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Broken reel seat.

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bob4

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Still pretty new to all this. Son-in-law has a broken reel seat on a Falcon rod. He's emotionally attached. So I would like to try and repair this just for the experience. I watched a few vids on using steam to take this apart. But seeing as  most everything went on from the tip down. Now with guides on we're not working that way. Do we fill in the void with epoxy?  Is it worth it to try and save the handle or is it toast?  And if someone would be good enough to steer me in the right direction to repair this I'd appreciate it.

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Mark the seat with tape/pencil where the reel foot sits.  Using this "foot print" as a guide, heat the seat and cut a small "window" using a carpet knife.  Be sure to save the piece as you will use to close up the hole.  Pack as much epoxy into the seat void through the "window" as possible.   Dont be afraid to remove any arbor material to make room for more glue.  Once she's good and packed with fresh glue, straighten the seat and tape the piece back in place with some painters tape.  Put a reel back as a clamp.  Hopefully this will take care of it...  good luck!!

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I didn't explain myself well enough. The seat needs to be replaced. I was wondering what is a common way to do this. I have only built 1 rod. When I did. handle seat and foregrip and winding all went on from the tip. With guides on that can't happen. 

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not hard at all. most guys use a dremel but i think its easier and safer to cut the metal band with a tin snips then roll it off with a long nose pliers, like opening a can of sardines. then heat the reel seat with a torch or heat gun and cut it lengthwise with a razor. keep the razor at an angle to that you wont touch the rod. cuts easy once its heated up.

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It's not hard and you don't need heat. The stainless piece snaps right off, after all how else would they get the painted seats done? Cut the nylon with a hacksaw held at an angle to free your movement and not get in the way of the grip you want to keep, put a flat tip screwdriver in the spiralled cut and twist, it will pop right off.

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I don't use heat on a rod that can fail at anytime when you reach 250 degrees or more. I have seen far to many heat generated rod failures. I also don't use 5 minute epoxy to install tip tops for the same reason. You must have a hell of a heat source to soften and remove a seat in 30 seconds.

Edited by spoonplugger1
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