Where to service my JDM Daiwa Certate LT 5000D?

[Pierce]

Japantackle do service JDM and overseas Daiwa with a bit of additional charges (if reel not bought from them). Only problem, their response is a bit slow 

[Mircopolo]

On 12/6/2021 at 3:48 PM, scoobydoo said:

Problem is the sideplate tool.....Tough to find....some are pricey...

Mine is 60$  

 

Then there is ferrofluid.

 

Along with a .5mm hex and 000 philips drivers that need to fit properly.

 

If you don't frequently service the latest japanny brands, you're not likely to be equipped to get in and out without battle wounds....

 

Which goes beyond the go slow and take photos and laying out parts in an order of operations.

Hi Scoobydoo, if this is Japanese than it isn't 000 phillips, but Japanese 000 JIS standard (Japanese Industrial Standard).

they are slightly different. I am working a lot w canon lenses and Phillips will destroy those tiny screws. Guys working on carburetors on snow mobiles like Honda, Yamaha will know. Yes you can use Phillips but must be careful. You can buy set of JIS online, they are not expensive.

[EricL]

ill be honest.

i own and use all JDM reels. mag seal or not. shimano or daiwa.

 

just make or buy the sideplate tool and DIY the service.
its just something youve signed up for when you buy a JDM item. no warranty from daiwa US.

unless money is not an issue. send it back to japan to service.

otherwise, dont buy it.

if you dont want to source mag oil/ferrofluid, just dont even worry about it.
on the spinners, its usually on 3-4 spots where they use it.

Just clean the mag rings all the old oil and lather semi-thick grease on the mag collar.

if you dont want to bother.
on boat or normal use, its fine.  it aint rocket science.

 

i use my Saltiga BJ to death, i DIY serviced it and didnt even put back the mag oil and its fine.

what difference is there comparing to my saltiga Zs that are 15+ years old?

If you want to dunk a reel, get a VS or similar. something thats designed to be waterproof.

mag seal reels arent meant to be crank underwater. no matter what direction you look at it from.

[scoobydoo]

3 hours ago, Mircopolo said:

Hi Scoobydoo, if this is Japanese than it isn't 000 phillips, but Japanese 000 JIS standard (Japanese Industrial Standard).

they are slightly different. I am working a lot w canon lenses and Phillips will destroy those tiny screws. Guys working on carburetors on snow mobiles like Honda, Yamaha will know. Yes you can use Phillips but must be careful. You can buy set of JIS online, they are not expensive.

There is no better than a 000 wera. Sorry should have specified brand... As it makes a difference 

 

Removing soft loc tite'ed screws in shimano reels is all the proof I need. 

It's the only Philips in my kit. Everything else is pozidriv. 

Size 0 wera grips better than jis... And that's side by side over hundreds of reels. 

Edited December 9, 2021 by scoobydoo

[Mircopolo]

18 hours ago, scoobydoo said:

There is no better than a 000 wera. Sorry should have specified brand... As it makes a difference 

 

Removing soft loc tite'ed screws in shimano reels is all the proof I need. 

It's the only Philips in my kit. Everything else is pozidriv. 

Size 0 wera grips better than jis... And that's side by side over hundreds of reels. 

Whatever works for you, good for you. Just saying, for very tiny screws I will find on lenses or camera bodies only JIS assure correct tightness. You certainly know that, but for guys who don't - Phillips or pozidrive is designed to slip after reaching certain torque (coming out) and JIS is not, it is more "pointy". For somebody who is using German tools everyday I can attest that Wera line of tools is excellent just like Knipex. Talking about Wera screwdrivers and I have them literally by dozens, as good as they come, for me nothing beats PB from Swiss Tools - although this suckers will cost you 3-5 times more then Wera. Just my personal preference.

[scoobydoo]

2 hours ago, Mircopolo said:

Whatever works for you, good for you. Just saying, for very tiny screws I will find on lenses or camera bodies only JIS assure correct tightness. You certainly know that, but for guys who don't - Phillips or pozidrive is designed to slip after reaching certain torque (coming out) and JIS is not, it is more "pointy". For somebody who is using German tools everyday I can attest that Wera line of tools is excellent just like Knipex. Talking about Wera screwdrivers and I have them literally by dozens, as good as they come, for me nothing beats PB from Swiss Tools - although this suckers will cost you 3-5 times more then Wera. Just my personal preference.

What's interesting about pbswiss. 

They don't fit worth a damn.. Torx or Philips on fishing reels. 

I have about a dozen of their bits and only use a size 0 because it's bright green and easy to grab when in a rush. 

 

The Dewalt electric screwdriver with the built in gyro is a godsend. 

I've turned on a few high volume service centers to them and they love it. 

Check that out if you haven't already. 

It's the only Dewalt product I own... As I'm a makita Milwaukee guy for power tools.... But damn is it a perfect tool for fishing reels, both large and small cheap and snazzy jdm

[albacized]

23 hours ago, ooeric said:

ill be honest.

i own and use all JDM reels. mag seal or not. shimano or daiwa.

 

just make or buy the sideplate tool and DIY the service.
its just something youve signed up for when you buy a JDM item. no warranty from daiwa US.

unless money is not an issue. send it back to japan to service.

otherwise, dont buy it.

if you dont want to source mag oil/ferrofluid, just dont even worry about it.
on the spinners, its usually on 3-4 spots where they use it.

Just clean the mag rings all the old oil and lather semi-thick grease on the mag collar.

if you dont want to bother.
on boat or normal use, its fine.  it aint rocket science.

 

i use my Saltiga BJ to death, i DIY serviced it and didnt even put back the mag oil and its fine.

what difference is there comparing to my saltiga Zs that are 15+ years old?

If you want to dunk a reel, get a VS or similar. something thats designed to be waterproof.

mag seal reels arent meant to be crank underwater. no matter what direction you look at it from.

I'm curious about your mention of the Saltiga Bay Jigger, as I have one. It's sold here in the states, but they're branded as a JDM product. Does Daiwa USA service those

[EricL]

10 mins ago, albacized said:

I'm curious about your mention of the Saltiga Bay Jigger, as I have one. It's sold here in the states, but they're branded as a JDM product. Does Daiwa USA service those

i really dont know how their service takes it.
but 99% guess, they wont.  or it takes a massive long time to service, or costs more, etc etc.

i just DIY when its needed and dont even bother with sending it in.

i already have an extra gear set, and AR bearing,  so i dont worry about failures if i somehow manage to break it.

 

so to stay on topic.
if you buy JDM things. whether for a model or application. you might potentially save money compared to buying USDM. but your tradeoff is servicing. or you lose the money you saved if you have to send it to someone in the US to service.   so you might as well DIY it.

Edited December 9, 2021 by ooeric

[Mircopolo]

21 mins ago, scoobydoo said:

What's interesting about pbswiss. 

They don't fit worth a damn.. Torx or Philips on fishing reels. 

I have about a dozen of their bits and only use a size 0 because it's bright green and easy to grab when in a rush. 

 

The Dewalt electric screwdriver with the built in gyro is a godsend. 

I've turned on a few high volume service centers to them and they love it. 

Check that out if you haven't already. 

It's the only Dewalt product I own... As I'm a makita Milwaukee guy for power tools.... But damn is it a perfect tool for fishing reels, both large and small cheap and snazzy jdm

Well I didn't mean PBswiss for my precision jobs although they are leading supplier of tools in services and repair of medical equipment. Neither I suggest using individual bits but rather their sets. For reels power screwdriver is perfect but I wouldn't be using them on 6K camera or 20K lens.

Have been trying possibly every on of them

for my daily profession (robotics, electronics and computers) and for me the best and the one I am using for few last years is also DeWalt but bigger brushless Xtreme 12v cordless (DCF601B) with Wera bits.

Perfect, precise clutch, light and with 7Ah battery will last few days of heavy wiring.

And I can put it on table or bench and it'll stand up ready for next grab.

For small jobs- one of Wera sets or JIS.

I stayed away from gyroscoping, feeling it's to small/weak for wiring terminals plus add voltage not compatible with Dewalt 12 and 20 volts batteries. Following your recommendation I will order one tonight and give it a try on small electronic jobs.

Thanks Scooby-Doo. 

[Bogey]

One of the reasons I use mostly Penns is that none of the the problems iterated above exist at penn, maybe their QC needs help but parts are readily available and you don’t need to be a brain surgeon to fix them.

I haven’t brought a Diawa in many years and have five Shimanos that I don’t use and I’m happy

[scoobydoo]

14 hours ago, Mircopolo said:

Well I didn't mean PBswiss for my precision jobs although they are leading supplier of tools in services and repair of medical equipment. Neither I suggest using individual bits but rather their sets. For reels power screwdriver is perfect but I wouldn't be using them on 6K camera or 20K lens.

Have been trying possibly every on of them

for my daily profession (robotics, electronics and computers) and for me the best and the one I am using for few last years is also DeWalt but bigger brushless Xtreme 12v cordless (DCF601B) with Wera bits.

Perfect, precise clutch, light and with 7Ah battery will last few days of heavy wiring.

And I can put it on table or bench and it'll stand up ready for next grab.

For small jobs- one of Wera sets or JIS.

I stayed away from gyroscoping, feeling it's to small/weak for wiring terminals plus add voltage not compatible with Dewalt 12 and 20 volts batteries. Following your recommendation I will order one tonight and give it a try on small electronic jobs.

Thanks Scooby-Doo. 

I gave PB a whirl in the sizes that I needed most often  T8 t10 0 etc.......Sadly they didn't fit well in fasteners using those sizes in the fishing world....if they did fit I had to use force to get it to seat and then pull off the fastener.  They were pretty colors though

 

 

I understand about the need for torque.  When it is not rotating, it's fixed, just like a screwdriver...no clutch slip....makes it easy to crack fasteners out...

Rotate the wrist, and depress the trigger to crack free and spin out.

And spin it back in to the clutch setting, release trigger and snug tight....

Thousands of fasteners and no stripped threads or heads

 

Even in composite framed reels...I literally just inspected a prototype...buzzed it apart, snapped some pics and buzzed it back together......

That dewalt with the gyro is what I'd call a necessity for me at this point...Which is crazy considering that when I ordered it...I figured I'd be returning it the next day as some sort of gimmicky piece of junk....

I'm interested to see where it'd fit into your rotation.  As a former electrician....it'd be perfect for wiring devices and panels.

[scoobydoo]

15 hours ago, ooeric said:

i really dont know how their service takes it.
but 99% guess, they wont.  or it takes a massive long time to service, or costs more, etc etc.

i just DIY when its needed and dont even bother with sending it in.

i already have an extra gear set, and AR bearing,  so i dont worry about failures if i somehow manage to break it.

 

so to stay on topic.
if you buy JDM things. whether for a model or application. you might potentially save money compared to buying USDM. but your tradeoff is servicing. or you lose the money you saved if you have to send it to someone in the US to service.   so you might as well DIY it.

I've always felt that if you buy JDM.....you better be capable of self servicing....

20 years ago you were pretty much in the dark...not so bad with FW stuff....but saltwater equipment I avoided.

[EricL]

On 12/10/2021 at 9:50 AM, scoobydoo said:

I've always felt that if you buy JDM.....you better be capable of self servicing....

20 years ago you were pretty much in the dark...not so bad with FW stuff....but saltwater equipment I avoided.

yup

DIY is the way to go for most JDM.

but ive noticed alot of times the JDM versions for whatever, tends to not have as many lemons as the US variants.  so alot of times, i dont even need to repair them. only regular oiling.  but i could just be lucky on the bins/batches.

 

doesnt seeing an exposed legendary bronze main gear give you an itch to make some good ol teardown videos again? LOL

Edited December 13, 2021 by ooeric

[scoobydoo]

4 hours ago, ooeric said:

yup

DIY is the way to go for most JDM.

but ive noticed alot of times the JDM versions for whatever, tends to not have as many lemons as the US variants.  so alot of times, i dont even need to repair them. only regular oiling.  but i could just be lucky on the bins/batches.

 

doesnt seeing an exposed legendary bronze main gear give you an itch to make some good ol teardown videos again? LOL

LOLOL.....It actually did.....I've filmed 4 in the past few weeks.  

Editing them is the PITA part.

 

Now I need to figure out how to get the Certate sw drag stack apart.

 

[EricL]

20 mins ago, scoobydoo said:

LOLOL.....It actually did.....I've filmed 4 in the past few weeks.  

Editing them is the PITA part.

 

Now I need to figure out how to get the Certate sw drag stack apart.

 

its like the saltiga.  has a thin large collar ring that screws down the black clicker plate.

once you unscrew the collar, and a remove the center large circ clip.  the giant bearing and stack can come out of the spool

but be mindful of the clicker spring and pin. dont let it go boinnnng!

Edited December 13, 2021 by ooeric