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Bikes for fly fisherman

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MaxKatt

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19 hours ago, saulean said:

The verge is also a good one. Disc brake cross bike with an integrated shock in the handle bar stem. Good bike for sure. I actually got a sweetheart deal on an s-works crux. Left over model from last year. Playing still with the handle bar height. Will cut the stem once I am satisfied.. Discs are a must especially if riding in rain / mud etc. The industry has come a long way technology wise, especially in the safety department. 

 

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My System Six. Fantastic bike but it’s heavy compared to my Izalco Max.  Discs for the road are really not needed.  Mtb gravel and  cx they are a must though. 
 

im currently looking for a cheap fat bike to rig up for the fall run.  It’ll make  the long walk to the hook a lot quicker lol. 

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5 mins ago, tomkaz said:

OK, back to the topic, more beach fattie photos

 

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Atta boy! Never rode a fattie, (the bikes I am referring to ). Unfortunately I am far from any salt water to bike to, so I duke it out with the deer at 4 am usually. One thing I will say, is that bicycle lighting / safety products have come a long way. I spent the money on a good head light, and the garmin radar / rear light, which picks up cars coming behind me and gives me a warning , and them a warning via a red blinking rear light. 

 

 

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3 mins ago, ridenfish said:

My System Six. Fantastic bike but it’s heavy compared to my Izalco Max.  Discs for the road are really not needed.  Mtb gravel and  cx they are a must though. 
 

im currently looking for a cheap fat bike to rig up for the fall run.  It’ll make  the long walk to the hook a lot quicker lol. 

A2DD3974-05D2-4362-BE90-1CC185414B53.jpeg

Nice sled! For whatever reason I did not love my old SuperSix.  Discs make a world of a difference in wet conditions. I've done a few tris in the fall on my old bike and it was pretty interesting having to brake hard to avoid fallen people. That being said, the crux is a cross bike, I just took the knobbies off in favor of road tires. 

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1 min ago, saulean said:

Let's table this and get back to bikes......

Push-button spincasting reel in the salt, turned upside down on what appears to be a heavy boat rod. Details...

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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5 mins ago, saulean said:

Atta boy! Never rode a fattie, (the bikes I am referring to ). Unfortunately I am far from any salt water to bike to, so I duke it out with the deer at 4 am usually. One thing I will say, is that bicycle lighting / safety products have come a long way. I spent the money on a good head light, and the garmin radar / rear light, which picks up cars coming behind me and gives me a warning , and them a warning via a red blinking rear light. 

 

 

I am daylight only but find that tech very cool, did not even know it existed but smart. How pricey?

 

Mine is a skinny fattie for the sand. Stock 4" tires that I down pressure to about 4-5psi makes them quite wide. But the real sharpies, with better rims that can sport them, will go up to 4.8" tires and wider forks. Pressure those down and you can even ride on sugar sand, something I cannot. Then again, the Mongoose is very heavy, the crate assembly is heavy and I weight 210, so short of balloon tires, soft sand gets walked over. 

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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I've only just started looking at the bike option, I have a Kona Stinky Six and a long travel hardtail - do you guys run into a lot of corrosion issues with the salt? I was thinking of coating my entire hardtail with Boeshield before attempting to use it like this...

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7 mins ago, saulean said:

Nice sled! For whatever reason I did not love my old SuperSix.  Discs make a world of a difference in wet conditions. I've done a few tris in the fall on my old bike and it was pretty interesting having to brake hard to avoid fallen people. That being said, the crux is a cross bike, I just took the knobbies off in favor of road tires. 

I’ve done plenty of time trials in the wet on my speed concept and had no braking issues.  I do use HED Jet wheels on it though, aluminum brake tracks are way better than carbon. 
 

You running tubeless on the road?  I’ve been on GP5000TLs for quite a while and will never go back to tubes.  

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6 mins ago, tomkaz said:

I am daylight only but find that tech very cool, did not even know it existed but smart. How pricey?

 

Mine is a skinny fattie for the sand. Stock 4" tires that I down pressure to about 4-5psi makes them quite wide. But the real sharpies, with better rims that can sport them, will go up to 4.8" tires and wider forks. Pressure those down and you can even ride on sugar sand, something I cannot. Then again, the Mongoose is very heavy, the crate assembly is heavy and I weight 210, so short of balloon tires, soft sand gets walked over. 

Not too bad, the rear light is 200, you need a computer to go with it which can be anywhere from 300-500. I have a garmin 520 plus that is paired with the light and the other wahoo sensors. It is easier for me to ride in the am before the kiddos wake up and before the aholes from my town come out in force with their super cars. We get a lot of CT traffic since they need to cut through to get the a major highway. The flashing light keeps the idiots away. 

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5 mins ago, stormy monday said:

I've only just started looking at the bike option, I have a Kona Stinky Six and a long travel hardtail - do you guys run into a lot of corrosion issues with the salt? I was thinking of coating my entire hardtail with Boeshield before attempting to use it like this...

The Mongoose is cheap and has a steel frame but I have had few rust issues. I hose if off and then soap brush scrub after every outing. I use an electric leaf blower to dry it and then a wipe down with dry towel. The chain is coated with Squirt after every cleanup and the gearing is shot with a dry lube spray. So far, so good. 

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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3 mins ago, ridenfish said:

I’ve done plenty of time trials in the wet on my speed concept and had no braking issues.  I do use HED Jet wheels on it though, aluminum brake tracks are way better than carbon. 
 

You running tubeless on the road?  I’ve been on GP5000TLs for quite a while and will never go back to tubes.  

Tubes on the roval wheels I have on now. They are decently wide so I have to run at least a 30 tire. On 700x32s now. Not the most aero setup but it works. Will get a second set of wheels, and go down to a 20# tubeless eventually. I had zipps on my tarmac for tris, the carbon clinchers, and the breaking sucked. Not doing that again without a disc, or aluminum tracks at the bare minimum. 

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1 min ago, saulean said:

Tubes on the roval wheels I have on now. They are decently wide so I have to run at least a 30 tire. On 700x32s now. Not the most aero setup but it works. Will get a second set of wheels, and go down to a 20# tubeless eventually. I had zipps on my tarmac for tris, the carbon clinchers, and the breaking sucked. Not doing that again without a disc, or aluminum tracks at the bare minimum. 

What pads?  Swiss Stop yellows are good in the wet but they are pricey.  

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10 mins ago, ridenfish said:

I’ve done plenty of time trials in the wet on my speed concept and had no braking issues.  I do use HED Jet wheels on it though, aluminum brake tracks are way better than carbon. 
 

You running tubeless on the road?  I’ve been on GP5000TLs for quite a while and will never go back to tubes.  

 

3 mins ago, saulean said:

Tubes on the roval wheels I have on now. They are decently wide so I have to run at least a 30 tire. On 700x32s now. Not the most aero setup but it works. Will get a second set of wheels, and go down to a 20# tubeless eventually. I had zipps on my tarmac for tris, the carbon clinchers, and the breaking sucked. Not doing that again without a disc, or aluminum tracks at the bare minimum. 

Now you guys are speaking Greek to my ears (and I am Greek...)

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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1 min ago, ridenfish said:

What pads?  Swiss Stop yellows are good in the wet but they are pricey.  

 

It has been long enough that I do not remember, we went through a few at the time to get the issue resolved. Switched to aluminum tracks and that was that. 

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4 mins ago, tomkaz said:

 

Now you guys are speaking Greek to my ears (and I am Greek...)

Lol.  
 

When I had a steel Independent Fabrication I bought frame fogger and treated it. There are little holes left over to let the gases out when they weld and you stick the tube in and fill the frame.  It’s a good idea if you’re fattie is steel. 

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