Vt coast

Water based head cement

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I’ve not used it before; but I needed something. This is pretty much for freshwater stuff…
Any thoughts either way? Thanks 

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14 mins ago, Vt coast said:

I’ve not used it before; but I needed something. This is pretty much for freshwater stuff…
Any thoughts either way? Thanks 

I bought the loon version recently.

I just wondered why they sell a separate thinner for a water based glue.

 

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40 mins ago, Kml said:

I bought the loon version recently.

I just wondered why they sell a separate thinner for a water based glue.

 

This is what I use. The cement gets tight after awhile. Loon says thin it with Loon Thinner or water. I decided not to do that.   I just ordered a bottle this past week and it was frozen on delivery and turned white.  They gave me credit for it but said reorder it when the weather gets nicer.  lol

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I haven’t used anything called head cement or anything marketed as fly tying cement in years. Sally hansens hard as nails. You can get it at any corner drug store. If it gets thick I throw it away and get another. 

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Fly Rite (Fly Tite) is odorless and non toxic / brain cell friendly.  It is denatured alcohol based. It is a penetrating head cement and is especially effective when setting clumps of hair (I probably used it 10 or 12 times while stacking the hair on the fly in my avatar). It is pretty stable in that it won’t thicken up for a few years.  Been using it for twenty something years.   I use Sally’s Hard as Nails as well.

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Yes I have the water base head cement can’t say it’s better   . Recently I’ve brushed on Crazy glue or Locktite about 1” or 2” to the thread just before the whip finish . I also been using it more for locking down weighted wraps  .
 

In the beginning I was noticing on V small flies thread was un wrapping after a few uses. That’s why I went to the “brush the thread “ methods . The old tiers used varnish.  

 

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Liquid Fusion works pretty good - you have to let it dry for about 24 hours.  It will thicken up over time.  I cut it with grain alcohol to thin it to a watery consistency.  You can cut it with water, but it will eventually thicken up again. It also dries quicker with the grain alcohol mix.  I'm going to experiment with Crafter's Pick, another water based non-toxic glue - It's supposed to have better 'sticking' with non-porous surfaces.  

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A purely unscientific test of some water based or otherwise non-toxic or low odor glues - Crafters Pick,E6000 Fabric Fuse and Liquid Fusion.

I glued dome and mylar tab eyes to a piece of  slinky fiber and let everything dry for 24 hours.

I  then give the slinky fiber a 'twist ' test to try and dislodge the eyes.  I also used my thumbnail to try and pop the eyes off.  The domed eye on the e6000 fabric fuse popped off with the thumbnail  test while all other eyes held. 

I soaked the slinky fiber in water for 6 hours or so and then repeated the tests  -  this time both eyes on the liquid fusion popped off, as did the dome eye on the crafters pick.  The mylar eyes stayed on for the crafters pick and the e600.  However, the Crafters Pick glue turned back to it's original white color, apparently reabsorbing some water.  The other two glues got a little milky/hazy from the immersion, something I've noticed in fishing flies tied with Liquid Fusion.   

 

No clear winner - but for fly tying, I'll 'stick' with Liquid Fusion and E6000.  

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Thanks for the test results...very helpful! 

Although Goop does have an odor, I've always found that eyes stuck on using it have remained stuck on. I also use it to repair just about everything. 

Edited by flysully

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Sorry but the question asked about water-based cement was as to their use as head cement. I don't have the answer as I use  Veniard  Cellire for my freshwater flies (I want glossy heads on my wet flies more so for streamers and Atlantic salmon flies, putting up to five coats to achieve that). And then I use Sally Hansen Extreme Wear for my saltwater flies. Would Cellire do as well on these? Maybe but I just went with what so many tiers recommended when I began tying saltwater flies eight years ago.

 

 As to water-based head cement, I just wonder if you can get a similar  glossy (and durable) head finish.

 

And to glue eyes (I use dome eyes) on my saltwater flies, I do what Jonny King suggested many years ago: put a drop of e-6000 adhesive on the material, press the eye on it and then cover the eye with Liquid Fusion making sure that this adhesive reached the material all around the eye. He added that, if glued this way, the material would come off the hook before the eye came off the material. I haven't lost an eye glued this way yet.   

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