Frede

Need Advice

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Any ideas on how how to get the butt out of the top.  The top is in good shape and I have another butt from the same model rod.  It blew up during the cast and there's 5" of the butt inside the top that won't budge.  After I shot the photo I tried to pull on the long piece sticking out but it broke off.  It's a Ben Doeer St Croix if that matters..  

   

rod1.jpg

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Just now, Africaster said:

Try to crack the inner piece longitudinally ... needle-nose pliers in a rolling motion ... Plan Bravo is a reaming file and patience ... good luck

That's exactly what I tried with the needle nose.....no luck, but plan "Bravo" sounds promising thanks.    

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Try putting ice on top and bottom of the rod section for a while it might contract enough to loosen it. 

Edited by Mark L

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3 hours ago, ASrod said:

Vise grips and a prayer? Rubber kitchen gloves?

Pliers didn't work unfor.

2 hours ago, Mark L said:

Try putting ice on top and bottom of the rod section for a while it might contract enough to loosen it. 

I'm going to give this a try.

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8 hours ago, Frede said:

Pliers didn't work unfor.

I'm going to give this a try.

I would also glue/epoxy something like a pencil in there. You could possibly use  the pencil to twist the broken piece out once the rod is cold enough. 

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10 hours ago, hobobob said:

Needle nose plier don't have enough gripping power.  Try something with more power like vise grip.

The photo makes it look like there's something to grip but what's sticking out is (was) fragile as paper.

2 hours ago, Mark L said:

I would also glue/epoxy something like a pencil in there. You could possibly use  the pencil to twist the broken piece out once the rod is cold enough. 

This could work as a strong connection is needed to the butt material in there.  Unfor that material is deep inside AND its locked in by the taper 

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Many thanks the ice did it.  I was able to gently get a pick in between the stuck piece and the top all the way around.  After that needle nose pulled the entire piece out. 

 

So now another question.  I have a butt from the exact same model rod (see photo - different logo though) but wont go all the way in the top and the finish is a bit ratty.  I may be able to force it to go a bit farther but prob wont go all the way.  Can I just use epoxy and push it as far as it will go and use the rod as one piece?

 

 

 

 

rod5.jpg

rod6.jpg

rod7.jpg

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Good to see the ice worked for you. As far as the other thing it’s not my rod, I don’t have the experience to give you good advice. Hopefully someone can answer your question. 

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3 hours ago, Mark L said:

Good to see the ice worked for you. As far as the other thing it’s not my rod, I don’t have the experience to give you good advice. Hopefully someone can answer your question. 

No worries Mark and thanks for the ice suggestion.  I always seem to wind up in uncharted waters lol.  I guess the epoxy would be tantamount to a Hail Mary.

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Not surprising butts are mated together with tops from two piles of blanks by hand for proper fit, each blank, either side are not exact copies of each other. You need a depth of 6 times butt blank diameter overlap in the ferrule to ensure the pieces will have the strength to use reliably, so if the male side was say 3/8 inch in diameter you would need it to go 18/8, or 2 1/4 inches into the ferrule to have the strength you need. Than it needs to not wobble,  rattle, or feel loose while casting.

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With the formula I have the depth, but when shaken there's an audible "tick" from the connection.  That is without pushing it in with too much pressure and w/o epoxy, but I need to realize the rod gave me 25+ years.        

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