Nick T

Incapable of rigging swimbaits on a jig head

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I tend to take any marker (sharpie, dry erase, any). 

 

Line up the hook on the bait. 

 

Put a dot where the hook exits the bait. As i thread it in, goes me a good approximate exit indicator.

 

For weedless types, i dot the belly entry and back exit as a rough indicator.

 

You can usually see the hook if you use a small flashlight. Just be careful not to blind yourself.. maybe cover the light with some tape..

 

 

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1 hour ago, bass11 said:

It can make a difference in casting distance.  Crooked baits catch a lot of wind and tend to twirl.

I’m laughing a bit, right now,  because I’ve never actually considered any type of rubber mounted to a jig head to be a particularly far casting lure.

But now you’ve got me thinking it’s been my sloppy rigging all along.

Ahhhhhh, on second thought, forget it.

I ain’t changing a thing.

Thanks for turning on the lightbulb in my head and for the chuckle.

Cheers.

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10 hours ago, Nick T said:

Hello all,

I bought a variety of swimbaits (Fin-S-Fish and Diesel Minnowz) in the 5 to 7 inch range. For the life of me, I cant seem to rig them on a jig head. I mustve wasted about 10 of them, and I still cant get it right. Does anybody else struggle with this?

I don't have any problem getting it right the first time, the thing is you have to go slow pay attention and keep calm when you do it because if any of those three things are out of order or outside of what I just said you're going to get frustrated and it's not going to be straight.

It's a simple thing really but it's the actual execution that makes a big difference, go slow remain relax and keep close attention to what you're doing.

 

HH

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Posted (edited)

10 hours ago, Nick T said:

Theyre the V-lock jig heads by Fish Head. At first I thought my problems may be due to the V-lock but when I trimmed it down I still had issues

 

9C425A83-5C6F-4D47-AEF0-70B89EA94418.jpeg

If the soft plastic has a slender profile that jig head will wreck them.

 

Take your time and hold the jig next to the soft plastic. Mark on top of the bait where the hook point is supposed to come through. 
 

On the diezel minnowz you have to rig zmans a special way. Thread jig head through center of the front into the slit on botttom. You need to pull on the top and bottom to pull the elaztec over the the barbs of the jig head and it will lock on. Then just stick the hook point through in the slit where the hook is going to come out straight. 

Edited by ATBfish

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7 hours ago, EricL said:

I tend to take any marker (sharpie, dry erase, any). 

 

Line up the hook on the bait. 

 

Put a dot where the hook exits the bait. As i thread it in, goes me a good approximate exit indicator.

 

For weedless types, i dot the belly entry and back exit as a rough indicator.

 

You can usually see the hook if you use a small flashlight. Just be careful not to blind yourself.. maybe cover the light with some tape..

 

 

:th:EricL:th:If you are just starting out duraplastic can be a nightmare

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with a fin-s start the hook dead center and make sure the point comes out in the center of the letters on the lure  

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If you’re not fishing too deep you can use a weighted hook, zman and  mustad make good ones. For deeper fishing or in faster current you ca use a zman Texas eye or Texas eye xl

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Do what drmeva #9 and Skunkoff #11 said.  To add to their advice, I sometimes use a standard Sharpie pen and place a small black dot right where I want the hook to come out of the back (top) of the lure.  Then slowly and in a well-focused mental state, start lacing the jig into the nose of the lure all the way down to the black dot.  The important part is to keep the hook centered in the lure’s body as you push down to the black dot.  Then bring the hook point out through the center of the black dot.
BTW, I would definitely advise to trim back both barbs halfway, otherwise, those overly long barbs may split the head of the soft plastic lure.  Oh, and then it’s the 3 Ps… practice, practice, practice.
 

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It sounds like most of you just rig it the traditional way. Some of you have suggested a easier method which may not be quite as sturdy (in terms of keeping the hook in place). I have not fished it but I did find it quite a bit easier. I found a YouTube video to visualize it.

 

 

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On keeping with the hook point centered (width-wise) while going thru the bait…

I like to keep the portion of the bait where the hook point is in between my thumb and index finger. As the hook progresses I readjust my grip,  inching along to the exit point. If I rush and don’t inch along I usually mess up and have a bait that’ll look like it can go around corners. 

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A little touch of mineral oil on the nose, right where the hook point goes in, makes it a lot easier to thread the plastic on.  Wrks on all plastic tails.  

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Hold the swimbait next to the hook shank with the nose even with the back of the jib head. Mark the top with a sharpie. Feed the bait upside down onto the hook point and bring the point out through the dot or close. That should do it.

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10 soft plastics while learning to thread a hook really isn't too bad.  It just takes time to get the feel for it.  15 years later, I still screw it up every once in a while.  

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Having rigged what seems like a couple thousand and wrecking a lot more I can say unless the bait is on the thicker side you're gonna wanna use a jig head with a more slender collar than that. You might wanna start with a bag of cochahoe minnows. 50 pieces for 15 bucks. They catch fish and you don't worry if one gets a little wonky and you pitch it. 

I prefer a jig head like the one below. It works for all plastics especially thin stuff like flukes and fin s fish. Little dot of gel super glue will keep it stuck. 

IMG_20211014_200731286.jpg

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On 5/6/2022 at 7:59 PM, Sudsy said:

 I still for the life of me can't get a rigging needle through a sluggo or rubber eel perfectly straight.

 

Practice... practice..... practice

 

I bought some 10" and 12" upholstery needles:howdy:  

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