Jig Man

gliders

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4 hours ago, TopStriperAngler said:

 

How'd you get the weights in the bottom of the plug? I put tape around my weights and left the tag end of the tape long so it stuck out of the mold and I could pull the weights to the bottom of the mold after pouring amazing casting resin. 

 

I had made a previous version with the weights attached to bottom of harness with glue. That made for a rolling glider i.e. that would turn on its side. Getting the weights at the bottom of the plug fixed that and got it more swimming side to side with back staying facing the sky.  

I tried some like you did, and had similar results. I had a hard time getting the lead to stay exactly where I needed it. In most cases, I just pour the plug, then drill out lead holes afterwards. Allows me to adjust the weight depending on what I need for that specific plug. I.e., add more lead if I want to work it deeper or in heavy current, less if I want to work it shallow. I have also done molds that have the weight holes predrilled so I just add lead afterwards. In both cases, plumbers epoxy putty over the holes to fill them in, then sand when dry. 

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1 hour ago, Ed White said:

I'm using some white cedar, very light stuff lighter than red I believe, I can't take red cedar dust anymore. And enough lead to sink a ship.

On the wood ones that I've done, I tend to go for lighter woods (white cedar or AYC) rather than heavier wood (birch, maple). I think the extra lead needed to sink them helps to drive the glider. I am not completely convinced that you need a real light wood, but do believe the lighter wood is better than heavier. That said, I know a number of musky gliders are made of maple and other hard woods. I am sure shape and lead location/amount also come into play.

 

You can also adjust the line tie up or down a little in cases where the glider is nosing up or down. 

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1 hour ago, TopStriperAngler said:

There's a good lurebuilding site out there that's like a wiki with a page of glider plans. I don't see any on there that are super-applicable to striper gliders but it's worth visiting because it has a lot of plans with profile and crossectional views. Lurebuilding101 gliders is what to look for online. 

Some of those plans could easily be adapted to striper lures. If nothing else, its a good place to start. Build one, see how it works, tweak from there.  They list gliders under "jerkbaits" on the site. The "stalker" or "EP" ones, I think, could be tweaked to something more striper friendly. 

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7 mins ago, Jig Man said:

On the wood ones that I've done, I tend to go for lighter woods (white cedar or AYC) rather than heavier wood (birch, maple). I think the extra lead needed to sink them helps to drive the glider. I am not completely convinced that you need a real light wood, but do believe the lighter wood is better than heavier. That said, I know a number of musky gliders are made of maple and other hard woods. I am sure shape and lead location/amount also come into play.

 

You can also adjust the line tie up or down a little in cases where the glider is nosing up or down. 

Do you find the vertical vs horizontal position of the line tie makes a difference?

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Just now, eelbasher said:

Do you find the vertical vs horizontal position of the line tie makes a difference?

Only for tweaking the action. Typically, if the action is off, the glider will nose up or down. Doing the line tie horizonal (like the ones in my photos) allows me to make minor adjustments if need be. 

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So, every new kind of lure has a learning curve, this was the beginning of mine.

IMG_20180408_091857547.jpg.c5df14b6f1284f9ee4eb7c49db32c952.jpg

 

A member here, Rui, was posting pictures of the gliders he was making, and I thought they looked pretty good, so I tried a couple, loosely based off his pics. Of course, I had no idea how he was weighting them, still don't. but these worked OK, 3 weights, front center and rear, and they were fine on open beach, but in any kind of current they laid on their side and swam in sideways.

 

And since I brought up Rui, I have a very sad glider story. A couple of years ago, Rui was at the Brookdale show, and I bought a 7" glider in Jersey Killer colors, to fish at the Cape Cod Canal. First time I fished it, I hooked up to a nice 20 lb fish, and landed it, and had to wait a bit while the guy next to me attempted to control his fish. He lost, so I bent down, grabbed my leader and gave it a tug, and came away with just leader. The fish flopped once, back in the water, and swam away with my glider firmly affixed to his face. All I could do was stare.

 

So if Rui sees this, I need another large glider. Hope I see you at Brookdale this year.

And if you want to buy a very nice plug, look up RG Lures. </end shameless plug>

 

Sharp eyed readers will notice that the scales are backwards on the top plug.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Ed White said:

So, every new kind of lure has a learning curve, this was the beginning of mine.

IMG_20180408_091857547.jpg.c5df14b6f1284f9ee4eb7c49db32c952.jpg

 

A member here, Rui, was posting pictures of the gliders he was making, and I thought they looked pretty good, so I tried a couple, loosely based off his pics. Of course, I had no idea how he was weighting them, still don't. but these worked OK, 3 weights, front center and rear, and they were fine on open beach, but in any kind of current they laid on their side and swam in sideways.

 

And since I brought up Rui, I have a very sad glider story. A couple of years ago, Rui was at the Brookdale show, and I bought a 7" glider in Jersey Killer colors, to fish at the Cape Cod Canal. First time I fished it, I hooked up to a nice 20 lb fish, and landed it, and had to wait a bit while the guy next to me attempted to control his fish. He lost, so I bent down, grabbed my leader and gave it a tug, and came away with just leader. The fish flopped once, back in the water, and swam away with my glider firmly affixed to his face. All I could do was stare.

 

So if Rui sees this, I need another large glider. Hope I see you at Brookdale this year.

And if you want to buy a very nice plug, look up RG Lures. </end shameless plug>

 

Sharp eyed readers will notice that the scales are backwards on the top plug.

 

 

 

 

 

 

No Brookdale this year sadly….and RG’s are no joke. Amazing work he does. I only have a few but would gladly take more 

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8 hours ago, Jig Man said:

Some of those plans could easily be adapted to striper lures. If nothing else, its a good place to start. Build one, see how it works, tweak from there.  They list gliders under "jerkbaits" on the site. The "stalker" or "EP" ones, I think, could be tweaked to something more striper friendly. 

 

I really liked the way they showed the cross section of the board and then the cross section of the shaped plug. Really a lot of those plugs you're just cutting out the shape in a board and then rounding off all the corners. Very much in keeping with your recommendation about flat sides. 

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On 1/20/2022 at 7:28 AM, lonellr said:

Awesome! I'm definitely following this thread. I just dipped my toes into the world of gliders. Finished my first batch to test out this season. After the first batch, I realized I definitely need to get a router.

 

 

Gliders.jpg

They all look great, but 2nd from right on the bottom is especially purty.

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Bodies are sealed, weights are in, and filled, almost time to paint, and my 10 year old compressor died. Parts inbound.20220122_111835.jpg.7693156630284eccf0e565bda64fa2bb.jpg20220122_112001.jpg.debda68be52b88309c04f825cee91f2f.jpg20220122_124032.jpg.01122271cf03379a9fdeac83964c9f91.jpg

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Posted (edited) · Report post

On 1/20/2022 at 3:51 PM, TopStriperAngler said:

There's a good lurebuilding site out there that's like a wiki with a page of glider plans. I don't see any on there that are super-applicable to striper gliders but it's worth visiting because it has a lot of plans with profile and crossectional views. Lurebuilding101 gliders is what to look for online. 

I know that site and found the 6 inch B-Flat and Diavani No-Twitch to be killer for stripers…..The No-Twitch works more like a crank bait. If you use dense wood like maple or oak,  a little weight will get them to swim sub surface. A little more gets them to sink slow. Too much and they lose the action. It’s a subtle difference. 

Edited by aae0130

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