jerseystriper

Reel seat rotates or fly rod rotates

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Picked up over winter a cheap Cortland 12.6 two handed rod- I think it’s called Cl 3- and it’s 5/6 weight- once I figured out proper line for it , with the help of others on the board, the rod worked just fine during spring run here in Jersey- 

only issue I have had is the reel seat spins around the rod- I figured it’s not supposed to do that, none of my single hand rods do but just wondering if that is just the way it is- it’s a minor annoying thing but again rod was cheap so it could be a you get what you pay for.

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Nope, not meant to do that... Needs to be repaired. Done right, take apart and reglue the reel seat on (normally flyrod easy to do). If it is an inexpensive rod I have drilled holes in the reel seat and filled it with epoxy for an easy fix, if not a good looking fix.

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Cheap does not have to mean nasty. Sorry that you got nasty. It is not hard for a rod to be properly made. It makes me angry. All that’s needed at the factory is a properly trained Operative. A proper number of arbors unde the reel seat and a water break free surface for a decent epoxy to secure the seat. A ten year old kid can do it. 
Its bollocks. Nothing less. It can be fixed properly or bodged. I only know properly. Bodged is not in my DNA.

 

Mike 

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Jersey,

Unless you are a rod builder - replacing the lower grip will be tough for you.

Good enough fix:

1. Make sure seat is oriented properly.

2. Drill a series 3/16" of holes in the bottom of the seat - that will be covered by the reel seat - from end to end.  Leave about 3/16" between holes.  CAREFUL to just clear seat.  Use a drill press if you have access to one. Otherwise use a 1/4" tube to limit the depth of the hole.  If you use a hand drill - it will want to plunge deeper as the bit clears the aluminum seat.  Then you will be drilling into the blank.

3. Once you complete the series of holes:

Use West System Brand GFlex 650 epoxy.

Apply the epoxy in all holes - then rotate as you apply epoxy 360 degrees around the rod.

The idea is to get as much epoxy applied inside the seat as possible.

Clean-up with alcohol.  BUT - BUT - make sure you use a an almost alcohol dry paper towel to clean off the hole area.  If very wet with alcohol - the alcohol will wick into the holes and you will have screwed everything up. 

Last is to make sure the seat is properly oriented. leave it alone for a few hours.

Good luck,

'Herb

 

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Herb

 

We are both rod builders. I would say that drilling blind towards a blank is pretty risky for a Rod Builder even. Impatient amateurs without the right tools receipt for disaster. How far do we drill? How much space between the reel seat and the blank.
 

The other issues I have with this kind of fix is what is beneath the holes we drill. Based on a number of rods where I have removed reel seats over the years all kinds of crap from sellotape to correagated  paper.

 

There was a reason the joint failed in the first place. Maybe hardly any epoxy or worse a dirty blank with no water break free surface that an epoxy can stick to.

I am sure that this fix will have worked for some but difficult for me to accept.

 

If the reel seat is spinning around the blank then heh presto all we have to remove on a single hander is the fighting butt or end cap. No risk to blank.

If it is a double hander then tough crap we have to remove the rear handle.

Doable for some but not all without cutting into the blank.

I think if you love your rod be kind to it and take it to a a Rod Builder of some repute. I would still ask him or her how they would go about the job. Depending on the reply.would depend on wether I left the rod with them or took it back home.

Herb would do it the right way as he is a craftsman.

 

Mike

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1 hour ago, HL said:

Jersey,

Unless you are a rod builder - replacing the lower grip will be tough for you.

Good enough fix:

1. Make sure seat is oriented properly.

2. Drill a series 3/16" of holes in the bottom of the seat - that will be covered by the reel seat - from end to end.  Leave about 3/16" between holes.  CAREFUL to just clear seat.  Use a drill press if you have access to one. Otherwise use a 1/4" tube to limit the depth of the hole.  If you use a hand drill - it will want to plunge deeper as the bit clears the aluminum seat.  Then you will be drilling into the blank.

3. Once you complete the series of holes:

Use West System Brand GFlex 650 epoxy.

Apply the epoxy in all holes - then rotate as you apply epoxy 360 degrees around the rod.

The idea is to get as much epoxy applied inside the seat as possible.

Clean-up with alcohol.  BUT - BUT - make sure you use a an almost alcohol dry paper towel to clean off the hole area.  If very wet with alcohol - the alcohol will wick into the holes and you will have screwed everything up. 

Last is to make sure the seat is properly oriented. leave it alone for a few hours.

Good luck,

'Herb

 

Hi Herb,Dealing with one now as a matter of fact.I explained the drilling option and the butt removal option.Waiting for the response from the customer.

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On 9/6/2021 at 6:35 PM, Mike Oliver said:

 It can be fixed properly or bodged. I only know properly. Bodged is not in my DNA.

 

Mike 

Bodged is British for Butchered, in case you didn't understand him! How's things Mike!

Bobby

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Bobby,

 

Best to answer your question more fully in a PM. Short reply is that life is interesting and challenging but I am loving it all the same. Thanks for asking.

 

Mike

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Herb, 

Well I took your advise and went for the drill holes solution- 6 holes- used 3 bits from very thin up to the 3/16- used a low speed battery drill- was not all that hard- odd part was there is a collar that fits around cork up front and in the rear- under this collar is about 1/16 of inch space or so to the rod blank- all the rest of the holes would drill into blank once I "holed" out the aluminum reel seat- ended up biting a bit of blank but just a bit- was not much I could do to stop that- rotated the blank around and it appears that under the real seat was some type of brown wrapping- looked a bit like masking tape used to help hold golf clubs grips when I regrip golf clubs. Mixed the epoxy and funneled it into the holes- wiped them down- been drying now for 4 hours and currently solid but who knows if it will hold long term- 

 

Mike, I understand your concerns, but for rod I spent less for then a new orvis fly line for and was just a cheap opportunity to see if two handed casting is something I want to invest in both time and money long term I  can not see the sense in sending out for a professional fix- if it comes down to it Ill duck tape the sucker to blank and deal with it. If it was a Burkeimer, yea sure its worth the money to do right, but I suspect if it was a burkeimer it would not be spinning to begin with. Will cast it tomorrow and see what happens- If the worse that happens is that the reel "torques" left to right and ends up 20-25 degrees off center and I have to manually adjust, so be it. 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Ok ok I get it. I just can’t help my OCD and rod building way of life. It is in my DNA

 

Mind the part that really sends me into a tail spin is the cheap rod to see if you like it. You can spend $1200 and I can almost guarantee you will not like it. The difference between a TH rod that truely cuts it in the ocean is bigger than comparing a 2 wt single hand rod over a decent 10 wt to throw over the incoming.

Bollocks, one day I will come and do a dog and pony show at one of your National fly fishing shows to demo just what a real surf fit TH fly rod can do. If it does not cost me an arm and a leg.

I would expect to see a lot of mouths catching flies and bugs. Lol

 Mike

Edited by Mike Oliver

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Mike,

No problem on the OCD- I understand the passion- The two handed rod thing is just something I wanted to try- had plenty of success with the single handed ones, but figured I would give it a try to see what the difference is. I have become to believe in their value as a fishing tool- as far as spending 1200 hundred for a rod. It would have to be something to go for that money- Hopefully one day Mike you will make it to sandy hook in October/November and or April/May and I can actually see a two handed rod being used to its full potential. 

 

As far as repair goes- so far the reel seat is now solid and not rotating- has a slight click/looseness to it- we will see if the "fix" lasts. 

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G Loomis had some problems just like this a while back, with US made rods too, original NRX 's, guess from the sound of it they had a bad batch. Boy did they stand behind their product. Anybody who reported the issue and sent the rod back out a brand new freaking ride and a new tube and everything. Amazing service. As ate would have it one of my rods, an 8wt, was affected and I was blown away by the service.

 

Cortland is supposed to be a pretty good company I would imagine they would repair an issue like this free of charge and maybe even do something similar and issue a brand new rod. My recommendation would be to not mess with it and just contact Cortland. You might be surprised what comes of it.

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