Ed White

Pouring lead weights

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11 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

So,

I have been pouring some lead to make belly weights, and I'm trying to come up with a way to get a more consistent size, and especially weight, belly weights. A 15/32" diameter slug of lead (to fit a 1/2" hole) that is 7/16" long comes in around 14 grams, which is what I'm looking to use. My weight mold is drilled for that size, but I can't pour consistently enough to get consistent weights.

I've thought of using a sprue on top of that size cylinder in the mold, but haven't worked out how the get that shape in the mold. Unless I make a 2 piece mold, to put on top of my existing 2 piece mold,, which seems like overkill just to pour the 20-30 weights I'll need a year.

 

Anyone have an idea?

Edited by Ed White
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Ed, Don't know if this will help or not. i am new to building. i have been pouring into a 2 piece hard maple block a little longer then i need and then file  down the end till it makes the weight i want, then put in plug. the other thing i have done is to put the amount of weight i need in a tablespoon, melt it with a torch and pour direct in plug. 30grams or under only takes seconds to melt.

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Drill the hole a little deeper, them use a larger bit to drill the spruce hole the depth that you added to the hole. Now you have a reference point for where to cut the weight with gate shears. Other than that, you would need access to a mill to mill out a two part mold.

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this is simple as one can get .

find yourself a block or small flat stock/plate of alum.

drill your holes to size

melt your lead and pour it in the holes

while the lead is still liquid[if not hit again with a torch]

take a nice flat putty knife and scrap off the excess lead across the top

let cool and then tap the alum plate with a hardwood block as not to beat the crap out of the plate.

 

****before you start pouring make sure you carbon up the alum plate with a candle inside the holes.

 

****note that the lead will shrink in the middle as it cools....so you can make the depth of hole a tad deeper if need be.

 

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Thanks for the tips guys, I'll be trying them all out, and capesams, I used to leave a beater chisel right next to my weight mold, never thought to do it while the lead was liquid.....doh!

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I've been thinking about drilling a few pockets with a forstner bit into the top of a do-it mold.

Thoughts?

 

 

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380_Blank_Mold.jpg.1ff99e8522de1eb10b7a11953d07f853.jpg

Drill holes on the bottom sounds like a better idea. 

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Your never going to get consistent weights from lead because there are many different led alloys with different weights. 

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I’ve only been surfcasting a couple years and just started playing with a lathe this winter, but I’ve had good success using a steel sleeve and different size bolts that fit in it. The small one shown is 6 grams and the longer one is 14 grams.  These are about 3/8”wide. By using different size bolts (or washers to change the depth) you can get things pretty dialed in. I pour using a hotpot 4-20 and use a pair of pliers to hold the head of the bolt when I’m pouring….I wouldn’t want to make 500 doing this, but 20-50 take no time at all. Hope this helps

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If you don't want to pour check out air gun ammo. The bigger sizes vary by grains not huge differences. I use a bunch of 22 cal. bullet slugs typically 40 grain. Doubling up on 18 grain 22 caliber pellets work well. For the bigger stuff you can go up to 50 caliber. The Farragut guys and other LEO's used a 158 grain 38 cal slug to weight their darters. Pyramid Air check it out.

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