dannyplug1

Balancing a rod with the right reel

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Recently I had a rod made up.  It’s the blank that lami glass sells finished: GSB81;MS it’s eight foot one piece, it has a line weight of 10-17, lure weight of 3/4-2 oz, action moderate, power medium.  I had the rod maker go old school with a cork tape handle so I could move the reel where it needs to be to balance the rod.  On that particular rod how much should the reel weigh to balance the rod? I have tried one that was 18 oz but it didn’t feel right.  I tried a twelve ounce reel and it felt great but it felt over matched when I hooked up on a seven pound blue.  Is there a way to determine the right weight of a reel for a particular rod.?  Is there a formula to decide how far the reel should be from the butt of the rod?  Is there a point on rod where a rod should balance?  Sorry for 5he confusing questions.  And thanks in advance for your expertise.  Charlie

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I have never once given any consideration to ‘balance’. It’s a meaningless thing that’s only important on the internet.

 

Any sensible build paired with any reasonable reel will be fine (don’t put a 2500 reel on a 11’ 3-6 rod, don’t put a vs250 on a 1/2-2 8’….). 

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1 hour ago, spoonplugger1 said:

How does a reel feel over matched, been fish

Overthunking. Maybe OP meant too felt too light or too small?

Modern tech has shrunk reels but given them pretty strong guts. Braid was the main reason for this tech advance - we can use smaller lighter reels.

I use as small as I can get away with.

My 400 Tranx is a case in point:

12oz

More than enough drag.

Takes 300m of 40lb without having to overfill it

Casts like a dream.

Why would I use a 22oz reel unless I can see myself being hit with a big enough wave to consider myself submerged and therefor need a waterproof reel?

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Charlie,

First off I would say you had a custom rod made to no reel. That’s the first problem.

If the rod was made to the reel it would balance perfect.

 

Have this blank set up for a VR 50 and it works great.


When you say overmatched do you mean too much or not enough?

If the rod was set up for the reel or the reel somewhat matches the rod,  a seven pound blue will be a nice fight on this rod.  A longer rod will make quicker work of the same size fish with either of your reels.

 

 

 

 

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If you want it balanced , put the reel on the rod and your two fingers in the front of the spinning reel , if it’s balanced it will stay there in that position. 
If it’s a tape cork Butt with no reel seat , then just move it to it balances itseft.  And tape it. 
 

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59 mins ago, ccb said:

If you want it balanced , put the reel on the rod and your two fingers in the front of the spinning reel , if it’s balanced it will stay there in that position. 
If it’s a tape cork Butt with no reel seat , then just move it to it balances itseft.  And tape it. 
 

thanks for helping me out

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Building a BH 10' Suzuki Special with minimalist grips, etc. Guys here and elsewhere use the factory rod with 2500 or 3000 reels and feel that works for them. For fluke, smaller strippers and blues, that could work just fine and make for a lightweight outfit. The lesser line capacity, smaller spool (line per rev) and lower max drag are probably not an issue for those applications.

 

Here in FL, we never know what might grab the plug/lure on the next cast. Could be an under 5 pound snook, lady fish, jack, mackerel, etc. Conversely, it could be one of those but over 10 to 15 pounds, 40" snook and 10# jacks are common. Or, in what will likely be a losing battle, a tarpon that could run 50+. Thus, my view is to be a bit heavier in the reel department, "just in case". Since I am using plugs or paddletails, I am using a tight line retrieve or twitch and balance is not critical. 

 

I have the factory 10' Suzuki rod and pair that with a Slammer 3 4500 and I think that is perfectly balanced (literally, at a point 2-3" in front of the reel foot). While the blank is very light, it is 10' long so a slightly heavier reel is not out of the question. 

 

For this new build, I have been wondering about a 3000-4500 reel. The build should be several ounces lighter than the factory but as I noted, that should not be the main criteria in reel selection. At the moment, instead of another Slammer 4500, I have my eye on the new Saltist MQ in the 4000 size - 39" per revolution, 26# drag and yet it only weights 10 ounces. In contrast, my Slammer 4500 weighs 14.6 though it has modestly larger capacity and a higher max drag, but I don't think the Suzuki would really like a locked down 30# drag with 20# braid. 

 

As someone who has built more rods than I could count once said, when it comes to "balance" if you are lightly gripping the rod with your hand over the reel and the tip neither wants to dip into the water, nor point up to the sky, you are "balanced enough". 

 

 

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On 9/20/2021 at 0:09 PM, ZAFisher said:

Overthunking. Maybe OP meant too felt too light or too small?

Modern tech has shrunk reels but given them pretty strong guts. Braid was the main reason for this tech advance - we can use smaller lighter reels.

I use as small as I can get away with.

My 400 Tranx is a case in point:

12oz

More than enough drag.

Takes 300m of 40lb without having to overfill it

Casts like a dream.

Why would I use a 22oz reel unless I can see myself being hit with a big enough wave to consider myself submerged and therefor need a waterproof reel?

Do you cast the Tranx with the unbalanced power crank/knob? Or double paddle/ after market balanced single knob handle?

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20 mins ago, LowEnd said:

Like this.

 

1328513B-9CD3-4BB7-9065-CC3852224BBE.jpeg

and if you took that jig off, you might move back a little bit, right? 

Edited by flyangler

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22 mins ago, BG_NJ said:

Do you cast the Tranx with the unbalanced power crank/knob? Or double paddle/ after market balanced single knob handle?

I still use it with the factory fitted power handle.

Edited by ZAFisher

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47 mins ago, ZAFisher said:

I still use it with the factory fitted power handle.

Haven't used mine for much heaving yet but I did notice on some practice casts that the power handle seems to engage the spool on a beefy throw if the knob is not around 7 or 8 oclock when casting..

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