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1 rod, conventional AND spinning

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I've seen a few builds where the guides were sized and spaced to accommodate both conventional AND spinning reels. I know you don't get the best of both, but rather a compromise between the two. I have a spare 11ft blank I'd like to try this out on as I fish both style of reels for different types of fishing. Conventional reels for deeper faster water and spinning for distance and windier conditions. I really like this blank and think it could do both styles well with different reels on it...

 

That said, who has built a rod like this before and what frames/sizes of guides would you recommend I try? Thanks for the help and I'm excited to hear from some folks who have actually built and fished a rod like this.  

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   Look, its likely that the rod building police will come up with 20 reasons why you can't do that. But if your casting with braid, it will work. As long as you have a well laid out rod,  You don't even have to worry about spine. Just make sure you use a nice guide layout. Use a 30mm to start and work your way down. COF is probably going to give you your best performance for a Dual purpose rod. If your a firm believer in spine. then build it so what ever you intend to use the rod for the most, make sure the spine yields to the load. I have several Century rods built COF (30, 25, 20, 16, 12, 10, 10)  And you can put whatever reel you want on them and they work fine. (For dual rods I don't use K-frames) If your unsure and you already have a conventional rod, put a spinning reel on it with braid and go cast. You will be quite surprised. 

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I'm going to disagree with Big Dave about a COF layout being best to do both well.

i'd go aggressive NGC that gets the line down fast ie tight spacing, err on the side of more guides (bugger the police it works with spinners 150%)

Post reel details and we can fart around and get it to do both better than you would think

 

 

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This rod will have 6000 Shimano spinning reel and 300 Shimano low profile baitcaster or 6500 Abu Chrome Rocket conventional reel. All reels will have 20lb braid on them. Rod butt to reel stem will likely be 18"-20" but I'm not set on that entirely. Need to play with that a bit first. Excited to see your suggestions here @ZAFisher. I will be using both reel styles equally on the rod if that helps. The blank is a mod-fast taper and rated for 1-4 oz. Will be used for lures not bait. 

 

Thanks for the tips on guide sizing @Big Dave but why no K frame guides? I did the opposite and put a baitcast reel on a spinning rod to get some idea of what I might need to tweak. Casting was pretty decent, but just trying to dial it in a little better.

 

Appreciate the quick responses guys, you managed to beat the arm chair experts and angry trolls to this post to provide some great help so far!

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K's work fine with both; I cannot see why K's should not be considered 1st choice for convench rods.

Will give it some thought, but off hand, KW30 25 20 12 reduction and SF (or DF if you prefer) runners in say size 7 or 8, just tightly spaced and you wont be able to tell its not a spinner/convench rod as the case may be.

I'd suggest what some builders in the far east call an Assist Guide (basically a very tightly spaced 1st runner after the tip top) just plain works to reduce tip wraps with braid. I scoffed at 1st.

 

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2 hours ago, hairyfishhead said:

 

Thanks for the tips on guide sizing @Big Dave but why no K frame guides? I did the opposite and put a baitcast reel on a spinning rod to get some idea of what I might need to tweak. Casting was pretty decent, but just trying to dial it in a little better.

 

 

I do use K-frames, I use them on rods I sell, and on rods I build knowing I’ll likely sell. For what ever the reason most people want K frames whether they know why or not. The big selling point of K frames is tangle free, but since guide tangles are a non issue for me, K frames solve a problem I don’t have. But they look cool.  Rods I intend to keep are built with BMNAG style frames, some SIC and some Alconite. 

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11 hours ago, hairyfishhead said:

How does the tight guide spacing in the SF runners help both reels cast better on the same rod? Just control the line playing off each reel better and improve distance overall as a result?

Spreads casting and fish fighting load better.

Less line chatter

Keeps line off blank with conventional.

300 size Shimano LP = Tranx?

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Ah yes good point about keeping the line off the blank for a conventional reel with closer guides near tip. Any other things to consider in this build? It seems more straightforward to build than I thought... what about distance to 1st guide??? How far/close should that be to handle both reels well? 
 

I like the older Shimano Curado 300s. It’s insane how many years I’ve got out of these reels with basic maintenance and an occasional bearing upgrade. Tranx seems nice, just a little pricey. 

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Hi there,

I built one with a 11ft gsb 1pc and used Fuji LC guides.  Probably defeated the purpose of using LC guides, but it works for conventional and spinning.  As for spacing, I set the first guide for spinning then the rest more for conventional.  Did a bit of test casting and static testing to get the right guide placement.  Keep in mind this rod was pretty heavy action, so having more LC guides did not affect the actIon too much.  If would probably not do this with a rod rated at Med or less.

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I also built one for a 9 1/2 footer heavy action as well.  Cast great for both, although I rarely use it, as this was made for chunking  I am thinking about using it for ripping blackfish from jetty rocks.  Probably overkill though.  

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No reason why this wont work. In fact it can work damn well! I don't think it is really much of a compromise from either, maybe an extra running guide, or going up a size for the stripper

I built a Century SS1505 for spin with a KW30, KL20, KL12 an KT8s out to the tip. This is a beautiful set up for 2oz tins and casts long and quiet.

This same rod with an Abu 2500c loaded with mono, Ive cast my PB with an 18gr casting plug of 128m and set an Australian record of 114.8m.

A good spin reduction train will work great with conventional, the key is to static load test to ensure the running guides keep the line off the blank.

I've also done a few with MN's several years ago that are still performing both duties well.

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