jjdbike

Grip Studs 1800 vs 1500 w/ felt please?

Rate this topic

14 posts in this topic

Hey folks,

I know lots have been written about boots and studs, e.g. Bees Knees etc..

Where I fish I have no thick weed, bubble weed, Kelp of even thick slime. Just uneven / slanted polished rock w/ a some barnacles and some snot slime algae.

I'm buying new felt soled wadding boots (i.e. Simms Flyweight felt). I'm wondering if the combo of felt and the shorter carbide spike (i.e. 1500) might be more appropriate  than the 1800 which might be too high, keep the felt off the surface and be less stable.

Your thoughts?

JD

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

56 mins ago, jjdbike said:

felt soled wadding boots (i.e. Simms Flyweight felt)

I use the same boots and have them equipped with Kold Kutter studs and they work fine for me on the slimy stuff both fresh and salt. They are short so the felt works well in conjunction with the stud cutting/biting into the rocks...These are cost effective as well, 250 studs for ~$25! When they get dull just change em out.

 

Like you have mentioned, the taller stud may negate the effectiveness workIng with the felt. Another concern I’d have with the longer stud would be them pushing/digging into/thru the felt too deep that may compromise the footbed of the boot.

 

Going the Grip Stud route, I’d start with the shorter ones... Sometimes less is more!

Edited by Inshore

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 mins ago, Inshore said:

I use the same boots and have them equipped with Kold Kutter studs and they work fine for me on the slimy stuff both fresh and salt. They are short so the felt works well in conjunction with the stud cutting/biting into the rocks...These are cost effective as well, 250 studs for ~$25! When they get dull just change em out.

 

Like you have mentioned, the taller stud may negate the effectiveness workIng with the felt. Another concern I’d have with the longer stud would be them pushing/digging into/thru the felt too deep that may compromise the footbed of the boot.

 

Going the Grip Stud route, I’d start with the shorter ones... Sometimes less is more!

Thanks bud!

JD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
59 mins ago, Inshore said:

I use the same boots and have them equipped with Kold Kutter studs and they work fine for me on the slimy stuff both fresh and salt. They are short so the felt works well in conjunction with the stud cutting/biting into the rocks...These are cost effective as well, 250 studs for ~$25! When they get dull just change em out.

 

Like you have mentioned, the taller stud may negate the effectiveness workIng with the felt. Another concern I’d have with the longer stud would be them pushing/digging into/thru the felt too deep that may compromise the footbed of the boot.

 

Going the Grip Stud route, I’d start with the shorter ones... Sometimes less is more!

Please check your PMs if you get a chance.

Thanks again,

JD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
53 mins ago, Inshore said:

Going the Grip Stud route, I’d start with the shorter ones... Sometimes less is more!

Amen!

 

For several years I wore hiking boots (6" and low tops) with short (if I had to guess, I'd say 1/4 or 3/8" long) hex head aluminum screws in the soles for scrambling on the slimy, slippery AF rocks from Maine to RI (Had the rocks been round, one might use the term greased cannonballs.) and they worked pretty much OK at the time, other than learning the hard way that aluminum on dry rock is a low-friction exercise.

 

When I bought my first pair of Korker wading boots (about 5 years ago) I was very concerned about the short (~ 1/8" or less) studs.  I'd have bet a Benjie that they were gonna sukk on the slime- and algae-covered rocks.  Boy was I wrong!  I was shocked at how well they gripped, even when the rocks were draped with filamentous greenery. 

 

They were not much help in heavy bubble weed, but I have yet to see any footwear that pierces 2 or 3" of that stuff.  (I suppose that the river drivers' caulked boots could work.)

 

The bonus for me was that those studs were short enough to allow a lot of the rubber sole to contact the dry rocks, so no more rock-scratching!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I were you I would not buy the grip studs for felt soles. I made that mistake already. Buy the wearbar studs...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40 mins ago, levari said:

If I were you I would not buy the grip studs for felt soles. I made that mistake already. Buy the wearbar studs...

Thanks, Sounds like some good 1st hand info that I needed to know.

May I ask why? I’m not familiar w/ wearbar studs. What are the benefits of wearbar studs over Grip Studs?

Thanks in advance.

JD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

It’s the base of the stud. The wearbar has thin screw while the grip stud has a wide screw that doesn’t go well with felt.

6E0D2DC0-52C3-4097-8058-DB319F1E39C4.jpeg

Edited by levari

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used wearbars in felts on rubber boots and they have lasted a long time. I used loctite  on studs after I screwd them in and they were 1/2 inch length. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, levari said:

It’s the base of the stud. The wearbar has thin screw while the grip stud has a wide screw that doesn’t go well with felt.

6E0D2DC0-52C3-4097-8058-DB319F1E39C4.jpeg

Thanks levari! I wouldn't have know this otherwise. I think integrated washer on the wearbars would make them more resistant to rolling over in the felt. I looked up wearbarz and apparently they have some kind of new coating that makes them super corrosion resistant which is good. 

 

Am I correct in guessing that's the 1800 Grip Stud in that pic? The wearer look a tad lower profile than the 1800 grip stud but a tad higher than the 1500 grip stud. Am I correct in that assumption?

 

I liked the lower profile on the 1500 and thought the 1800 was too high for my needs (i.e. no bubble weed, kelp or any thick growth.).

 

14 hours ago, pete214 said:

I have used wearbars in felts on rubber boots and they have lasted a long time. I used loctite  on studs after I screwd them in and they were 1/2 inch length. 

Loctite is a great idea for added security.

Thanks!

6 hours ago, Reed422 said:

Check out rock grabbrz. I’m a bigger fan of spikes rather than studs.

Yes I like the idea of spikes but do you know how the profile / protrusion of rock grabbrz compares w/ the warebars and Grip studs (1500 & or 1800)?

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 mins ago, jjdbike said:

 I think integrated washer on the wearbars would make them more resistant to rolling over in the felt. I looked up wearbarz and apparently they have some kind of new coating that makes them super corrosion resistant which is good. 

 

Am I correct in guessing that's the 1800 Grip Stud in that pic? The wearer look a tad lower profile than the 1800 grip stud but a tad higher than the 1500 grip stud. Am I correct in that assumption?

Correct assumption. If I were you I would not add washers. I made that mistake too. You will drop spikes with the washers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 mins ago, levari said:

Correct assumption. If I were you I would not add washers. I made that mistake too. You will drop spikes with the washers.

Thanks bud. I meant it looks like there's a built in washer of sorts on the warebars.

As always, I appreciate you input. 

JD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, jjdbike said:

Thanks levari! I wouldn't have know this otherwise. I think integrated washer on the wearbars would make them more resistant to rolling over in the felt. I looked up wearbarz and apparently they have some kind of new coating that makes them super corrosion resistant which is good. 

 

Am I correct in guessing that's the 1800 Grip Stud in that pic? The wearer look a tad lower profile than the 1800 grip stud but a tad higher than the 1500 grip stud. Am I correct in that assumption?

 

I liked the lower profile on the 1500 and thought the 1800 was too high for my needs (i.e. no bubble weed, kelp or any thick growth.).

 

Loctite is a great idea for added security.

Thanks!

Yes I like the idea of spikes but do you know how the profile / protrusion of rock grabbrz compares w/ the warebars and Grip studs (1500 & or 1800)?

 

Thanks

No I’ve only used korker spikes, rock grabbrz on a few sets of boots and some bs studs that went into compass boots where I could of gotten killed. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.