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5lb mushroom anchor good enough ?


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 My anchors of choice are the pyramid at 9 or a slightly lighter tube sheathed chain.

I am only using these for creeks and rivers and do not use an anchor in the Pacific or lakes.

The pyramid offers stopping power but if the current is able to move me with it deployed, its time to bring it in and paddle. When I'm using the chain that brings a "snag-less" factor, I can allow the boat to continue down stream, just at a much slower rate.  I deploy the anchor from the stern and use a quick release system. Been using this style for over 10 years and would consider myself skilled, but I am always aware that using anchors with a kayak is signing up for swimming lessons. 

 

 

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Edited by HydroSpider
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22 mins ago, HydroSpider said:

I deploy the anchor from the stern and use a quick release system.

As I see it in the pics, if you got a loop in the anchorline after you 'quick release' and it snagged in the stern pulley, now you're fooked because you can't get to it without exiting the boat. My 'quick release' on my trolley is my E-knife to the zigzag cleat at my knee. If I was targeting large fish ,where releasing a buoyed anchor when fighting is a good idea, my setup might not be optimal, but I very rarely chunk bunker from the kayak and never anchor and plug.

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On 3/18/2021 at 5:39 PM, rockyoutdoors said:

Get one of these. Just tie it up like a wreck anchor (main line to the front and a break away on the back) so it breaks free if stuck.

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I use this same style in a 3lb weight on my kayak and it holds my kayak even in  the Delaware rivers rapids areas currents with no issue, just can be a pain in the ass to get back up some times if its wedged really good.

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15 mins ago, Mattyice572 said:

I use this same style in a 3lb weight on my kayak and it holds my kayak even in  the Delaware rivers rapids areas currents with no issue, just can be a pain in the ass to get back up some times if its wedged really good.

Are you rigging it in the break away mode?  (From the pic here) The main anchor line gets tied to the bottom first and then it gets a break away cable tie tied to the top hole. The anchor line does not go thru the hole, the cable tie does, holding the main line so you can get the angle for anchoring. So if it gets stuck you pull hard enough to break the cable tie and then you are pulling up the anchor for the bottom in the opposite way the flukes of the anchor were dug in. If you need pics to explain better let me know.

Edited by rockyoutdoors
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4 mins ago, rockyoutdoors said:

Are you rigging it in the break away mode?  (From the pic here) The main anchor line gets tied to the bottom first and then it gets a break away cable tie tied to the top hole. The anchor line does not go thru the hole, the cable tie does, holding the main line so you can get the angle for anchoring. So if it gets stuck you pull hard enough to break the cable tie and then you are pulling up the anchor for the bottom in the opposite way the flukes of the anchor were dug in. If you need pics to explain better let me know.

Just got it last season, never used an anchor before that but no i didnt even notice that loop at the base until you just mentioned it, would have been helpful to have that info under the rocky bridge when the water was almost 8’ high and i almost flipped trying to get unstuck. Thanks for the tip!

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On 3/20/2021 at 0:59 PM, cheech said:

Inner tube on the chain? I use it several places for kayaking.

C4A498B6-B087-4D6A-95DB-CAB0B9D7F214.jpeg

 Mostly for sound dampening. Helps with link noise, and when the chain is traveling up the hull channel.

  It may help with the snag-less factor, but its mostly for stealthier runnings in smaller creeks.

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  • 4 weeks later...

you need to figure out the bottom you are trying to anchor in, that will dictate the type of anchor you should be getting

 

mushroom really does no good in rocky structure, go with a claw anchor. 

 

mud, sand, clay or a flat, use a mushroom.

 

That said sure, the mushroom may work but it may not. kind of like the right tool for the job kind of thing. You can drive nail with a set of vise grips but a hammer is a lot better.

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Stumbled across a photo of my first anchor arm that I made for a kayak.  This was on a Mini-X.

It worked but it wasn't strong enough not to bend when there was pressure when the anchor was deployed.  I called it The Gauntlet, but my friends called it the Snozz after the anchor stress bent it over. The pyramid was 9#s

I later upgraded to a steel system.

originalgauntlet.jpg

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