Live Liner

Best size battery for 115hp and full electronics

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Running a 115hp with gps fishfinder radar stereo bait well . Would I be be better off with a deep cycle 27starter than a 1000/800 standard size. Do a lot of fluke drifting

in the summer months. Don't want to run with two batterys

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NEVER SAID I WANTED CHEAPEST SOLUTION JUST SOME INPUT ABOUT BATTERY SIZES. WOULD THIS NEED A 27 OR TWO STANDARD BATTERIES. AND WILL A 115 ETEC CHARGE TWO BATTERIES?

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There are other ways to do it but this is how I do it on my boats.  I run 2 banks, house and start.  I use a Blue Seas ACR and battery switch, which they conveniently package in one called an "Add a battery", I have the 120A version.  There are simple wiring diagrams to cover your boat.

 

All leads go to house bank except Etec, which goes to start battery.  When any battery voltage is below 12.9V (or something close to that I forget exactly), which means you aren't charging batteries, then the 2 battery banks are completely isolated.  Since all your loads like electronics and live well are on your house bank, you can absolutely flatten that battery (although not recommended to take lead acid below like 40%) and your start battery will be tip top.

 

When the engine is running, or you are on shorepower, battery charger,  solar etc,  the ACR senses that battery voltage is above 12.9V and combines the 2 banks so the Etec is charging start and house.  Since it takes almost nothing to start an outboard, the start battery should always be 95% charged, and the excess charging goes to your house bank.

 

There are manual ways to do this with a simple $30 battery switch, when you are running engine, switch to ALL, drifting with livewell->switch to 2.  Engine start switch to 1.  As someone who grew up doing it this way, you'll forget and leave it on all when you shut engine off, run your livewell for hours and now you have 2 batteries that can't start the engine.

 

The ACR takes care of all of this for you.  You just switch your boat to ON and don't have to worry about anything.   It does have an override parallel mode so if you wanted to combine banks manually it'll do it.  I really love mine on my big boat and thinking about doing it to my Whaler with 90 Etec but I don't have loads other than 2 Garmins.  I run a group 27.  I also keep an eye on system voltage with my Garmin as well as a USB charger that shows voltage.

 

If you Google Marine How To ACR there is an excellent article about how this all works in detail.  I followed his advice precisely and it just flat out works.

 

Personally I would keep the group 27 deep cycle as your house and then pick up a small group 24 for starter.  I've been using Duracell Marine from Batteries Plus and they work well.

 

Or just keep a jump pack like suggested if you want the cheapest solution.  I think the Etec can be rope started too, at least my 90 I just bought came with rope starter.

Edited by Sailah

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THANKS GUYS I WILL GET A SECOND BATTERY. THANKS AGAIN FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GIVE YOUR

THOUGHTS ON THE SUBJECT. ALWAYS CARRIED A JUMP PACK FROM WEGO BUT NEVER USED AND CAN'T BRING MYSELF TO TRUST IT. ADDING RADAR THIS YEAR SO ITS GOT ME WORRIED.

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3 hours ago, Live Liner said:

THANKS GUYS I WILL GET A SECOND BATTERY. THANKS AGAIN FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GIVE YOUR

THOUGHTS ON THE SUBJECT. ALWAYS CARRIED A JUMP PACK FROM WEGO BUT NEVER USED AND CAN'T BRING MYSELF TO TRUST IT. ADDING RADAR THIS YEAR SO ITS GOT ME WORRIED.

Make sure your jump pack is working properly.  I found out mine was not working properly, even though I had used it several times to jump start a lawn tractor and a car.  I got a new one and I always recharge my jump pack the night before I head out on my boat.

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After the first incident with only one battery, night fishing drifting eels and decided it was time to pack it in, turn the key, and got one turn over and that was it, the engine was a line 6 cyl we had the crank handle told my Brother in law start cranking, we got it going, next day milk box two big batteries that would just fit in, a battery switch either or both batteries, or both off, would go out on one and switch to the other on return trip never again on one battery, batteries are cheap service call or towing is not, even with two batteries a jump pack is good to have on board and then keep in your car.

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54 mins ago, LB said:

After the first incident with only one battery, night fishing drifting eels and decided it was time to pack it in, turn the key, and got one turn over and that was it, the engine was a line 6 cyl we had the crank handle told my Brother in law start cranking, we got it going, next day milk box two big batteries that would just fit in, a battery switch either or both batteries, or both off, would go out on one and switch to the other on return trip never again on one battery, batteries are cheap service call or towing is not, even with two batteries a jump pack is good to have on board and then keep in your car.

Still having two battery without a acr can lead to both  batterys being dead if the switch is on both. A dead battery can steal the charge from a good known battery making both batteries dead.  Most 4 stroke motor will not try to engage or start  if the ecu is not seeing above 12 volts.. 2 batteries setup is still better then one battery anyway even without a acr setup. 

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18 hours ago, Live Liner said:

WOULD THIS NEED A 27 OR TWO STANDARD BATTERIES. AND WILL A 115 ETEC CHARGE TWO BATTERIES?

You don't have to charge two batteries at once, with a battery switch like start and go out on one it will charge that battery, on way back switch to the other, them when back at port you will have two fully charged batteries then switch both of them off. remember to always turn both batteries when you level the boat.

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13 hours ago, Sailah said:

There are other ways to do it but this is how I do it on my boats.  I run 2 banks, house and start.  I use a Blue Seas ACR and battery switch, which they conveniently package in one called an "Add a battery", I have the 120A version.  There are simple wiring diagrams to cover your boat.

 

All leads go to house bank except Etec, which goes to start battery.  When any battery voltage is below 12.9V (or something close to that I forget exactly), which means you aren't charging batteries, then the 2 battery banks are completely isolated.  Since all your loads like electronics and live well are on your house bank, you can absolutely flatten that battery (although not recommended to take lead acid below like 40%) and your start battery will be tip top.

 

When the engine is running, or you are on shorepower, battery charger,  solar etc,  the ACR senses that battery voltage is above 12.9V and combines the 2 banks so the Etec is charging start and house.  Since it takes almost nothing to start an outboard, the start battery should always be 95% charged, and the excess charging goes to your house bank.

 

There are manual ways to do this with a simple $30 battery switch, when you are running engine, switch to ALL, drifting with livewell->switch to 2.  Engine start switch to 1.  As someone who grew up doing it this way, you'll forget and leave it on all when you shut engine off, run your livewell for hours and now you have 2 batteries that can't start the engine.

 

The ACR takes care of all of this for you.  You just switch your boat to ON and don't have to worry about anything.   It does have an override parallel mode so if you wanted to combine banks manually it'll do it.  I really love mine on my big boat and thinking about doing it to my Whaler with 90 Etec but I don't have loads other than 2 Garmins.  I run a group 27.  I also keep an eye on system voltage with my Garmin as well as a USB charger that shows voltage.

 

If you Google Marine How To ACR there is an excellent article about how this all works in detail.  I followed his advice precisely and it just flat out works.

 

Personally I would keep the group 27 deep cycle as your house and then pick up a small group 24 for starter.  I've been using Duracell Marine from Batteries Plus and they work well.

 

Or just keep a jump pack like suggested if you want the cheapest solution.  I think the Etec can be rope started too, at least my 90 I just bought came with rope starter.

This is the same way I have my boat set up. This summer I left the navigation lights on all week at the mooring. The boat started right up. Took awhile to get the 2 house batteries back to life. The ARC was key to saving the start battery.

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I'm back, turns out that E-tec motors 115 hp & up have dual charging systems. You have to purchase a AUXILIARY BATTERY CHARGING KIT. PN 5006253 from a Evinrude dealer.It's  a wire harness that plugs into a plug on the motor. Add another battery and a Perko switch a couple cables and your good to go.

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