Kayaken410

Newbie pure building questions

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Hello all,

 

looking to get into pure building and turning plugs. Had a couple of questions. First, I bought a bunch of hardware and something didn’t make sense to me. The nose grommet and tail grommets don’t have the same diameter inserts that go into the plug. Is this okay?  Or should the inserted part be identical so that a single drill bit can be used to drill through the plug?  Or should I be using two different drill sizes (one for the nose and a different one from the rear) to accommodate the two different size grommets?

 

Speaking of drill bits, I purchased one online and halfway through drilling, it snapped in half. I was using the lathe to drill.  Is there a good bit mfg that someone could recommend?  Should I be drilling halfway through the plug, flipping it 180 and then finishing the drilling from the other?

 

And finally, I have a lot of left over mahogany scraps. Is that a good wood to use for plugs?  I read somewhere that pine is good as well.  If so, can i just use a piece of 2x4 from the big box hardware stores as a source of wood?

 

thanks!!

 

 

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Same diameter.  Tail grommets are usually smaller so they can fit into a tail weight if the plug calls for one. If you're breaking bits it's either the wrong style bit or you're pushing too hard.

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Also, with the tail grommet only one section of wire typically goes through where a loop and wrap are formed then cut off. In the front, the loop and its two sections of wire go through the grommet.

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You're on the right track with your building components.  I use mostly the same (from the same source).

 

20210119_044125.jpg.a5b689472e5a301f33c90261c8131080.jpg

 

 

Nose grommets & tail grommets: Nose grommet ID is made large enough to accommodate 2 thicknesses of 1/16" wire whereas the tail grommets need only accommodate 1 thickness.  Sometimes a Pic is worth a buncha werds.

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Use whatever dia that you're comfortable with for a thru hole drill size, open the diameter of the hole at the nose to a depth that accommodates the length of your nose grommet.  For me, I use a 1/8" bit for the thru hole because that's what the tail grommet OD is.

 

Drills - I don't know what you bought on line but it sounds like a right piece of schnitzel. Go to Cheap-o  Depot and get 6" high speed steel (the black colored ones) for starting your holes, get the 12" long bit to connect in the middle on longer plugs.  And that should answer your other question as well - Drill from the nose and the tail (flip 180) and connect in the middle.

 

Question for you:  Are you starting your thru-holes on your lathe?  If no, you will save yourself a ton of aggravation by purchasing a drill chuck for your lathe.

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Regarding wood species to use:  Mahogany is great for heavier plugs.  Box store pine (can) be used but it's not desirable because the wood is incredibly light, it's not terribly strong/dense and will get banged up quickly which brings us to water penetration and rot, which pine is good at. Pine is best for practicing your lathe skills, IMHO.   If you don't have access to cedars like Alaskan yellow cedar or western red cedar you can go to and woodcraft store or hardwood lumber dealer and get basswood, maple, etc. 

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

11 hours ago, extreme fisherman said:

For drill bits you want aircraft bits 6 inch with a two inch flute .. 

yes and 5/32 dia. That will accept you nose grommet snugly and remove chips often 

Edited by Steel Pulse

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H'Islander,

 

I think I understand now.  So if the nose grommet diameter and tail grommet diameter are different, it doesn't matter so long when I drill each end, I find the right diameter drill bit to match.  And since the 12" bit is just to finish the through hole, it doesn't make a difference as long as it matches the nose grommet diameter.  This will leave the tail grommet hole smaller or 
custom to the tail grommet OD.

 

For mahogany wood, which types of plugs are considered heavy plugs?  I'd like to choose one and practice making them until I get my technique right as recommended in an earlier post.

 

To all that replied, thanks for the responses.  Definitely helps to have this community to learn from.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Also, this was the drill bit that I used:

 

*

 

My guess is that I tried to push too hard and not clear chips which increased the torque on an already thin drill bit.

 

One more question: Should the grommets be an interference fit or should they be slip fit and then held in place by epoxy and the tension in the through wire?

Edited by TimS
Please don't post commercial links here - thanks.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

1 hour ago, Kayaken410 said:

H'Islander,

 

I think I understand now.  So if the nose grommet diameter and tail grommet diameter are different, it doesn't matter so long when I drill each end, I find the right diameter drill bit to match.  And since the 12" bit is just to finish the through hole, it doesn't make a difference as long as it matches the nose grommet diameter.  This will leave the tail grommet hole smaller or 
custom to the tail grommet OD.

 

For mahogany wood, which types of plugs are considered heavy plugs?  I'd like to choose one and practice making them until I get my technique right as recommended in an earlier post.

 

To all that replied, thanks for the responses.  Definitely helps to have this community to learn from.

 

Enjoy the ride, building became the most enjoyable aspect of my fishing, still is.  

 

Wood choice is probably the most rewarding part of the process short of testing your finished product. Little more influences the finished product than wood choice and in this way, choice is endless.  Knowing the attributes of different woods is the 1st step in deciding what you plan to build.  Plenty of others here can chime in but I'll add my two cents from the woods i have used. 

 

Most pines can serve multiple purposes, is moderately dense, turns easily but challenges the builder to achieve a smoothe body through the heavier growth rings pine can have.  Great anti-rot properties and heavy enough for subsurface lures when properly weighted...or surface lures in the same way.  I use pine for pencils, spooks and some Danny style swimmers but also serves as a good wood for trollers or atom junior style swimmers.

 

Cedar species have very different properties in themselves with ayc being preferred both for its anti-rot properties, smooth turning and ideal flotation for just about anything.  Many great builders (bill couch included) built in ayc...from darters to surface plugs.  Red cedar has a looser grain, is way lighter and more delicate but turns very easily and is my choice for surface swimmers.  

 

Mahogany is a special wood that's both dense and heavy but keeps a surprising amount of buoyancy.  It had the best anti-rot properties, turns smoothly and is probably the least likely to crack or splinter during or after the finishing process.  

 

Maple is hard stuff, super dense with a tight grain and has a hard time taking on sealer vs everything else mentioned and as a result can be more prone to cracking when the wood is exposed to moister and expansion an contraction start to occur.  It's very hard wood though and when sealed well make for excellent darters and needlefish. 

 

Birch is kind of a mix of attributes whereby the wood is easier than maple to work, takes sealer better and is stil hard and dense enough to use for darters or needlefish.  Some metal lips also utilize birch to great effect.  Theres a ton more info I'm probably not privy to.... 

 

Good luck an enjoy the process

 

 

 

 

Edited by DeepBlue85

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Of course, you know the next question, do all of you typically order online for wood or go to specialty shops?  The big box stores here only have pine, maple, and oak.  I have a lumber specialty store I go to but the pieces are pricey.  They have all sorts of cool stuff though imported from all over the place.

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As your just starting out I’d look for western cedar balusters 1.5x1.5” . They have them in like 6-8-10’ lengths at the big boxes . Can be had like 8$ a piece and they will make good wood for variety of plugs .. But not all them carry them so ya might have to go hit a few . Pine also good but will be more money  . Ya looking for little to no knots and good tight end grain . 

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2 hours ago, Wire For Fire said:

As your just starting out I’d look for western cedar balusters 1.5x1.5” . They have them in like 6-8-10’ lengths at the big boxes . Can be had like 8$ a piece and they will make good wood for variety of plugs .. But not all them carry them so ya might have to go hit a few . Pine also good but will be more money  . Ya looking for little to no knots and good tight end grain . 

 

That's what I started out with too.....just gotta digg through for a good piece.  The looks I used to get....

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Drill 5/32 diameter. That way nose grommet will fit snug. Rear grommet will fit in the 5/32 just fine. No need to drill with 2 sizes. 

Edited by Steel Pulse

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Posted (edited) · Report post

1 hour ago, DeepBlue85 said:

 

That's what I started out with too.....just gotta digg through for a good piece.  The looks I used to get....

 

 

Every depot I go in I always look . Last time i got there just as dude was putting like 10 new bundles on rack with forklift . I cut open like 5 bundle climbing on the rack sorting through like a 100 piece and left with like 5 good ones lol. Crazy part is i got like hundreds of blanks but can’t let them sit there . Neeeeed wood . I wanna say they were 10’ ers for 8$ . How could ya say no ?? .. def was getting ton of looks but fuuuk em.. 

Edited by Wire For Fire

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