Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
J

Rust
Land Rover LR3 2008

20 posts in this topic

So, I've got my new ride which for all intents is in superb shape. I'm slowly figuring out all the bells and whistles and repairing what does not work properly.It has plastic rocker panel covers and I noticed a little rust on the sill of both rear doors where the sill meets the cover.

 

I took it to a reputable autobody shop for a quote. $1300 to take the covers off and fix the spots I saw and anything else they find under there. 

 

I expect to find little rust behind them and plan on taking them off myself before committing to the shop. In the old days, backyard autobody repair was easy to find and cheap. I couldn't find anyone local doing it on the side. I'm still looking as what I found is minimal and the quote too high for my liking.

 

3.JPG.e8e72851d097510021c1b3429896fcfc.JPG

 

That's what I'm looking at until I get that plastic cover off.

 

The vehicle is clean otherwise and a dream to drive. I have not liked a vehicle this much since my old Grand Wagoneer... 

 

Should I just spend the money and get it done or should I get a better look myself?

If this is all it is on both  sides, it seems like a lot of money to me. 

 

Yes, I changed the grill, I hated all that white plastic. 

 

 

5fef6f466c572_IMG_20201224_145354222(1).jpg.f8e05d2d082430e694f6a93eb389c200.jpgIMG_20201224_145339170.jpg.f2a2d2271c83a505d2c09a5c8a5c3afc.jpgIMG_20201224_145319847.jpg.495e6253f0995c2a37aedec7176fda1b.jpgIMG_20201224_145302661.jpg.80937853d1e7a97be056bdb7b16785b8.jpg5ff75423b3a2e_newgrill.JPG.a41d99087bdf5787eb5c10e6c25e21b4.JPGIMG_20201224_145246317.jpg.22504b137d846344ced58c6efcc243b3.jpgIMG_20201224_145229052.jpg.bfc15d79f43c5a7b8cad8584424947a1.jpgIMG_20201224_145154471_HDR.jpg.ee4a77e8ff1c6f65f66f4b2549434e4c.jpgIMG_20201224_145142452.jpg.97daa9d8f1a3086dc619ba8505a2a830.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it was me, when the weather warms up, jack it up and block it. Remove the cover, and get out the hose and wash the crap out of it. Once it is good and dry, examine the underside, scrape any loose coatings off and rough sand 

any found surface rust, then hit it with rust reformer coating and some rattle can paint. do the same on the exterior exposed areas, drive it and enjoy it.

no matter how much the body shop cuts out, it is still going to turn in to rust in a couple of years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, riggler said:

no matter how much the body shop cuts out, it is still going to turn in to rust in a couple of years.

The body shop pretty much said the same thing. "we'll cut it out, fix it but it'll come back a few years down the road"..... 

 

I had the same situation with my Grand Wagoneer in the late 80's. I had the rust fixed and it was good for 6 years. I drove it another 3 or 4 and then it went to the scrapyard with a rotted frame. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

When my kids no longer needed my 1999 trooper I bought new, I got to have it for a beach rig. It has never been garaged and and before i got it back it spent a few years in the berkshires in salt and mud (kid worked in the ski industry) and never got washed. My rear doorsills looked like yours about 6 years ago( i got it back 51/2 years ago) and even though im a welder (among other things) I didnt bother trying fix it. 

  Three years ago I put some time in to it...transmission work, so while i was at it i steam cleaned the underside scraped and wire brushed the frame and rust reformed and painted it. still is holding up to this day, though you cant guess what is going on where you cant see....

Those back door sills by then had some decent rust through holes in them

i picked out all the flaked stuff, washed the hell out of them, hit them with the rust reformer stuff, then painted them. In the time since (3 years 24k miles)

it has only gotten a little further, once a year I give a recoat. I think that having it open also helps the moisture from being trapped. It is buying me the time to finish wearing out the rest of the vehicle, lol.

Edited by riggler

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Every vehicle I have ever owned except for one, I have driven until it was time to junk it. This one will be no different. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found a guy up the road from me to do the repairs for "$750 at the most". If there isn't a lot to fix under the panels, it will be less.

The tool to remove the panels just came in when I got home.

When I feel well enough and the weather is dry, I'll remove them so I know what to expect. I'll send him pics with the panels removed so he knows what to expect as well. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

So, let's move onto the check engine light. Codes it is throwing indicate a mass air flow issue. Swapped that out with a new one but the light persists. I've run some fuel injector cleaner through it and I'm hoping that does the trick. 

Any other ideas?

Edited by J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  The first thought that comes to mind is always start with the simple stuff. Checking grounds, cleaning and checking battery terminals, running some electrical contact cleaner at the mass air flow sensor connector, and making sure you see 13+ volts with the engine running. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, J said:

So, let's move onto the check engine light. Codes it is throwing indicate a mass air flow issue. Swapped that out with a new one but the light persists. I've run some fuel injector cleaner through it and I'm hoping that does the trick. 

Any other ideas?

What are the codes?   Any noticable issues when driving? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Stryper Snyper said:

What are the codes?   Any noticable issues when driving? 

IIRC the codes are P0171 and P0174

 

It's running and driving like a dream. :shrug: 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, riggler said:

  The first thought that comes to mind is always start with the simple stuff. Checking grounds, cleaning and checking battery terminals, running some electrical contact cleaner at the mass air flow sensor connector, and making sure you see 13+ volts with the engine running. 

Been through all of that :th: 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Intake leak?  Weak fuel pump?  Clogged fuel filter?

I had a fuel line one time that the inside collapsed and starved the motor enough to throw codes.  Ran fine.  Hose looked fine on the outside.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back is out at the moment and I'm stuck inside until things let go but that fuel filter will be my next chore. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, yes, no on the throttle body, yes on the Seafoam and before that, a couple tankfulls with a can of injector cleaner.

Cleared the codes a couple days ago and I've driven about 70 miles since. Light is still off (for now). 

I'll be sure to use more Seafoam on a regular basis as a preventative if this lasts. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.