Jump to content

Thoughts on a Gsb 120 1L

Rate this topic


Dimitrikaras01

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, Dimitrikaras01 said:

i will definitely be building it and giving it a go this season. Thought about pontentially putting a 200 on it. I have a 132 1M with a 250 that i love. I think a 200 would match this rod perfectly.

You won’t be sorry - it’s a great blank. And yes - the VS200 matches well with this. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Dimitrikaras01 said:

@GoneCoastal i would be throwing weightless sluggos, weightless gt eels, and probably a weighted jig no more than 3/4 of an ounce along with a soft plastic. How does it cast an ss darter? I feel like thats the most id do with it. Hows the sensitivity with a soft plastic around 1-3/4 ounce?

It cast a ss darter well. It will cast those weights ok. Don't expect super long cast though. For weightless I would use a MB1083m. As far as sensitivity goes it's ok. It's definitely not a finesse rod but you can feel a rattle trap, darter or a buck tail bouncing bottom with braid. Not sure about mono. Also if you do decide to go 120lL for what your doing build it cutdown to 9"-9'3" with a modern guide layout. 20lb braid and a 4500 slammer. It will be a little more parabolic then the full length and the 20lb braid will help with distance on the lighter stuff. This is how my river rod is set up and it's sweet. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been known to buy and sell numerous rods over the years lol.  Always searching for the "one".  That said, the uncut 1201L is one that I wish I still had.  Super versatile IMO.  I used it primarily for loaded redfins, ss darters, mavericks, and pencils to 2.5oz.  I still have a cut down 1201L (10" from the butt) that I use when I plan to throw mostly unweighted/lightly weighted soft plastics.  The full length can certainly do the job as well, but I find the shorter length more conducive to working soft baits throughout the entire retrieve.  When the bait gets 1/2-3/4 the way home, I like to drop the rod to the side and 10' can get just a tad unwieldly.

Used/use the full length and cut down in every application from boulder fields to sandy beaches to moderate current bays.  Never felt outgunned.

 

**sorry, just read your last post regarding 10'

 

Edited by FoliFish
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 mins ago, Dimitrikaras01 said:

The blanks i have are 132 1Ls and was looking to cut it down to 120 

I have a 132 1L that I built for myself years ago & it's one of my go-to's for the open beach.  I built it for its ability to throw small metal lips at the low end & larger pencils at the high end - it does both pretty well.  I'm curious if the cut down 132 1L would be the same as the factory 120 1L?  Not sure if the tapers are an exact match but it's possible.  Maybe a question for the guys in the rodbuilding forum.

Edited by vinnyb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 1201L is probably the most fun rod I own.  @Dimitrikaras01 I know you said you do not care about how fun it is for fighting fish, but you will probably change your mind once you fish this rod.  When you leash a fish to this rod, the rod really loads up and it just does all the work, it is fun!!!

 

This rod can handle a lot of abuse and larger fish.  When you say "can it handle 30# fish in current". It can probably handle it but it would not be my choice.  It also depends what you consider current.  The cape cod canal or breachway would not be a place to use it unless you want to toast large fish.

 

Really if I thought that class of fish were around I would only use stout tackle and take the sacrifice on sensitivity and distance.  A fish in that class is only C&R and I see little point in taxing them the way this fishery is.

 

In terms of sensitivity, it is more sensitive than a 1321m but not as sensitive as a modern blank with fancy graphite.  I would choose a 1201L or any GSB over a modern blank because they are so durable and great fish fighting tools that I can depend on.  Sensitivity is a bit overrated in my opinion.  I can feel enough with GSBs to know what my plug or bucktail is doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 mins ago, puppet said:

Sensitivity is a bit overrated in my opinion.  I can feel enough with GSBs to know what my plug or bucktail is doing.

Agree 100% - for most surfcasting situations. Although the OP is talking about unweighted plastics so sensitivity can be a factor. I’ve been on open beach sandeel bites where the take is very subtle & rod sensitivity was key. Not to say the 120 1L wouldn’t do the job in this scenario - it probably would. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take a look into the Ron arra and S glass as well.  The 1201L is a great rod and I use it almost every trip.  Everything has already been said in lieu of the blank.  Just build it and fish it.  You will become a believer and if ya don’t it can be sold easily. 

I know I am still a rookie amongst this crowd, so my words should be taken with that in account.  If DZ says it’s good, then it’s good.  It’s a blessing to have such minds in these walls.  


Seriously though test a buddies S glass out.  They are a thing of beauty.  Good luck with the build.

RC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 mins ago, vinnyb said:

Agree 100% - for most surfcasting situations. Although the OP is talking about unweighted plastics so sensitivity can be a factor. I’ve been on open beach sandeel bites where the take is very subtle & rod sensitivity was key. Not to say the 120 1L wouldn’t do the job in this scenario - it probably would. 

In general I employ a lot of lost and found in my retrieves.  As in allow slack and dead stick where often I feel nothing in the rod and just  focus on the line tension and slack. Sensitivity has no utility in those situations. I also feel on those subtle takes it is better to not react to them until I feel the weight of the fish.  A more sensitive rod may produce feedback that will cause an angler to pull the offering away. Again, the utility diminishes. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...