foxfai

Leaky silcock, unable to remove

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I've been having leak with this silcock for a while. Perhaps it's time to tackle it.

 

So it's leaking from everywhere, just small drips. Because some moron painted it, I was not able to remove the whole thing or even part of it. Tried banging on it real hard and won't budge. 

 

I am afraid of breaking something else when i try to remove this. 

 

Anyone have a suggestion on how to replace this?

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IMG_20200529_174531691.jpg

Edited by foxfai

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What is on the other side of the wall?

You are trying to turn it right there in front of the flange thing on the wall yes?

 

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By the look of it with the hex nut it appears to be a thread on style piece. Might be just as easy to just turn it to remove. I can’t believe it would be that tight given copper pipe threads behind it. 

 

Years ago owning a home id replace the exterior hose bibs from soldered design to threaded. Made it very easy to replace as needed. 

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53 mins ago, Kml said:

What is on the other side of the wall?

You are trying to turn it right there in front of the flange thing on the wall yes?

 

There is another 10 ft pipe behind it with another shutoff valve. That one was leaking too but sorta fixed it.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

3 hours ago, Dave588 said:

Is the 10 ft pipe straight that you could remove connection at other valve and slide it out?

Perhaps, it's under some wood panel. I have to dig it all out and see that might be very possible. 

2 hours ago, giant basshole said:

If you don’t know how to sweat, call a friend or hire a plumber.

I know how to sweat pipes, with the close proximity to the base wood, is there are anything I can do not to burn it?

 

How do I cut the pipe if it's close to a 90 degree corner (wall and base)?

Edited by foxfai

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5 hours ago, saltfisherman said:

By the look of it with the hex nut it appears to be a thread on style piece. Might be just as easy to just turn it to remove. I can’t believe it would be that tight given copper pipe threads behind it. 

 

Years ago owning a home id replace the exterior hose bibs from soldered design to threaded. Made it very easy to replace as needed. 

Agree! Definitely appears to be thread style.

If it's not leaking at the connection point to the wall (which it doesn't appear to be), all you need to do is shut off the water supply to that line.

Open the top a little bit (as if you were to turn on the water). Use a crescent or pipe wrench to unscrew the hex bolt (directly underneath the handle).

 

Once unscrewed, you will have a rubber washer (held in by a screw) at the bottom that most likely needs to be be replaced if it hasn't been in a few years. You may also need to replace the packing nut on the inside valve stem.

 

I had the same issue years ago with mine (house built in the 50's) with same looking silcock valves and took them apart, replaced the rubber washer at the bottom and packing nut.

I now do this every other year and haven't had any water leak issues since.

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Pull it off the wall and peek behind it, you will see either threads or solder! You may have to loosen a strap or hanger inside. Worst case, cut and coupling inside where it’s easy to work! Clean the pipe before you cut it, slide it out, replace the silcock, pinch both sides of the coupling with a pliers, make sure it’s straight, and solder it back up.

Edited by cheech

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I think replace washers first. Just to see if it fixes it. 

If you do end up sweating pipe, i use scraps of concrete? Backer board(for tile) as a heat shield

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12 hours ago, layer8 said:

Agree! Definitely appears to be thread style.

If it's not leaking at the connection point to the wall (which it doesn't appear to be), all you need to do is shut off the water supply to that line.

Open the top a little bit (as if you were to turn on the water). Use a crescent or pipe wrench to unscrew the hex bolt (directly underneath the handle).

 

Once unscrewed, you will have a rubber washer (held in by a screw) at the bottom that most likely needs to be be replaced if it hasn't been in a few years. You may also need to replace the packing nut on the inside valve stem.

This. The old stuff was designed to be maintained, but the downside is it does need maintenance occasionally. When a ball valve leaks, it's toast. But a threaded ball valve is easy and cheap to replace, I have them on my bibs followed by a 90 deg elbow down to a Y connector, since I always have both a watering system and hose attached.

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22 hours ago, saltfisherman said:

By the look of it with the hex nut it appears to be a thread on style piece. Might be just as easy to just turn it to remove. I can’t believe it would be that tight given copper pipe threads behind it. 

 

Years ago owning a home id replace the exterior hose bibs from soldered design to threaded. Made it very easy to replace as needed. 

That's the whole point of this thread. I've tried rambo style to turn the silcock or the nut, no budge.

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