blackdogfish

DeWalt table saw DW744 10".... Recommend a feather board?

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OK you pro carpenters.

I picked up a used DeWalt DW 744, ten inch table saw. Looking for a feather board(s).  Several of the major units get bad reviews for DeWalt saws because they don't fit well in the miter gauge slots  (don't tighten up adequately). Can anyone recommend a featherboard that locks down well on a DeWalt?

Thanks.

Edited by blackdogfish
My spell-check is insane and trying to take over my life

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Hi Joseph!

 

How are things in VT?

 

That 744 is a good jobsite saw.  We've used the 745s on a daily basis at customer sites for years with no problems.  I recently cobbled together a great 744 with the DeWalt stand (no wheels on it, but super sturdy) for short $$ and I love it.  (FWIW, the factory miter gauges should just be thrown away as step 1 in setting up those saws IMO.)

 

Anyway, your question got me thinking about the slop in in the miter gauges on my TSs, so I checked the miter slots on both of my 744s (aluminum tables) and on one of my delta TSs (machined iron table).  To my surprise, the difference was very small when I did I did a very quick sampling of two measurements each on the left side rails of all three saws, at a max of 0.03" or 1/32" between the older 744 and the Delta, which dropped to 0.022" between the newer (but still well used) 744 and the Delta.

 

After a quick look at Lumberjocks and Sawmillcreek, there are a couple of approaches for minimizing the slop, which would apply to featherboards or any other male rail, all of which assume that your slots are uniform and have parallel sides.

 

Buy a miter gauge (or other device) with built in adjustments for lateral play.  I'm not savvy about those, but the brand "Incra" was mentioned several times in the miter gauge threads, and they offer a number of adjustable miter slides.

 

Drill and tap your male rail to accept threaded adjusters, such as hex screws.

 

Dimple the side(s) of your male rails with a center punch, such that the raised area around the punched dimple takes up some of the slack.  Sand or grind the dimple if it's too tall.  (I think this would only apply to solid metal male rails, not hollow ones.)  Along this same idea is the notion of using a cold chisel instead of a punch, thus making horizontal "dimples" on the dies of the male rails.  

 

HTH!

 

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NP.  Happy to help a friend.

 

One thing I forgot to mention was using aluminum tape to take up some of the slack, which is the first of these swiped ideas that I plan to try ASAP.

 

All good here.  Staying safe.

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