Oakman

Circa 90's Delta Contractor Saw, motor?

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You know the one with the cast iron top and steel side tables.  The motor was slung off the back on a pivoting bracket and connected to the blade with a belt tensioned by the weight of the motor.  I have one disassembled and packed away so I can't get a picture at the moment.  I have all the pieces but I know it needs a motor.  Anyone know what it takes off the top of their head?

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Find the model plate on the saw and then Google. On classic tools there's tons out, there including parts lists. You can always kludge a motor on if you know the RPM and horsepower, but it's better to know what is actually supposed to go on.

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41 mins ago, gellfex said:

Find the model plate on the saw and then Google. On classic tools there's tons out, there including parts lists. You can always kludge a motor on if you know the RPM and horsepower, but it's better to know what is actually supposed to go on.

Yes I get that, but as I said, it's packed away at the moment so I can't access the plate.  Was hoping someone here had one. . .

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2 mins ago, Oakman said:

Yes I get that, but as I said, it's packed away at the moment so I can't access the plate.  Was hoping someone here had one. . .

Google images for 'delta table saw' till you find one that looks like it and follow the bread crumbs to a model number. I've done this a number of times. The biggest fail I've ever had was a super Dremel made by "Precision Tool'. That was un-Googleable!

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That saw takes a 56 frame 3450rpm single phase motor If you're buying a motor make sure you can reverse rotation. If I remember correctly the drive side is is on the left side facing the motor from the rear of the saw. Used these many years ago, great saw. Hung a 2 HP and 3 hp motors of these with no problem. Stock they came with either 1 or 1 1/2 hp (I would recommend nothing less than a 1 1/2 hp wire 220v . Use a power twist belt (a little expensive) but vibration is greatly reduced.

The motor mount should have bracket that regulates the fall of the motor make sure the bolt head is very loose.  Under severe load and binding the motor will jump toward the blade. Make sure the belt allows the motor to fall back far enough

to limit the jump

Great saw, if you can find cast iron extensions (unisaw fit) you'll have a good saw for many years. Had a beismeyer fence of mine. Arbor  bearings are a snap

to replace.

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1 hour ago, ed morini said:

That saw takes a 56 frame 3450rpm single phase motor If you're buying a motor make sure you can reverse rotation. If I remember correctly the drive side is is on the left side facing the motor from the rear of the saw. Used these many years ago, great saw. Hung a 2 HP and 3 hp motors of these with no problem. Stock they came with either 1 or 1 1/2 hp (I would recommend nothing less than a 1 1/2 hp wire 220v . Use a power twist belt (a little expensive) but vibration is greatly reduced.

The motor mount should have bracket that regulates the fall of the motor make sure the bolt head is very loose.  Under severe load and binding the motor will jump toward the blade. Make sure the belt allows the motor to fall back far enough

to limit the jump

Great saw, if you can find cast iron extensions (unisaw fit) you'll have a good saw for many years. Had a beismeyer fence of mine. Arbor  bearings are a snap

to replace.

+1 on the Power Twist belts, I have them on all my tools now. Except the table saw! It's a bizarre old Ryobi BT3000 that uses flat timing belts.

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15 hours ago, ed morini said:

That saw takes a 56 frame 3450rpm single phase motor If you're buying a motor make sure you can reverse rotation. If I remember correctly the drive side is is on the left side facing the motor from the rear of the saw. Used these many years ago, great saw. Hung a 2 HP and 3 hp motors of these with no problem. Stock they came with either 1 or 1 1/2 hp (I would recommend nothing less than a 1 1/2 hp wire 220v . Use a power twist belt (a little expensive) but vibration is greatly reduced.

The motor mount should have bracket that regulates the fall of the motor make sure the bolt head is very loose.  Under severe load and binding the motor will jump toward the blade. Make sure the belt allows the motor to fall back far enough

to limit the jump

Great saw, if you can find cast iron extensions (unisaw fit) you'll have a good saw for many years. Had a beismeyer fence of mine. Arbor  bearings are a snap

to replace.

Thank You!

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19 hours ago, gellfex said:

bizarre old Ryobi BT3000 that uses flat timing belts.

 

An underrated saw designed before Ryobi became a Home Depot sucker punch.  I've had both of mine since roughly 1997...to this day (1) sees weekly use (the other is fine but will likely be a parts donor as time wears on).

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23 mins ago, mako20ft said:

 

An underrated saw designed before Ryobi became a Home Depot sucker punch.  I've had both of mine since roughly 1997...to this day (1) sees weekly use (the other is fine but will likely be a parts donor as time wears on).

I agree it's an underrated saw, has a lot of clever features. Mine is also 97 and has cut one inch aluminum plate for me. I did have to replace the arbor & motor bearings a couple of years ago.

 

But I think the latest generation of Ryobi is also underrated. I bought some of their 18v to have redundancy since some of my tools are often on a job site and not in the home shop, and their 18 gauge nailer was less than half the price of Makita. I've been very happy with them, especially for the price! A friend who had a previous generation was really disappointed with the batteries, but I have not had that experience.

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I think this motor is pretty much alike my Powermatic 63: 1 1/2 HP (120v, 18A) (240v, 9A).

They run like garbage if trying to use it on the 120v wiring, but you can get by doing some light work.

I agree with others about the link belt, they work - trouble free.

 

 

 

 

Edited by chisler

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On 12/13/2021 at 9:57 PM, tjr said:

I have one (complete table saw) in my basement that you can have. Just get it up and out the Bilco doors. 

Hmmm, where are you located?  PM if you prefer. 
 

thank you for the offer!

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