Mandoborg

Hydro testing weighted plugs

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He folks, sorry for all the silly questions lately. Appreciate the patience as much as the great advice that has been given. Today's silly question of the day is ; Do the hydro testers among you hydro a plug that's going to have a belly weight ? I'm interested in the topic and can definitely see the advantages to say an unweighted  spook, but if i'm going to bury a 1/2 x 1/4 slug of lead in the belly of say Danny, is it still viable to hydro test ? I can see either way.....Just curious what the consensus is.... Thanks again for all the help lately. 

 

Jim

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I used to float test before turning, I would drill through, plug the holes, float it and mark the ‘top’.

  Belly or tail weights can be temporarily attached during further float testing.
   

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31 mins ago, Mandoborg said:

He folks, sorry for all the silly questions lately. Appreciate the patience as much as the great advice that has been given. Today's silly question of the day is ; Do the hydro testers among you hydro a plug that's going to have a belly weight ? I'm interested in the topic and can definitely see the advantages to say an unweighted  spook, but if i'm going to bury a 1/2 x 1/4 slug of lead in the belly of say Danny, is it still viable to hydro test ? I can see either way.....Just curious what the consensus is.... Thanks again for all the help lately. 

 

Jim

this is a first year building for me. I spent 2 winters going thru just about every post. After searching all posts on a couple different sites there were builders i had alot of respect for. When it came to hydro testing i figured if they thought it was worth it i would do it to.  

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Posted (edited) · Report post

It depends on the amount of weight you'll be adding whether or not it's worth the effort

Something with minimal added belly weight like a danny - it's worth doing it.

 

Something like a ass in the air pikie really isn't going to swim any differently hydro oriented or not, same for a pencil or a sinking needle

 

Turn, cut off the stubs, float, mark the top by making a small line with a magic marker.

Edited by Sudsy

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Thank You for the responses / input ! Food for thought. I'm going to turn out a couple of Danny's from consecutive blanks ( to  ensure the same wood characteristics ) and hydro one and not the other and see what the end result shows. Could be interesting ! Thanks again ! Love this forum !  :th:

 

Jim

Edited by Mandoborg

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9 hours ago, Mandoborg said:

Thank You for the responses / input ! Food for thought. I'm going to turn out a couple of Danny's from consecutive blanks ( to  ensure the same wood characteristics ) and hydro one and not the other and see what it shows. Could be interesting ! Thanks again ! Love this forum !  :th:

 

Jim

Let it dry for a few days before sealing or painting

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On 3/26/2021 at 6:08 AM, derekh said:

Let it dry for a few days before sealing or painting

Also helps to give a light sand before sealing and painting as well.  The water raises the grain.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

this is the second thread i've read on Hydro testing plugs. Sorry I just don't get it. Do 

all the big time plug builders do this, I don't think so. Would take up too much of their 

time, and they probably feel it doesn't really matter, as I do. Please show me a plug that

wasn't hydro'd against a plug that was, bet you could tell the difference. Your adding belly weights, swivels, hooks.

Plug building already has enough steps, why are you adding another.:lost:

Edited by Punch63

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1 hour ago, Punch63 said:this is the second thread i've read on Hydro testing plugs. Sorry I just don't get it. Do 

all the big time plug builders do this, I don't think so. Would take up too much of their 

time, and they probably feel it doesn't really matter, as I do. Please show me a plug that

wasn't hydro'd against a plug that was, bet you could tell the difference. Your adding belly weights, swivels, hooks.

Plug building already has enough steps, why are you adding another.:lost:

What don’t you get?  You’d be correct, most builders do not hydro orient.  I’ll experiment with it when I get my shop up and post results of what I find.

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11 hours ago, Punch63 said:

this is the second thread i've read on Hydro testing plugs. Sorry I just don't get it. Do 

all the big time plug builders do this, I don't think so. Would take up too much of their 

time, and they probably feel it doesn't really matter, as I do. Please show me a plug that

wasn't hydro'd against a plug that was, bet you could tell the difference. Your adding belly weights, swivels, hooks.

Plug building already has enough steps, why are you adding another.:lost:

Agree.  Would like to know if the main plug builders that sell 100s a plugs a year do this.  

 

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12 hours ago, Punch63 said:

this is the second thread i've read on Hydro testing plugs. Sorry I just don't get it. Do 

all the big time plug builders do this, I don't think so. Would take up too much of their 

time, and they probably feel it doesn't really matter, as I do. Please show me a plug that

wasn't hydro'd against a plug that was, bet you could tell the difference. Your adding belly weights, swivels, hooks.

Plug building already has enough steps, why are you adding another.:lost:

 

Its one of those personal things. Is it absolutely necessary, no. Does it help, I believe so for most plugs. In a nutshell, hydoing a plug finds the natural ballast of the blank. It has more of a affect on plugs that have little to no belly weight. For a plug, like a popper, with a large belly weight, I doubt it does anything. On some woods, you drop the blank in a bucket, it immediately spins to one side like it has a spring in it. On others, they slowly orient themselves. The former will benefit most from hydroing before completing the build. Here is a quick experiment that you can try. Do up a small batch of plugs and hydro all of the blanks after turning. Build a couple that are set up so that the natural top of the blank (faces up when in the water) is on top of the blank. Just how you would normally build if you were hydroing the plugs. On the others, purposely do them with the natural top to the side or belly of the plug. Simple two-tone paint (i.e., yellow over white). Mark the plugs in a hard to see area. Test swim them without seeing which were set up with the natural top on the back and which were built differently. Note which ones swim better. After you are done, check out which ones were set up with the natural back on the back of the plug. I did that years ago with a swimmer that had no belly weight. Been hydroing ever since. Again, personal preference. I’m not trying to build 1000’s of plugs. Just small batches that swim as best as I can make them. That’s why I hydro all but those plugs with large belly weights. I know plenty of good builders who don’t bother. Figure out what works best for you and go with that. My 2 pennies.

 

 

 

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On 3/28/2021 at 8:31 AM, Jig Man said:

 

Its one of those personal things. Is it absolutely necessary, no. Does it help, I believe so for most plugs. In a nutshell, hydoing a plug finds the natural ballast of the blank. It has more of a affect on plugs that have little to no belly weight. For a plug, like a popper, with a large belly weight, I doubt it does anything. On some woods, you drop the blank in a bucket, it immediately spins to one side like it has a spring in it. On others, they slowly orient themselves. The former will benefit most from hydroing before completing the build. Here is a quick experiment that you can try. Do up a small batch of plugs and hydro all of the blanks after turning. Build a couple that are set up so that the natural top of the blank (faces up when in the water) is on top of the blank. Just how you would normally build if you were hydroing the plugs. On the others, purposely do them with the natural top to the side or belly of the plug. Simple two-tone paint (i.e., yellow over white). Mark the plugs in a hard to see area. Test swim them without seeing which were set up with the natural top on the back and which were built differently. Note which ones swim better. After you are done, check out which ones were set up with the natural back on the back of the plug. I did that years ago with a swimmer that had no belly weight. Been hydroing ever since. Again, personal preference. I’m not trying to build 1000’s of plugs. Just small batches that swim as best as I can make them. That’s why I hydro all but those plugs with large belly weights. I know plenty of good builders who don’t bother. Figure out what works best for you and go with that. My 2 pennies.

 

 

 

Ditto on the above comment... (and I’m by no mean a plug expert) but hydro testing is a method to “fine tune” a plug.. of your a mass producer of plugs.. it is nether cost effective or necessary,  so why would you?... if your a plug “craftsmen” who does it for the love and thrill of making a damn good plug... then yeah, hydro testing is definitely a worth while investment of time... I can’t tell you how many times I’v picked up a gorgeous looking rod, made by a reputable company.. just to give it a bend and find out it’s not even built on the spline... nessisary? No.. but if you think it doesn’t impact how I look at that rod, the builder, and even my decision to buy that rod... your wrong... quality is in the details... any plug will work eventually... (except maybe mine) but getting One that works just right, every time, will ultimately catch more fish... 

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