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Charlie Graves and Snap Swivels

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1 hour ago, cheech said:

2DDED81B-5E95-4DE3-80D6-15DBBE9D535D.jpeg

  I used to do what the photo suggests. I regret to say it didn't work for me. I stopped using that method because as shown in both of the above examples  the lures are going to bind as they "swim". The compartment the lure rides in is just too small to accommodate free movement. I found that if you can push the clip so that it touches the back of the mounting hole and there is still room between the cross bar and the front of the tin in MOST cases they won't bind. That "rule of thumb" eliminated many of the tins I wanted to use not to mention the "wrestling match" of getting tins on and off.

  In addition the pointed shape of the apex of the lure compartment has always been a discussion point as to whether it restricts lure movement. With tins especially the thickness of the tin riding in the pointed apex of the clip is going to negatively effect the amount of swimming action the lure will have. One might ask isn't the same thing true of lures other than tins? I have found that lures other than tins use either through wire or screw eyes and as long as they are not equipped with large split rings the binding effect is negligible if not non existent.

Marc   

  

 

 

Edited by mml4

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I'd like to try solid rings.  What sizes u guys using?

 

Was also thinkin about making a ring with steel leader & a crimp.   

I'd like to be able to tie directly or a loop knot and not worry about it fraying in the grommet.  I really like how Dan Tinman's tins are grommetless and have a wire loop attachment point.    These are @Dan Tinman lures.  He will do them in tin.  But he really needs to offer a 3/4oz (ish) size!  Same with the eel rigging jig!!  :waah: fullsizeoutput_d6_1024x1024.jpeg.d8dda5cc2d5d48cc9de99c0d01f9d48c.jpeg

 

I know CG is all about rotation and speed. I'm a slow and low kinda fisherman.  I don't rush things. When I rush things I'm prone to missing little things which leads to failures.   

  We all find our ways that work best for us. 

Edited by PSegnatelli

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On 11/25/2020 at 6:59 AM, sytheteacher said:

What I have been doing with tins and  metal lures where their bodies are very thick is attach a twelve inch piece of ninety pound test wire lead material using a crimp and swivel on the opposite end of the leader..  

Hand crimper or bench crimper?    Either way this is genius and I wish I thought of this a long time ago 

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I wanted to reply on this thread relating some of my experiences. I can not trust the Owner welded snaps that were mentioned(I didn't see them recommended here...just shown). I've snapped them just tightening down on my leader...yikes!

 

I like the Owner Hyper Crosslock Snap so far. Size 1 I believe. Just ended up using them, they worked and so far so good. Knocks on wood... FYI: Size 1 is 79lb, size 2 is 98lb

 

Below is for CG tins exclusively. (I typically use clips and sometimes tie direct for everything else)

 

Install the Owner snaps onto all CG tins ahead of time. 1 per tin. Then take pliers or vice grips and lightly crimp the remaining ends/hooks of the snap. I consider this permanent. I don't remove them. Gives ME more confidence. Still need to check it after using and catching of course. I suppose I would remove only if I found reason to use a different lb test or manufacturers snap, different method, etc. As of now, I don't need to.

 

IMO, this also can prevent user error, if needed (still have to tie a knot, lol). No constant opening and closing of the clip. Since I believe such does weaken the metal.

 

Instead of using the snap to quickly change my lure, I retie each time to my tin of choice. It takes seconds to tie a uni knot, improved clinch, Palomar, etc. 

 

If you don't like clips and splits on these l, like myself, you can use a rosco or owner snap. Up to you if you want to use 1 snap for each leader you tie or use 1 snap for each tin as mentioned above.  

 

Hope this helps someone, tight lines!

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I did a photo how to on fixing a split ring a while ago. Not good at IPhone tricks, but look up split ring with me as the poster. It’s not hard to reshape spread split rings

 

Edit: just found it posted January 21 2019. Somebody find it and post it again. I had it bookmarked in my PC but a spilt cup of coffee ended that relationship a year ago

Edited by Stewie
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On 7/25/2021 at 9:09 AM, mml4 said:

  I used to do what the photo suggests. I regret to say it didn't work for me. I stopped using that method because as shown in both of the above examples  the lures are going to bind as they "swim". The compartment the lure rides in is just too small to accommodate free movement. I found that if you can push the clip so that it touches the back of the mounting hole and there is still room between the cross bar and the front of the tin in MOST cases they won't bind. That "rule of thumb" eliminated many of the tins I wanted to use not to mention the "wrestling match" of getting tins on and off.

  In addition the pointed shape of the apex of the lure compartment has always been a discussion point as to whether it restricts lure movement. With tins especially the thickness of the tin riding in the pointed apex of the clip is going to negatively effect the amount of swimming action the lure will have. One might ask isn't the same thing true of lures other than tins? I have found that lures other than tins use either through wire or screw eyes and as long as they are not equipped with large split rings the binding effect is negligible if not non existent.

Marc   

  

 

 

Use Bell-Shaped Lure Snaps. 614276eab48e6_Screenshot2021-09-156_42_03PM.png.2f35a11e477bc76fea6c9dd747401cd6.png614276e6a1167_Screenshot2021-09-156_42_18PM.png.dc07c2e249792e55dd88953fbf06cd62.png

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On 7/23/2021 at 10:14 PM, mml4 said:

Fellow SOL member SC spoke about an old school way of rigging tins with wire. I took that idea and used .051 through wire. The object was to be able to use TA clips  on tins . I call them "dog bones". I also have used them on 8/0 forged Mustad hooks which I use in  bucktails. That size Mustad is next to impossible to attach to a TA clip.

I am able to do 3 different size loops and they don't bind. A J7 swims like a Bomber when using a TA clip and a "bone" in it's nose.

Marc

IMG_0018.jpg

 

On 7/23/2021 at 10:14 PM, mml4 said:

Fellow SOL member SC spoke about an old school way of rigging tins with wire. I took that idea and used .051 through wire. The object was to be able to use TA clips  on tins . I call them "dog bones". I also have used them on 8/0 forged Mustad hooks which I use in  bucktails. That size Mustad is next to impossible to attach to a TA clip.

I am able to do 3 different size loops and they don't bind. A J7 swims like a Bomber when using a TA clip and a "bone" in it's nose.

Marc

IMG_0018.jpg

Now this is an excellent idea... I never thought of but will start using it... 

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