shbeachbum

Shark Bite Coupling Question

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When trying to use a shark bite to repair a pin hole in a 1/2 inch exposed copper pipe in the basement, how much pipe do you need to cut away so the shark bite fits properly.   Thanks   Mike

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1 min ago, shbeachbum said:

When trying to use a shark bite to repair a pin hole in a 1/2 inch exposed copper pipe in the basement, how much pipe do you need to cut away so the shark bite fits properly.   Thanks   Mike

Assuming you got the repair coupling, which is different than a regular one, you need to remove enough so that when you slide the large end all the way on the coupler clears the other end. Does it not come with directions? If it didn't it did come with a removal ring right? once you cut the pipe, slide it on, and see how far short you come up, then depending on how loose you've got the pipes, cut the other one to clear, or remove the coupler and cut that end.

 

It should look like this with that 'slip end':

07828017.jpg?size=pdhi

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SharkBite Fitting Size Nominal
Pipe Size
Pipe OD Pipe Insertion
Depth (in.)
Pipe
Insertion Depth
(mm) 
1/4 in. 1/4 in. CTS 3/8 in. 0.82 21
3/8 in. 3/8 in. CTS 1/2 in. 0.94 24
1/2 in. 1/2 in. CTS 5/8 in. 0.95 24
5/8 in. 5/8 in. CTS 3/4 in. 1.13 29
3/4 in. 3/4 in. CTS 7/8 in. 1.10 28
1 in. 1 in. CTS 1-1/8 in. 1.31 33
1-1/4 in. 1-1/4 in. CTS 1-3/8 in. 1.88 48
1-1/2 in. 1-1/2 in. CTS 1-5/8 in. 2.05 52
2 in. 2 in. CTS 2-1/8 in. 2.19 56

 

 

Found this if it helps.It is on their website. Make sure you deburr the pipe too.

Edited by foxfai

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3 hours ago, foxfai said:
SharkBite Fitting Size Nominal
Pipe Size
Pipe OD Pipe Insertion
Depth (in.)
Pipe
Insertion Depth
(mm) 
1/4 in. 1/4 in. CTS 3/8 in. 0.82 21
3/8 in. 3/8 in. CTS 1/2 in. 0.94 24
1/2 in. 1/2 in. CTS 5/8 in. 0.95 24
5/8 in. 5/8 in. CTS 3/4 in. 1.13 29
3/4 in. 3/4 in. CTS 7/8 in. 1.10 28
1 in. 1 in. CTS 1-1/8 in. 1.31 33
1-1/4 in. 1-1/4 in. CTS 1-3/8 in. 1.88 48
1-1/2 in. 1-1/2 in. CTS 1-5/8 in. 2.05 52
2 in. 2 in. CTS 2-1/8 in. 2.19 56

 

 

Found this if it helps.It is on their website. Make sure you deburr the pipe too.

That won't help with the slip on repair coupling. Different animal.

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On 11/21/2021 at 0:00 PM, gellfex said:

Assuming you got the repair coupling, which is different than a regular one, you need to remove enough so that when you slide the large end all the way on the coupler clears the other end. Does it not come with directions? If it didn't it did come with a removal ring right? once you cut the pipe, slide it on, and see how far short you come up, then depending on how loose you've got the pipes, cut the other one to clear, or remove the coupler and cut that end.

 

It should look like this with that 'slip end':

07828017.jpg?size=pdhi

I used these last year-  pricey but made a repair easy-peasy

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7 mins ago, rathrbefishn said:

I used these last year-  pricey but made a repair easy-peasy

Yeah, I used them in a tenant's apartment so I didn't have to stink it up with soldering, or have to clear all her crap out of the closet I was working in. Nothing like labor saving tools! I'm currently loving using a new one handed pex clamp closer that is the sh*t compared to my old one that took a lot of room and 2 hands. 

 

apollo-pinch-clamp-tools-69ptbj0010c-c3_

 

 

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On 11/21/2021 at 0:00 PM, gellfex said:

Assuming you got the repair coupling, which is different than a regular one, you need to remove enough so that when you slide the large end all the way on the coupler clears the other end. Does it not come with directions? If it didn't it did come with a removal ring right? once you cut the pipe, slide it on, and see how far short you come up, then depending on how loose you've got the pipes, cut the other one to clear, or remove the coupler and cut that end.

 

It should look like this with that 'slip end':

07828017.jpg?size=pdhi

No I did not buy the fitting yet. Watched a few You Tube but still have the question: Say you cut the pipe off at 1 1/2 ".. You clean both ends, use the marking gauge for the proper depth on both pipes. You attach the slip end first then slide it back for the other pipe and line it up with the depth gauge mark. If the slip end side does not line up with the depth gauge mark, what does one do? What am I missing?

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Yer over thinking a wee bit there my friend. Ya see that "ring" around the non-slip end? Notice the distance from that end to the "ring". That is where the pipe will stop when you make the final slide on. Now notice the distance from there to the slip end.  Subtract the 1 1/2" if that is what they call for the cut to be. The slipped on pipe will still be within the parameters of the non slip end. That 'ring" is just the stop for you to make it work. Once the coupling is on, it will work.

Happy Thanksgiving to you and all of yours buddy :wave: 

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22 hours ago, Ben Lippen said:

Yer over thinking a wee bit there my friend. Ya see that "ring" around the non-slip end? Notice the distance from that end to the "ring". That is where the pipe will stop when you make the final slide on. Now notice the distance from there to the slip end.  Subtract the 1 1/2" if that is what they call for the cut to be. The slipped on pipe will still be within the parameters of the non slip end. That 'ring" is just the stop for you to make it work. Once the coupling is on, it will work.

Happy Thanksgiving to you and all of yours buddy :wave: 

Thanks John. Hope your turkey day was great. I spent mine with my 2 girls and their families.     Mike

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