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Need input on build using a Matagi-painted Maziora Andromeda seat

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flyangler

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I am moving this to a new discussion here rather than leave it in the earlier ALPS discussion in The Main. I could use some advice from those who have forgotten more than I know about rod building. 

 

Looking for any suggestions on trim or butt wraps for this Maziora Andromeda seat? As much as I claim to be utilitarian and prefer all-black, it would seem to be a shame to not do something to complement this color-shifting seat. So I am going to get a little blingy with this one, but not too much. 

 

4CE460DC-39FF-4F29-8701-642C4D962339_4_5005_c.jpeg.56768572781a6f529c98973fb305acae.jpeg

 

@Billy 40 - I won't have this until next week. Do you recall what color the hood is on this seat that you sent to Grumpy's? Is that stainless or gold? Cannot tell with that lighting in the photo.

 

Anyway, I see two immediate possibilities for the bling, both pretty far past utilitarian.

 

Abalone veneer that picks up the alternating purple, blue, green and pink colors this will show off depending on the lighting, etc. Something like this laid in above the front grip. 

 

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I have several sheets like this on order so I can see how they work. If none work, back they go to seller. 

 

Alternatively, I could try my first dragonscale wrap with Hitena Aurora thread above that front grip. While the thread below looks either greenish or blueish, it turns out that it is Aurora black. I spoke to the guy at Hitena today and he confirmed that shown in the photo and video below is actually black. 

 

dragon scale rod wrap off 75% - www.eksjostadsfest.se

 

 

 

Anyone want to offer suggestions? 

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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Another question: If I had Hitena Aurora metallic in Size C, could I use that to wrap two-leg guides onto the blank? I know most builders would not use A size metallic for anything but decorative wraps, but would a modestly heavier C, with the Hitena core, be able to hold two-footers?

 

Assume first coat of epoxy will be a thin, runny coat and flamed several times to penetrate the metallic thread. This should drive out the air bubbles and bond the thread to the blank. That would be followed by either two light coats of ThreadMaster or one a heavier coat for a medium build final look. 

 

 

 

Edited by flyangler

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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No one? 

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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17 mins ago, Bait Tailer said:

Marbling layers might be another interesting option.  Do you have the RodMaker mag archive?  I drooled all over them, then realized I didn't have enough time or interest in the process to make it worthwhile.  Would love to see the bling when you figure it out!

I considered that but not for this build.
 

Candidly, marbling is a skill that takes time and experience to develop. Given I hope that this adventure down Bling Boulevard will be a one-time, not to be repeated effort, I don’t want to try marbling at this point.

 

Abalone, especially the new stuff, is relatively easy to work with as best I can tell. Boiled water or heat gun method appears straight forward if you are slow and methodical. 

 

I have done chevrons and X wraps before (albeit 40+ years ago) so I am mostly confident I can do the dragonscale. I might lay it out the way Jim Trelikes meant it to be done or I might cheat and use the Sheetrock tape method. The only challenge there is I don’t have a power wrapper head and chuck so all that spinning will be done by hand. 
 

Also considering a vortex or swirl dragonscale. Some really sick chit out there along those lines. Below is a vortex wrapped by Trelikes and below that a video of a swirl posted on the Hitena site. I will not use anything like that gold, but it is impressive, especially when it is in motion. 
 

 

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“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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32 mins ago, Drew C. said:

Marbling....

Beyond the comment above, the effort here is find something that will work with the Andromeda paint's chameleon-like ability to "change colors". Unless marbling with that paint, you need something that is visually dynamic and marbling is static.
 

While you can show depth if marbling is done right, maybe even compete with abalone. But even is you use metallic glitter in the paint, it cannot do what you see below without that paint. And I cannot find a small quantity of this paint in the US and I won’t pay to have a Testors-sized jar shipped from Japan. 


This reel seat will color shift like this...

 

Color_Changing_Iridescent_Paint_Plasti_D

Edited by flyangler

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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5 hours ago, ZAFisher said:

I vote for the Abalone.

I will post photos when the sheets that I have order arrive. I called Mudhole when I placed the order and spoke to sales who went into the warehouse to specifically pull a couple of sheets with the best combination of colors. 

 

1 hour ago, LowEnd said:

Try your local auto body supply. They might be able to mix you a touch up bottle. Still going to be $.

Maybe Billy 40 can make you a shade pack that will work with that paint.

Might try a car paint shop, just not sure that this color is something that can be mixed locally. Over the years, I have only seen three vehicles in-person with the Andromeda paint scheme. One was a Porsche at a car show, one was a Bentley parked at a high-end restaurant on Palm Beach and one was a MB G wagon. I spoke to the guy who owned the last one and his was actually a film, not a paint job. Best film application that I have ever seen and based on how he described the process and general cost, maybe as costly as having painted it from scratch. But the film was removable and he said this was his third film and a carbon fiber film was going to be next (never saw that however). 

 

I did find that Sulky makes a metallic thread that has both purple and the seafoam green tone of the Andromeda. I think the below will be animated and give you a sense of its colors. The only issue is when wound on a rod properly, it will likely show as a variegated pattern. The repeat on the thread is 1". The blank diameter up near the seat will be 0.50-0.55" so the circumference will be ~1.6", more than one inch and less than two. That means the transitions won't line up if used as a long wrap. Not sure how that will look, I have to find an old piece of blank or similar size pipe to try it out. It could make a good trim wrap where there are only 5 or 6 turns. And it might make a good cover over a dragonscale base. 

 

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Edited by flyangler

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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6 hours ago, ZAFisher said:

I vote for the Abalone.

There is something to be said for abalone. Depending on the sheets I get, thinking either a 6" long section like in first photo or a more reserved treatment like the second. 

 

IMG_6731-450x600.jpeg.342ee7a49f15b328cff1b656bcb375e1.jpeg

 

 

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“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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52 mins ago, ZAFisher said:

What about using the pigmnent powder in your epoxy?

Google this: Nebula Two-Tone Purple Green Color Shifting Effect Mica Powder

That is definitely an option but not sure it works with epoxy as I discuss at bottom.

 

The issue I have it that the reel seat has not been delivered as yet so I don't know how strong the color-shifting effect is, etc. which will help determine how much I want to make this a theme. 

 

But you are correct, there are all sorts of options out there once you start searching by listing the colors and drop the "andromeda", your powder among them. 

 

I need to buy some spray adhesive for installing the shrink wrap so I stopped at Hobby Lobby and found this stuff and bought a bottle. It is a glaze, not a paint, so it goes on whitish but when it is applied over over a dark surface and dries, you get the effect. How much of an effect is based on how many coats one uses. I put about four thin coats on an old piece of blank and got the results below. Clearly the teal is the dominant color and the purple if much harder to capture in photos than what is seen with the naked eye (down toward the end in the first two photos). 

 

 

Shop Plaid FolkArt ® Dragonfly Glaze™ - Violet-Blue-Green, 2 oz. - 44383 -  44383 | Plaid Online

 

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I found that Rustoleum and Testors make color-shift spray paint. The paint has a much stronger effect than the glaze, as one would expect. As with the glaze, they recommend applying it over a dark or black surface. 

 

81KjlLBIyvL._AC_SL1500_.jpg  7144XNCq00L._SY88.jpg

 

There is also a nail polish that came in a couple of different color combos, this being the closest to what I think I need. 

 

513XbkaErLL.jpg

 

I bought the nail polish as well in case I want to do small items, like the seat's separate locking nut that I have or a winding check or hosel. Much more flexible than a full rattle can. 

 

As for the pigment powder, I hear you on mixing it in the epoxy, but that does not provide much flexibility. In all the application notes I have read, this stuff works best with multiple thin coats rather than one thick layer. If mixed in with the rod finish, you lose that control and if you mix in too much powder, who knows that might happen.

 

The water-based glaze I have might be a better option for applying to threads as that can all be done before the final coat(s) of epoxy. And if used on the threads of a draconscale patterns, the glaze could more opportunities to allow it to get into the structure of the thread design. 

 

If I do the dragonscale or other 3D thread effect with metallic thread, the first coat of finish is supposed to be thin so that it can penetrate into the thread, penetrate the spaces between the metallic foil and nylon carrier core and also bond the thread to the blank. Flaming the lite epoxy will thin it even more and allow further penetration, or so I read. 

 

Way over thinking this for a fishing rod, but it beat worrying about our president's challenges going up a stairway....

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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OK, this chit just got serious with deliveries from Mudhole and Grumpies


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Edited by flyangler

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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