Pescador710

Yak casting rod recommendations with specific needs

24 posts in this topic

Well I cracked my “all purpose” casting rod while trying to finagle my jig out of a snag. This rod was an 8ft Daiwa swimbait (largemouth Bass) rod with a few inches hacked off the butt. It actually performed pretty well but wanted to hear from some of you before I make another purchase.

 

Here’s what I’m looking for:

An “all-purpose” inshore New England kayak casting rod.

7’6” to 8’

1-6 oz range

 

This is actually similar to what Slappy prefers for his bass whooping stick (or so I’ve read) but I’m trying not to break the bank with a $400+ Custom rod. But this rod will be asked to do it all- dropping weight n’ bait to scup, jiggling jigs in front of fluke, casting 5 oz plugs into the boulders, prying tog out of crevices, trolling tube n’ worm, and perhaps fending off sea monsters. I know it will not be the perfect set up for all those things but I would like it to be able to do all those things reasonably while excelling at casting the 2-4 oz range.

 

The reasonably cheap Daiwa Bass swimbait rod fit the bill pretty well but it didn’t handle casting 40lb braid well. I would drop to 30 but I have a bulk spoil of 40. It also liked to get the line wrapped around the guides toward the tip but that might be more of a me issue. 
 

I’m open to trying a swimbait rod again but I am pretty unfamiliar with that market and casting rods in general. 
 

Any suggestions?

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I cant recommend a rod because I build all of mine but I fish for all of those with a mod-fast 15-40 pound rod. ( except for tog not because i can i just havent had the chance but i will be using it for tog as soon as I get out front)

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8 seems long, most kayakers prefer 7 or even shorter. You really have to high stick an 8 to net your fish!  I'll suggest the tried and true $80 Ugly Stik Tiger Elite Medium. It and it's predecessor the Lite are aboard a LOT of kayaks. The thing about a kayak casting rod is you don't need to cast far, you're already where the fish are. I use mine for casting trolling and jigging. And need I say it's supposedly unbreakable...

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Black hole charter special 73Mh sounds like it would fit the bill quite nicely..

I know your saying 7'6-8', but this rod is only 7'3... which, IMHO, is longer than I would use on the kayak.. I prefer a shorter rod in the kayak, but maybe that's just me.. 

 

It's available standard conventional or acid wrapped..

 

It will do all of the things you've listed above 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

+1 on the ugly stick. Also agree 7 foot rod is long enough.  I would not spend too much money on a kayak  rod. If you are surf launching they will take a beating, I also like the one piece rods, 

Edited by dbjpb

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For whatever reason all my newer uglies have not held up to the salt. Corrosion on guides, etc, while the older ones are still kicking .. as the price has crept up, no mas.. the inshore selects??  were the worst. ymmv. Sad because I loved the action as it made it easy to fight a fish with wind blowing the yak around 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Thanks for the input so far guys. 
 

I do use a ugly stik tiger lite as my utility/backup stik. Most of the time it stays in the car but when I’m snagging/catching bait and livelining, or togging it is on the boat. And it will fill the gap for my last few trips of the year. But I usually carry only 2, the all purpose bait caster and a 1/2- 2 oz spinning rod.

 

I am stubborn on the length. I have used 6’6” and 7’ rods and still prefer the 7’6” to 8’ length especially for the do-it all rod. I haven’t had an issue netting/landing (but it would be a little more comfortable with a short rod) and do like the casting ability of a wider range of lure weights with a longer rod especially in boulder fields that I don’t want to risk damage or disturbing fish.


I’ll check out the black hole but keep the suggestions coming...

 

Edited by Pescador710

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I guess I've been doing this to long, I have no interest in buying a rod that will not get the job done and will not be there, or fail when the fish of a lifetime grips my hook. I see no value in replacing broke, cheap, poorly designed rods, over and over again, after paying all that money to get there and fish, for instance when I have flown into an area 300 miles from the closest rod shop, I better have the right gear with me, a and not wasting my time/money being not as productive as I could be. A backup rod does you no good in the rig, I buy one rod that gets it done so I don't need to buy two rods, reels, line, etc. If you are getting braid loops, don't put up with it, build, or buy a rod that won't do that, buy a stiffer braid, etc. The value/money/effort you put out in fishing doesn't stop at the store counter. I have been fishing braid since 1994, I have had only one looped guide, after that I figured out why it did that and fixed the rod so it wouldn't happen again. I'm not saying I don't have a backup rod when I get in the boonies, it's just not a lesser quality rod and it's with me. A Lamiglas BL,  United Composites, Calstar Grafighter, etc. will all hold up to kayak conditions better than most with the proformance you want.

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20 hours ago, Pescador710 said:

Well I cracked my “all purpose” casting rod while trying to finagle my jig out of a snag. This rod was an 8ft Daiwa swimbait (largemouth Bass) rod with a few inches hacked off the butt. It actually performed pretty well but wanted to hear from some of you before I make another purchase.

 

Here’s what I’m looking for:

An “all-purpose” inshore New England kayak casting rod.

7’6” to 8’

1-6 oz range

 

This is actually similar to what Slappy prefers for his bass whooping stick (or so I’ve read) but I’m trying not to break the bank with a $400+ Custom rod. But this rod will be asked to do it all- dropping weight n’ bait to scup, jiggling jigs in front of fluke, casting 5 oz plugs into the boulders, prying tog out of crevices, trolling tube n’ worm, and perhaps fending off sea monsters. I know it will not be the perfect set up for all those things but I would like it to be able to do all those things reasonably while excelling at casting the 2-4 oz range.

 

The reasonably cheap Daiwa Bass swimbait rod fit the bill pretty well but it didn’t handle casting 40lb braid well. I would drop to 30 but I have a bulk spoil of 40. It also liked to get the line wrapped around the guides toward the tip but that might be more of a me issue. 
 

I’m open to trying a swimbait rod again but I am pretty unfamiliar with that market and casting rods in general. 
 

Any suggestions?

I think you should wrap your own blanks this winter.  I use Gusa series from United Composites. You can buy it at Charkbait.  Price has gone up.  My blanks are 4 years old.  You get what you pay for.   One of the lightest and strongest blanks on the market. 
 

I will be totally honest with you.  I have 4 blanks all wrapped from 7-8' to toss plugs up to 8oz, like the bigger GRS plugs...you know where those rods are at?  Stuck on the rack collecting dust along with all the plugs also collecting dust. Its because bass don't feed the same in my home waterS like they did years ago. For the best Bass bass fishing in my area its a night time game tossing weightless plastics and. 3/4oz jig heads with Big home poured plastic weighing a total of 2-3oz. For me its 1-4oz blanks and 1-3oz blanks to get the same quality Bass I did years ago its just with lighter stuff.  I still have my larger plug rods on stand by....only you know your home waters. 
 

 

 

 

62E39ABD-EB78-423D-A358-5F207F414547.png

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I had to dig up a video from 2013. This was the "Height" of Large Striped Bass crashing plugs in my area. In this video I was casting a GRS mack troller (8oz) into huge bass blasting Macks. I have not seen that type of action since 2014-2015. I started to see it in 2008 and now it does not really happen anymore.  Could be less bass numbers now or there is so much bait it just does not happen.  I had two Calstars graphfighter series that could toss the heavy plugs without issue.

 


I know I am getting off topic here but the point is having a do all rod does not exist.  Not for me.  Patterns Change. 

Edited by The Riddler

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1 hour ago, The Riddler said:

I think you should wrap your own blanks this winter.  I use Gusa series from United Composites. You can buy it at Charkbait.  Price has gone up.  My blanks are 4 years old.  You get what you pay for.   One of the lightest and strongest blanks on the market. 
 

I will be totally honest with you.  I have 4 blanks all wrapped from 7-8' to toss plugs up to 8oz, like the bigger GRS plugs...you know where those rods are at?  Stuck on the rack collecting dust along with all the plugs also collecting dust. Its because bass don't feed the same in my home waterS like they did years ago. For the best Bass bass fishing in my area its a night time game tossing weightless plastics and. 3/4oz jig heads with Big home poured plastic weighing a total of 2-3oz. For me its 1-4oz blanks and 1-3oz blanks to get the same quality Bass I did years ago its just with lighter stuff.  I still have my larger plug rods on stand by....only you know your home waters. 
 

 

 

 

62E39ABD-EB78-423D-A358-5F207F414547.png

I actually have taken a peak at United composites and they look and sound awfully nice. If I had all the time and money in the world, I’d probably wrap myself a RUS 80 Mega blank; 2-3” off the butt, spiral wrapped to handle 30-50lb braid. 

 

But reality is my next expensive yak purchase will be a dry suit and I got lots of house projects that have been neglected during the season. So I need something ready to go that won’t kill my wallet.

 

Again, I know I can’t get the perfect for everything rod. But there are rods that can throw 3/4 oz jig +big plastic and 5.5 oz plugs both rather decently. Weightless plastics and 8 oz trollers, on the other hand, definitely not.

 

My mentality for the rod is I want something that is good with the 3/4 to 2 1/2 oz jig + plastic but can hack it at the other stuff. Including: livelining, tube n worm, casting 2-6 oz wood/plastic plugs, 2+ oz bucktailing for fluke/sea bass, weight n bait for scup and tautog jigs/rigs. Anything lighter is handled by spinning rod, anything heavier and I’ll buy a boat lol.

 

Anyway thanks for the input, the search continues...

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Posted (edited) · Report post

For what you are describing I have a bunch of rods to do all of those tasks and still make a small sea bass fun.  Good luck in your search. 

Edited by The Riddler

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1 hour ago, The Riddler said:

For what you are describing I have a bunch of rods to do all of those tasks and still make a small sea bass fun.  Good luck in your search. 

Just curious, what blanks you use for jig+ plastics? And if you could, a brief description of the build. Just to give me ideas for the day I do have the time and money

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Just now, Pescador710 said:

Just curious, what blanks you use for jig+ plastics? And if you could, a brief description of the build. Just to give me ideas for the day I do have the time and money

For Striped Bass? Fast action to Extra Fast Action Tips.  I call it swigging.  Swim jigging and its shallow under 20'.  I am a terrible deep water Striped Bass up and down jigger.  I prefer shallow. It can be a challenge to swig fussy striped bass. The less rod tip movement the better. Every year I learn something and have to do something new to score fussy Bass...always network with others who are doing the same thing....For Sea bass its a light action moderate tip , up down action , another ball game compared to striped bass...need a blank that makes a 2lb sea bass fun but can still "Jig" 1-2oz up and down. 
 

For all your Rod Building questions you need to go to the rod building forum here and search.

 

good luck

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