Dimitrikaras01

Thoughts on a Gsb 120 1L

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16 mins ago, puppet said:

“ I also feel on those subtle takes it is better to not react to them until I feel the weight of the fish”

 

Hmm - you lost me on this one. I do quite a bit of “technical” fishing such as bucktailing rips, tossing plastics around bridges, etc. When a bass hits a jig, it sucks it in the vast majority of the time. So in my experience, when you feel that thump or light tick or see the line twitch, set the hook immediately & the fish will be there 99% of the time. 

Edited by vinnyb

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15 mins ago, vinnyb said:

“ I also feel on those subtle takes it is better to not react to them until I feel the weight of the fish”

 

Hmm - you lost me on this one. I do quite a bit of “technical” fishing such as bucktailing rips, tossing plastics around bridges, etc. When a bass hits a jig, it sucks it in the vast majority of the time. So in my experience, when you feel that thump or light tick or see the line twitch, set the hook immediately & the fish will be there 99% of the time. 

This is true in what I would classify as aggressive takes, but the more subtle takes, which can often be when you think you miss a fish or several fish repeatedly are the instances that I am talking about.  The next time you are on a bite and missing fish try doing nothing on strike.  They may be on really small baits and can be striking plugs and bucktails with a really light inhale....sipping...whatever you want to call it.  A hard hookset will often pull the offering right out of their mouth.  Better to wait a beat for the fish to engulf the whole offering and turn.  Sometimes  dropping the rod tip on strike can help on these subtle bites. On larger fish you may be pulling the offering right out of their mouth or preventing it from being drawn in.  I do not feel that striped bass are like trout and will rapidly inhale and spit a fly or artificial it does not consider food.  I tend to feel that on subtle bites waiting to feel the weight of a fish improves strike to land ratios.

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2 hours ago, Dimitrikaras01 said:

@GoneCoastal funny you mentioned the mb1083m, i used it a fair amount and it is a great rod. I understand the idea of cutting it down to 9-9’3, but i dont generally like rods less than 10ft. The blanks i have are 132 1Ls and was looking to cut it down to 120 

Is there a particular reason why you prefer 10 foot over a 9 ? I can tell you first hand that the casting difference is very minimal. I think working unweighted soft plastics would be better done with the 9 JMO. 

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44 mins ago, puppet said:

This is true in what I would classify as aggressive takes, but the more subtle takes, which can often be when you think you miss a fish or several fish repeatedly are the instances that I am talking about.  The next time you are on a bite and missing fish try doing nothing on strike.  They may be on really small baits and can be striking plugs and bucktails with a really light inhale....sipping...whatever you want to call it.  A hard hookset will often pull the offering right out of their mouth.  Better to wait a beat for the fish to engulf the whole offering and turn.  Sometimes  dropping the rod tip on strike can help on these subtle bites. On larger fish you may be pulling the offering right out of their mouth or preventing it from being drawn in.  I do not feel that striped bass are like trout and will rapidly inhale and spit a fly or artificial it does not consider food.  I tend to feel that on subtle bites waiting to feel the weight of a fish improves strike to land ratios.

Got it - thanks for explaining that. I’m rarely in situations like you describe but they do happen & good advice. Early season grass shrimp hatches come to mind. Anyway, sorry for the off topic stuff!

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15 hours ago, Dimitrikaras01 said:

@DZ thanks. In terms of sensitivity of feeling a weightless sluggo, how is it? Sorry for the rampage of asking questions, just have a blank that im looking fo build for this scenario. And im guessing this is dennis zambrotta by the name and profile pic?? 

It is not a sensitive blank at all. What it is is an extremely versatile work horse that can handle almost all conditions and a wide range of plugs/jigs. I personally would not choose it for throwing weightless sluggos, but that doesn't mean it wouldn't work.

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2 hours ago, GoneCoastal said:

Is there a particular reason why you prefer 10 foot over a 9 ? I can tell you first hand that the casting difference is very minimal. I think working unweighted soft plastics would be better done with the 9 JMO. 

Well i have the 132 1L and wouldnt want to cut two feet off of it, im not experienced enough and wouldnt know how much to cut off of each end to get the best 9 footer out of it. Another reason i dont really enjoy 9footers is because im a pretty tall guy, and the 9 is just small for me. I cant tuck in between my legs and if gets tiring holding it under my arm.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

It's a great rod and depending on guide layout and reel placement the feel an performance of the rod can be manipulated more easily as a result of its soft nature.   

 

It's a parabolic blank and as with all other rods, where the reel is mounted effects fulcrum point and also the rod's recovery which in cases where throwing unweighted plastics, could be an issue.  

 

That softness does alot for fishability in a few ways, in today's braid era the forgiveness monofilament offered to an angler helped in keeping fish attached longer.  While mono is rarely used anymore the softness of the 10L accomplishes a similar task in applying more steady pressure to the hooks and the fish instead of a stiffer action rod that serves as leverage for a fish to shake a hook.  I can attest to this as being a verifiable reason to fish a 10L.

 

While I cant confirm the validity of my next opinion, it's something I feel iv observed on nights when fish are notoriously striking short.  Once again braid dosnt alow for much give in the line to the fish and a stiffer rod amplifies that issue when fish are striking light and short behind the lure.  With a softer rod or mono, or both, those light short hits may translate Into full strikes and a few more hookups.  

 

Aside from technical reasons an theory it's just a super fun rod to fish.  I layout a few old style guides placed slightly further down the rod, i tape my reel on slightly further down the butt section which I find engages more of the blank and improves recovery dramatically. 

 

If you only had to have one surf rod it would be a toss up between a 10M or L though I'd venture to say a 10L is more versatile.

 

 

Edited by DeepBlue85

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Posted (edited) · Report post

This was a surprise catch in my local inlet this past September., GSB 10L, VS 200, 30lb braid. Took about 15 minutes to land.

 


 

 

168432FE-D4C7-48D8-93A2-1AF5E2EE99DD.jpeg

Edited by LowEnd
Bad pic

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The 1201L is a great rod. If you want a rod that Is durable, proven and versatile buy one I tried one for most of the year last year and picked up a blank to build this winter. 

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Can you get one already built or is it blank only? 

I have a vehicle that would be easy to transport a 10 footer in, sounds like a good match for a vs150 I recently picked up and it sounds like a great piece of gear. 

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4 mins ago, johnysmoke said:

Can you get one already built or is it blank only? 

I have a vehicle that would be easy to transport a 10 footer in, sounds like a good match for a vs150 I recently picked up and it sounds like a great piece of gear. 


The factory rod that’s built on the GSB 1201L blank is the GSB101LS.

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If throwing anything over 2 3/8 I'd say bump up to the M. But I loved my factory 1201L. If I could find a 9 or 10' surg and jetty I'd buy it in a heartbeat. 

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