Goldy

NLBN Shads and Jig Heads

Rate this topic

223 posts in this topic

8 mins ago, levari said:

What is the size of your leader? 60lb ? 80lb?

hey Levari - I don't recall that specifically but I would guess no more than 50#. if that was the time I think it was, i think it was much lighter, i was more innocent back then and thought that fish care about mono diameter.

 

So that was likely 30# 832 braid into 30# mono with a FG knot. if I had a bite tippet on that, then blood knot into 50# most likely. 

 

Now I am much less concerned about scaring fish, after losing some serious, 40"+ snook to breakoffs. you know what their gill plates are like and when they jump, they can come down and 30# gets sliced pretty easily. So now my regular Century/VR125 has two spools, one is 30# into 30# with 50# to the lure. The other is 40# into 50# and tipped with either 65 or 80#.

 

There is a guy I know around here who I refer to as the jack-whisper because if there are big jacks around, he will find them. His standard JC setup is 65# braid into 200# mono to the lure. That's what I am running on the purple rod. But he goes up to 400# mono when throwing plugs to blacktips. Zcoker uses a length of wire but this other guy, and many of the younger guys I know, use 200-400# mono for sharks on topwater lures to get the most action out of them. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

29 mins ago, flyangler said:

hey Levari - I don't recall that specifically but I would guess no more than 50#. if that was the time I think it was, i think it was much lighter, i was more innocent back then and thought that fish care about mono diameter.

 

So that was likely 30# 832 braid into 30# mono with a FG knot. if I had a bite tippet on that, then blood knot into 50# most likely. 

 

Now I am much less concerned about scaring fish, after losing some serious, 40"+ snook to breakoffs. you know what their gill plates are like and when they jump, they can come down and 30# gets sliced pretty easily. So now my regular Century/VR125 has two spools, one is 30# into 30# with 50# to the lure. The other is 40# into 50# and tipped with either 65 or 80#.

 

There is a guy I know around here who I refer to as the jack-whisper because if there are big jacks around, he will find them. His standard JC setup is 65# braid into 200# mono to the lure. That's what I am running on the purple rod. But he goes up to 400# mono when throwing plugs to blacktips. Zcoker uses a length of wire but this other guy, and many of the younger guys I know, use 200-400# mono for sharks on topwater lures to get the most action out of them. 

Thanks Tom, I don’t get it. Last time I went fishing I was using 65# braid with FG to 125# leader. My leader is tied to the lure with perfection loop. You come up with 3 numbers. How many sections do you have on your line from the spool to the lure ?

What do you mean by “tipped”?

Edited by levari

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 mins ago, levari said:

Thanks Tom, I don’t get it. Last time I went fishing I was using 65# braid with FG to 125# leader. My leader is tied to the lure with perfection loop. You come up with 3 numbers. How many sections do you have on your line from the spool to the lure ?

What do you mean by “tipped”?

Either two or three sections based on fish sought and rig used. I am using the concept of "bite tippet", borrowed from fly fishing. 

 

Light rig: 20-30# braid with short FG into 4-6' of matching mono/flouro of same rating.

 

Medium rig: 40# braid with medium FG into 4-6' of 40# mono/flouro blood knot to 2-3' of 50# mono/flouro

 

Heavy rig: 50-65# braid with long FG into 6-8' of 125-200# mono

 

Ex-heavy rig: 65# braid with long FG into 4-5' of 125# mono into 400# swivel with 4' 400# mono on terminal end. I have yet to master a knot for 400# mono so I use crimps both to the swivel and to a 200# split ring or 175# TA clip on the lure end. 

 

I have a Saragosa 10k spooled with 85# 832 that is supposed to be my "shark lure" reel, but I never use it. The 85# just not cast as well as 65 and I would prefer the extra capacity for longer runs than higher line rating. 85# braid likely breaks well above 100#, who needs that on a spinning reel? 

 

Since braid is rated at 20-50% over the label, the weak spot will mostly be the mono for the first two rigs. I don't use a class length of mono on the heavier ones and have only had to force break off once. 

 

Unless fishing really short mono leader, I reel the FG into the guides on every cast.  

 

While I have had break offs with all of these rigs, I have never had a FG fail with the mono pulling through the braid coils. 

 

I use blood knots to connect mono to mono, though many prefer double Uni. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

About 20 years ago I met a guy named Hogan. He tried to sell me some eels with the hook molded into the plastic. It was about 4 times the price of what I was currently paying for unrigged eels. I thought that any real Striper angler isn’t going to pay these prices.  I was wrong, Hogy lures are everywhere and the line has expanded to include many new items. If he isn’t a millionaire by now he sure deserves to be. I have some friends that are dedicated to NLBN lures and they swear by their effectiveness.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, flyangler said:

no, i don't. there are limits to that particularly solution  as the longer the rod, the higher the center of gravity and the more swing it will exhibit. the combination of length and weight is another complication. so it is usually two rods that are 7-8' and under 2oz rating, one loaded with a popper and the other a paddle tail. 

 

the 10' suzuki is light and can be used that way, I have done it. but it does tend to sway and you have to nudge it back into position. I have considered using a length of paracord to secure the Suzuki's butt to my leg, thinking it will cut on the sway, but I have never gotten round to experimenting with that. 

 

the issue in florida is you never know what might grab your lure, so you have to size your kit to cover everything from a 15" snook or lady fish up to a 15# jack or 40" snook. that is quite the range so unless you are contented in snapping off the big fish, gear is always heavier than the minimum for little fish. 

 

last autumn, during the mullet run, a guy was fishing with a "snook rod", classic 8' with 15-20# braid and 3000/3500 reel. I walked up on him when he was 10 minutes into a fight that was taking him up and down the beach as he chased the fish. clearly not a tarpon, no jumps, and unlikely to be a big shark, no bite off and he was gaining some line. that left either a big snook or a muscular jack. the guy was cursing at that point complaining about the fish potentially spooling him, etc. 

 

ten minutes after that, so 20+ minute fight, he brought a jack that went over 25 pounds that I tailed for him and brought it up on the beach. the guy was so disgusted with the fish that he did not even want to take a photo with it. he walked away complaining about being tired, hot, sweaty and how he should have broken it off....

 

moral of the story, don't fish under-gunned during periods where it can be anything out there. or, don't put so much value on your braid and just break it off. 

A 25# jack is a dream fish in NJ.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, flyangler said:

yeah, it has been in the Flatlander thread and the bigger surf bag discussion. I carry quite a bit in that little bag and on the belt. the photo shows the range of sizes needed since you never know if the day's bait will be small or large mullet, pilchards or sardines. 

 

I have trying to slim down the weight over the past year or so. for example, I have given up carrying the leader spools based on advice from @PlumFishing - I now simply coil 20' lengths of 20, 30, 50 and 80# in separate ziplock bags and tuck them into the bag behind the tubes. I also have dropped the dehooker and the EMT scissors. but I have added a small molle pouch to hold binoculars and a couple other small items. 

 

hey Goldie, check out that white paddle below with the standard jig head, they work....

 

ETA: The photo is from my days before NLBN entered the rotation. 

 

400F03BC-2E54-49E3-87DA-EA71E24F0BFA_1_105_c.jpeg.25420ce21e97067e90af3b0ca25a52a9.jpeg

 

835D3562-19DE-4EF6-ACA0-7014AE58B8C2_1_105_c.jpeg.99ee6c3787247eb7c674f21e5936f26a.jpeg

Tom - big money in those hogy protails.  
 

i see the white shad. To all the shad snobs the water displacement idiots

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom - back on topic. Gimme ur opinion on hogy protail vs nlbn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 min ago, Goldy said:

Tom - big money in those hogy protails.  
 

I could show you all of the bitten off tales or the stripped heads. I spoke to someone at Hogy about a year ago about a trade-in program but don't believe anything came of it. My suggestion was a discount code for every "dead" Hogy you send back to them. My guess is they found that logistically difficult, though I told them they would start to be challenged by NLBN and other upstarts. 

1 min ago, Goldy said:

i see the white shad. To all the shad snobs the water displacement idiots

:point:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 mins ago, flyangler said:

I could show you all of the bitten off tales or the stripped heads. I spoke to someone at Hogy about a year ago about a trade-in program but don't believe anything came of it. My suggestion was a discount code for every "dead" Hogy you send back to them. My guess is they found that logistically difficult, though I told them they would start to be challenged by NLBN and other upstarts. 

:point:

What size Jig head do u use and why not just shad bodies?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 mins ago, Goldy said:

Tom - back on topic. Gimme ur opinion on hogy protail vs nlbn

Well, then you have to add in Spooltek as well, no? And Gambler? 

 

Hogy when casting distance is paramount, wind in your face and you want to present a smaller profile relative to the weight. Minnow run too if tarpon are around and a light gauge hook won't do it. 

 

NLBN when in close, in the wash, shallow water and I want a relatively light bait that can present a bigger profile in the suds. Many guys throw those into moving current in inlets and around jetties. The can provide action even if not being retrieved. 

 

Spooltek, well, I have them, just don't use them as much as I once did, likely because of Hogy and NLBN. That said, when the mullet run is in full swing here, that larger Spooltek is a good call. 

 

B2665692-BE99-4062-87A4-633A7CC2243F_1_201_a.jpeg.abf6153c5c926dbc4de05d08223a69b0.jpeg

 

REgarding Hogy and those heavy hooks, this is a 4" that took this 100 pound poon. Note how the hook opened up in the process. 

 

1531CA9A-E116-408B-841C-ADADE2D23327_4_5005_c.jpeg.d2114e4a2efcce077c999e135e9e251f.jpeg

 

BEC28C83-2E32-4FB4-B72D-6EF18D8CF68C_1_105_c.jpeg.875bfd164bdcee5dec2936231bdc56a3.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

25 mins ago, Goldy said:

A 25# jack is a dream fish in NJ.   

Not quite 25, but it was fun, note the lure....

 

DD6B1E33-A75F-4DA4-8693-9C01C0161BBD_1_105_c.jpeg.baf083b118511ff655e19ece62adfdd2.jpeg

 

And those Spoolteks can catch "anything". 

 

797A3EF9-131A-411D-B5B2-817DE7600E4A_1_105_c.jpeg.7edef680959973f039ee3211afbac9c2.jpeg

Edited by flyangler

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

11 mins ago, Goldy said:

What size Jig head do u use and why not just shad bodies?

For NLBN, probably 3/4 to 1.5 oz. 

For biggest Gamblers up to 3oz. 

Hogys go to 3oz. 

 

I don't cast more than 3oz too often, except for big plugs into the wind, then move up to 4oz. 

 

 

 

Edited by flyangler

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, flyangler said:

Either two or three sections based on fish sought and rig used. I am using the concept of "bite tippet", borrowed from fly fishing. 

 

Light rig: 20-30# braid with short FG into 4-6' of matching mono/flouro of same rating.

 

Medium rig: 40# braid with medium FG into 4-6' of 40# mono/flouro blood knot to 2-3' of 50# mono/flouro

 

Heavy rig: 50-65# braid with long FG into 6-8' of 125-200# mono

 

Ex-heavy rig: 65# braid with long FG into 4-5' of 125# mono into 400# swivel with 4' 400# mono on terminal end. I have yet to master a knot for 400# mono so I use crimps both to the swivel and to a 200# split ring or 175# TA clip on the lure end. 

 

I have a Saragosa 10k spooled with 85# 832 that is supposed to be my "shark lure" reel, but I never use it. The 85# just not cast as well as 65 and I would prefer the extra capacity for longer runs than higher line rating. 85# braid likely breaks well above 100#, who needs that on a spinning reel? 

 

Since braid is rated at 20-50% over the label, the weak spot will mostly be the mono for the first two rigs. I don't use a class length of mono on the heavier ones and have only had to force break off once. 

 

Unless fishing really short mono leader, I reel the FG into the guides on every cast.  

 

While I have had break offs with all of these rigs, I have never had a FG fail with the mono pulling through the braid coils. 

 

I use blood knots to connect mono to mono, though many prefer double Uni. 

Thank you, clear as a crystal…

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Goldy said:

What do you and Tom think about think about NLBN sticking outside of my bullet head with water displacement

Just my .02.  I would fish a larger head with smaller bait as opposed to the way your pic shows.  Like flyangler said.  When you need a smaller presentation. But need to get it to where it needs to go.  Here I fish 1 and 1.5oz jigheads on 6in bass assasin sea shads short or long shank.  I'll fish this same jighead on a 4in keitech.  I find a jighead thats  matched like the NLBN creates a smoother swimming motion naturally/hydrodynamic.  As long as it is a quality bait/action that tail is gonna pump.  I have used smaller heads on bigger baits and find it can be somewhat erratic.  Not that it may be bad all the time, but I find much better results when matched or larger.  Depending on the bait body shape,  I will switch styles of head.  Smiling bill, teardrop, bullet. Whatever the situation and conditions call for..  I have had NLBN,s. Good baits but the cost is a little to steep for me.  I do plenty well with these!

20220321_182608.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.