needed to do this but also don't use an anchor much. Also, not going to claim to have invented this idea but it does work. 

 

IMG_0887.jpg.7467233e21331f95799f349f34e57f92.jpg

Edited by NHAngler

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3 hours ago, gellfex said:

Exactly, but no caps, I plugged the bottom end up with "duct seal" electrical putty before pouring the lead. I melted the lead in a dollar store steel ladle with a plumbing torch. Do that outside!

Ok thanks, I'll consider this method. Do you think I need to have a length of chain from anchor to the line?

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2 hours ago, NHAngler said:

I don't like anchoring kayaks as I mostly fish fast tidal / moving water and have witnessed how quick control can be lost. 

 

There are lots of anchors available for cheap and they can be even cheaper than what we are paying for some of our tackle. Still, nobody likes to lose equipment. 

 

What to get? Depends on the bottom you are trying to hold to and the force of water / wind you are up against. Some work too well and as a result, subject to loss. 

 

Hard to tell from the pic but you look closely, you'll notice a zip tie used to act as a sacrificial release if ever needed. I have honestly never needed to do this but also don't use an anchor much. Also, not going to claim to have invented this idea but it does work. 

 

IMG_0887.jpg.7467233e21331f95799f349f34e57f92.jpg

Yeah, is this the idea outline in this video? That was my original plan

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2 mins ago, tsitsop said:

Ok thanks, I'll consider this method. Do you think I need to have a length of chain from anchor to the line?

I haven't. IMO if you need chain with this after putting out 4x your depth in scope perhaps you shouldn't be anchoring. It doesn't take much to hold a kayak in moderate wind or current.

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3 hours ago, gellfex said:

I haven't. IMO if you need chain with this after putting out 4x your depth in scope perhaps you shouldn't be anchoring. It doesn't take much to hold a kayak in moderate wind or current.

Be careful. Anchoring a kayak can = badness. part of what makes a kayak safe is it bounces over swells and drifts with current without swamping.

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2 hours ago, Tom Angler said:

Be careful. Anchoring a kayak can = badness. part of what makes a kayak safe is it bounces over swells and drifts with current without swamping.

Thanks Tom, I can see that you're new, but we've had a lot of these discussions. IMO what makes the difference is having good judgment. I started sailing 50 years ago, and kayaking whitewater 33 years ago. People who get into trouble are the ones who don't really understand how water works, and how current acts to flip the kayak.  

 

Honestly, good judgment is the key to all safe kayaking, never mind anchoring. You need to assess every aspect of your gear and your skills for the conditions you are preparing to encounter.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

9 mins ago, gellfex said:

Thanks Tom, I can see that you're new, but we've had a lot of these discussions. IMO what makes the difference is having good judgment. I started sailing 50 years ago, and kayaking whitewater 33 years ago. People who get into trouble are the ones who don't really understand how water works, and how current acts to flip the kayak.  

 

Honestly, good judgment is the key to all safe kayaking, never mind anchoring. You need to assess every aspect of your gear and your skills for the conditions you are preparing to encounter.

Roger that. I am newish to this site but i have been kayak fishing since 2007. Not 50 years! You have no doubt seen some stuff.

 

Edited by Tom Angler

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I anchor quite a bit under a bridge at a pass here. I’ll pick the lee side of a running tide, there is typically a less water draw on one side of a bridge as opposed to the other side. The current is less but still a good bit. 
 

the biggest trick is I use a anchor trolley so the anchor line is close to the bow and more normal than a broadside anchoring. I also use more road out than less. You don’t want that line straight down, you want a deg of angle between you and that anchor. 
 

i also keep an eye all the time on changes to the water. Boat traffic, wind direction all come into play. When’s the peak of the tide, moon tides. Use the lower speed hours of the moon tides, should you fish those days. 
 

lastly, use your best judgement. I’ve anchored up and decided this wasn’t going to work. Just moved on. 

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