flyangler

SME build - Blingish vanity project, skills learning experience or both?

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1 hour ago, Terry Mac said:

Too many words. Tom, KISS. 

Rock and Roll All Night and Party Everyday

 

Here's a 14,000 word equivalent....

 

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Ramp in rear needs a second coat of color, tomorrow. 

 

Thinking about the top of the seat and whether to leave as-is or use a little thread and make a smoother transition. 

 

@Terry Mac - How was this for brevity? 

 

 

 

Edited by flyangler

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Posted (edited) · Report post

How should I finish off this transition? 
 

- Leave as is (I think there is a glue seal in there)

 

- Apply a very thin bead of epoxy into space

 

- Create small thread ramp and epoxy from shrink to edge of seat front

 

 

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2400

Edited by flyangler

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Without perfect concentricity of the seat, wrapping thread up to it might even make it more noticeable.

 

...like, a difference of 1/4" on a 3' part is less noticeable than 1/4" difference between 3" parts.

 

I'd try epoxy only.

Edited to add: based on no building experience, just thinking aloud.

Edited by cityevader

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39 mins ago, cityevader said:

Without perfect concentricity of the seat, wrapping thread up to it might even make it more noticeable.

 

...like, a difference of 1/4" on a 3' part is less noticeable than 1/4" difference between 3" parts.

 

I'd try epoxy only.

Edited to add: based on no building experience, just thinking aloud.

yeah, i cannot explain why that is not perfectly concentric all the way around. I had put the seat in a circle drafting template to gauge the opposite end from the reel foot side and did not not any lack of roundness on the seat.

 

so it had to be the built-up tape under the shrink is not perfectly round. I am sure I goofed on the cork or tape but thought I was pretty careful.

 

be that as it may, the gap is on the reel foot side of the seat so will not be at all visible when reel is facing downward. also, while it looks very noticeable in the zoomed in photos, it is about a millimeter out of perfect concentricity. 

 

anyone else have a suggestion?

 

2431

 

 

Edited by flyangler

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1 hour ago, ZAFisher said:

No thread. Thin bead of epoxy.

Thanks, that's second vote for just an epoxy bead. 

 

I am down to one of two solutions, the epoxy bead or a thread finish as done at the front of butt grip (below). Just about 3/4 inch long as shown with the portion of gold and black thread on the blank.

 

I already plan to do the same gold/black trim behind the colored ramp so that it matches the other at each end of the split grip. Symmetry around the reel seat could argue for the same thing wrapped ahead of the seat on the shrink wrap up there. A little unconventional but I have seen some serious thread/epoxy ramps or transitions at the same spot so not totally out of the norm. 

 

Thoughts?

 

ramp.jpg.a5a9fdda848a70950bc8bb0481b52267.jpg

 

2455

Edited by flyangler

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2 hours ago, Terry Mac said:

Tom, what is the plan on guides for this 11'? Start with the stripper size/type and distance from spool lip. 

Will have to get that to you in the future. Based on AFMike recommendation on spool to stripper distance:


...spacing depends on your butt length. Start at 38" from spool face with the 30, then about 15"  or so to the 20...it will depend on the reel your using and butt length. You will need to static test and test cast. 

 

Given my long arms and long butt length that first guide is going to be at the top of the butt section, about 35-36” if I recall correctly. 
 

Reel is a 2020 Saltiga 14K. 
 

Divining guide spacing is both known and new to me. Getting position of choke guide seems to be the key metric. 
 

Guide train was dictated by convention but also what was available. Using shiny Ti/SIC because dark Ti was not available. 

 

30

20

12

10

4 x 10 as runners. 
12 ring tip top (10 tube)

 

Original order was for the runners to be 8s but those were not available. Original tip was to be a 8 as well but with a 10 tube, neither 8 nor 10 were available. Since I reel a FG knot through the tip on every cast, a slightly larger tip should not pose a problem. I think....

 

2521

 

Edited by flyangler

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Have you ever checked to see if your work bench surface is level? Not an issue with epoxy on small guides but bigger guides or over long sections and any pitch could be a problem. My work space is a garage which is pitched from the back to the overhead door for drainage in case it is ever flooded. So it has a minor pitch which needs to be corrected when doing epoxy work.
 

FLOOR

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BENCH SURFACE

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ALONG BLANK IN DRYER

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"SHIMS" UNDER MOTOR BRACKET

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CLOSE ENOUGH

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Edited by flyangler

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Ramp painted with nail polish, trim thread and one coat of epoxy. I am not loving the smoothness of the epoxy but not certain I am going to do a second coat. Will decide tomorrow. 

 

Of course, iPhone several inches away is going to exacerbate any flaws.
 

Question: Can first coat of dried epoxy be wet sanded by hand to take down any high points? Will second coat make sanded areas "disappear"?

 

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2532

Edited by flyangler

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17 hours ago, flyangler said:

yeah, i cannot explain why that is not perfectly concentric all the way around. I had put the seat in a circle drafting template to gauge the opposite end from the reel foot side and did not not any lack of roundness on the seat.

 

Front / tapered portion of a NPS seat is not round; more noticible on a size 20 than say on a size 16

There are nifty aluminium trim rings that you can insert inside the end of the seat and which forces it into a round shape

 

4 hours ago, flyangler said:

Question: Can first coat of dried epoxy be wet sanded by hand to take down any high points? Will second coat make sanded areas "disappear"?

 

No problem; have done it many times, just be careful of how much you sand away ie too much and you are into what lies underneath.....

 

 

4 hours ago, flyangler said:

Guide train was dictated by convention but also what was available. Using shiny Ti/SIC because dark Ti was not available. 

 

30

20

12

10

4 x 10 as runners. 
12 ring tip top (10 tube)

 

Assuming these are all double foot KW's?

If so buy a #25 too, I know AFMike likes the drop from KW30 to KW20, but I only do it if the layout is from KW to KL ie double foot stripper to single foot. Surfishermike and sing from the same hymn sheet in this regard, try both set ups and see which you prefer. And buy another # 10 runner.

 

B

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26 mins ago, ZAFisher said:

 

Front / tapered portion of a NPS seat is not round; more noticible on a size 20 than say on a size 16

There are nifty aluminium trim rings that you can insert inside the end of the seat and which forces it into a round shape

Yup, a size 20. Too late for that trick. I had seen such rings but never knew their function beyond aesthetics. Live and learn....

26 mins ago, ZAFisher said:

No problem; have done it many times, just be careful of how much you sand away ie too much and you are into what lies underneath.....

Good to know. I have cut away fuzzies, blemishes, dust, etc. and always found the dull spot "disappears" when second coat was applied. . 

26 mins ago, ZAFisher said:

Assuming these are all double foot KW's?

If so buy a #25 too, I know AFMike likes the drop from KW30 to KW20, but I only do it if the layout is from KW to KL ie double foot stripper to single foot. Surfishermike and sing from the same hymn sheet in this regard, try both set ups and see which you prefer. And buy another # 10 runner.

Yes, all double foot KW. 
 

I had read here and elsewhere about 30-25-20/16 but followed Mike's suggestions. Going to be a challenge "trying out" a $45 25 since I don’t think anyone has stock at the moment. 
 

Buy another #10 runner? So a total of 5+1=6 #10s? 
 

I had not mentioned beyond saying a 14K Saltiga but line will likely be 50 or 65# braid - still deciding if I want to maximize capacity or strength. Rod is intended to fish lures (jigs, plugs) on open sand beaches with targets being tarpon and sharks, 70-125+ pounds.  

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2 mins ago, flyangler said:

Buy another #10 runner? So a total of 5+1=6 #10s? 

Well it will depend on whether you go 30 20 12 or 30 25 20 12 for a total of at least 9 guides + tip top on a 12'

Maybe I have erred, is this a 12' SME?

 

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2 hours ago, ZAFisher said:

Well it will depend on whether you go 30 20 12 or 30 25 20 12 for a total of at least 9 guides + tip top on a 12'

Maybe I have erred, is this a 12' SME?

 

11' 3"

 

 

 

2572

Edited by flyangler

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