ifishthebadspots

Sanding the blank

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I know that sanding graphite blanks could be a shitfest, but I'd like to know what is possible. There's a popular thread out there addressing a few general questions, but it specifically avoids talking about cleaning up under the old guides. Is there a method out there that would work with careful approach? Ideally, I'd want to take the old varnish off and redo it. It looks like typically people use a dull blade and then do some light sanding with a scotch pad. Under the guides everything is compressed and imprinted from the old threads. What is the best practice here?

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I use a dull blade and light heat from a heat gun to make the scraping easier.  Haven't needed the scotch-brite to get a smooth enough surface to re-wrap.

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1 hour ago, Mangomania said:

I use a dull blade and light heat from a heat gun to make the scraping easier.  Haven't needed the scotch-brite to get a smooth enough surface to re-wrap.

I guess I'll try this real careful and see where it gets me once I'm there. Thanks, this is encouraging!

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Using a heat gun judiciously will soften the finish and allow you to remove any residual finish. However, as a final step I use masking tape around the edges of each side the under wrap.  Then I use fine 220 grit manicure sanding sponge to get it perfectly smooth. Remove the masking tape then clean the sanded areas several times with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.  The sanding sponges can be bought on Amazon or Bay.

 

Sand by hand.  Do not spin the blank with a power wrapper.  The heat generated will damage the blank.

Edited by Al Goldberg

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I think I cleaned it up pretty well all the way down to the wrap, used the back of a knife, as all my blades were sharp...

 

What's the good stuff to coat it with? I saw some people mention permaflex is runny and smelly, and recommended CPXtra. Should I get that?

 

My variable speed rod dryer is ready too.

Screenshot_20210716-133111_Gallery.jpg

Edited by ifishthebadspots

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15 hours ago, Al Goldberg said:

Using a heat gun judiciously will soften the finish and allow you to remove any residual finish. However, as a final step I use masking tape around the edges of each side the under wrap.  Then I use fine 220 grit manicure sanding sponge to get it perfectly smooth. Remove the masking tape then clean the sanded areas several times with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.  The sanding sponges can be bought on Amazon or Bay.

 

Sand by hand.  Do not spin the blank with a power wrapper.  The heat generated will damage the blank.

THIS!!!! 

I will admit I've used the drying motor on my lathe to spin the rod slowly while using a strip of 220 to smooth out the blank.

 

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Permagloss works very well for recoating a rod before rewrapping.  Wipe it on quickly with a lint free paper towel or small foam brush.  Wear gloves and work in well ventilated area.  I usually do two coats with a few hours dry time between.  Never tried the CPXtra

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10 hours ago, WorcBoy said:

THIS!!!! 

I will admit I've used the drying motor on my lathe to spin the rod slowly while using a strip of 220 to smooth out the blank.

 

Power sanding at 18-25 rpms will not result in friction heat so that's fine.

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When sanding a blank with epoxy or varnish on, can be heavy on some commercial rods, I use scotchbrite pads, I give a occasional squirt of soapy water (washing up liquid and water). The water lifts debris away from the blank and keeps the pad clean and sharp, soap seems to add a bit of lubrication and less scratching. After cleaning blank I use E tec lite epoxy to protect blank. Using a foam brush, very light coats, just a wet, lengthwise strokes.

Cleaning up under old rod guide feet, whatever method you use, slow, slow, careful,  will get you over the finish line with no damage

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